Sewing A Basic T-Shirt: A Step-By-Step Guide For Beginners

Sewing a T-shirt is a great beginner-friendly project. You can make your own pattern by tracing an existing T-shirt, or you can use a pre-made pattern. You'll need a sewing machine, fabric, thread, and some ribbing for the collar.

First, cut out your pattern pieces. Then, sew the shoulders of the front and back pieces together. Next, attach the sleeves to the armholes. Sew down the sides of the shirt, and finish off by hemming the sleeves and bottom of the shirt.

Choosing the right fabric

When it comes to choosing the right fabric for your T-shirt, you have a lot of options. Here are some tips to help you select the best material for your project:

Fabric Type

The most common fabric for T-shirts is cotton jersey, which is soft, breathable, and biodegradable. Cotton also absorbs moisture, making it a good choice for hot and humid weather. However, cotton T-shirts can be prone to wrinkling and shrinkage, and the colour may fade over time. If you want to minimise these issues, you can choose a blend such as cotton-polyester, which combines the benefits of both fabrics. These blends are soft, comfortable, quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant, and durable. However, they may be less breathable than pure cotton and may irritate sensitive skin.

For a more premium option, Pima or Supima cotton offers superior softness, durability, and resistance to wrinkling and fading. Ringspun cotton is another popular choice as it is softer and more durable than regular cotton due to its manufacturing process. Organic cotton is an environmentally-friendly alternative that is grown without pesticides or synthetic fertilisers and may even be softer and more durable than conventional cotton.

If you're looking for something more lightweight and breathable, linen is an excellent choice, especially for warm climates. It is strong, durable, and has excellent moisture-absorbing properties. However, linen can be prone to shrinking and requires regular ironing to maintain a crisp look.

For a more unique option, consider bamboo fabric, which is gaining popularity due to its anti-bacterial and moisture-wicking qualities, making it ideal for workouts. Viscose, a type of rayon made from wood pulp, has similar properties to bamboo and is also a good choice for activewear.

If you want to make a statement with your T-shirt, corduroy is a distinctive and durable fabric with a ribbed texture that gives it a vintage appeal. However, corduroy T-shirts can be heavy and less breathable, making them less suitable for hot weather.

Fabric Weight

The weight of the fabric, measured in GSM (grams per square meter), will also affect the suitability of the T-shirt for different weather conditions and activities. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are thinner and more breathable, while heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable. Mid-weight fabrics (150-200 GSM) offer a balance between breathability and durability.

Print Compatibility

If you plan to print designs on your T-shirt, consider the print compatibility of the fabric. Cotton and polyester blends, with a high percentage of cotton, work well with embroidery and offer vibrant colours for DTG (direct-to-garment) or DTF (direct-to-film) printing. For sublimation printing, which allows for all-over printing, you'll need 100% polyester or a polyester-spandex blend.

Sustainability

If you're concerned about the environmental impact of your T-shirt, look for sustainable fabrics made from eco-friendly processes and renewable resources. Organic cotton and recycled polyester are good choices for reducing environmental harm. Bamboo and viscose are also sustainable options as they are made from natural, renewable resources.

Cost

Finally, consider your budget when choosing a fabric. Fabric costs can vary widely depending on the type, quality, and brand. Compare prices and look for sales or value-for-money options to find the best deal.

Cutting the fabric

• Find a shirt that fits well. The easiest way to draft your own shirt pattern will be to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits well.
• Fold the shirt in half vertically, keeping the front sides out. Lay the halved shirt over a large sheet of paper. Place the fold of the fabric to each "fold" mark on your pattern pieces.
• Pin along the back outline. Pin along the perimeter of the shirt, paying special attention to the back neckline seam beneath the collar and the sleeve seam. Space the pins no further than 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
• Trace the outline. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire outline of the shirt. Trace along the shoulder, sides, and bottom of the pinned shirt.
• Pin along the front outline. Move the folded shirt over to a fresh piece of paper, pinning along the front outline instead of the back. Follow the same steps used for the shirt back to place the pins along the perimeter and sleeves of the shirt front.
• Trace the outline. Trace along the front outline just as you traced along the back outline. Remove the shirt and trace along the pin marks of the neckline and sleeve to complete the front outline.
• Pin and trace around the sleeve. Unfold the shirt. Flatten out one sleeve and pin it to clean paper. Trace around the outline. As before, insert the pins straight through the connecting seam. Remove the shirt from the paper and trace along the pin-marked seam to complete the outline.
• Add seam allowances to each piece. Use a flexible ruler and pencil to carefully draw another outline around the current perimeter of each piece. This secondary outline will be the seam allowance. You can choose a seam allowance amount you feel comfortable with, but as a general rule, using a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance should give you plenty of room to work with.
• Mark the pieces. Label each piece by part (back body, front body, and sleeve). Match the fold line of each piece, as well. The fold line of the front and back body pieces will be the straight, folded edge of your original shirt. The fold line of the sleeve will be the straight top edge of the sleeve.
• Cut and match the pieces. Carefully cut around each pattern piece outline. When finished, verify that the pattern pieces match one another. When you place the open sides of the front and back pieces together, the shoulders and armholes should match up. When you place the sleeve over the armhole of either main body piece, the actual measurement (not the seam allowance) should also match up.
• Wash the fabric. Wash and dry the material as you usually would before you do anything else with it. By washing the fabric first, you can pre-shrink it and set the dye. As a result, the pattern pieces you cut out and sew together should be more accurately sized.
• Cut the pattern pieces out. Fold the material in half and place your pattern pieces on top. Pin the pattern down, trace around it, and cut around each piece. Fold the material in half with the right-sides facing in, and keep the fabric as flat as possible when you lay it out.

Now that you have cut your fabric, you are ready to sew your t-shirt!

Sewing the shoulder seams

Now that you've cut out your pattern pieces, it's time to start sewing! Place the front and back body pieces together, right-sides facing inward. Pin around the shoulders only. Stitch straight across one shoulder seam. Cut the thread, then stitch straight across the other shoulder seam.

You should be able to use a standard straight stitch on your sewing machine for this.

Follow the seam allowance you marked out on your pattern pieces. If you're following this tutorial exactly, the seam allowance will be 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

Adding the sleeves

Step 1: Pin the sleeves to the armholes

Keep the shirt open and flat at the shoulder, but flip it over so that the right-side faces up. Position the sleeves right-side down and pin in place. Position the rounded portion of the sleeve against the rounded portion of the armhole. Pin the middle of both curves together.

Step 2: Sew the sleeves

With the right-sides facing down, sew a straight stitch along both sleeves, connecting them to the armholes in the process. The seam allowance should match the seam allowance you marked on your original pattern. If you're following this tutorial exactly, the amount should be 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).

Hemming the shirt

Step 1: Cut the T-shirt

Cut the T-shirt according to the pattern, ensuring you have the front, back, two sleeves, and a neckband. The front and back pieces should be cut on the fold. The sleeves can be cut as mirror images or on the fold, depending on the pattern.

Step 2: Sew the Shoulders

Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the shoulders using a stretch stitch. This will form the basic structure of the T-shirt.

Step 3: Attach the Sleeves

Open the shirt flat and pin the sleeves in, right sides together. Align the top center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam, then pin the sleeve ends to the armhole edges. Ease the rest of the sleeve into place and stitch it in place.

Step 4: Sew the Sides and Underarms

Fold the shirt right sides together, matching the sleeve seams at the armpits. Sew the underarm seam and side seam in one continuous line. This will give the T-shirt its shape and enclose the raw edges.

Step 5: Prepare the Neckband

Fold the neckband in half lengthwise and match the short sides. Sew the short sides together to create a loop. Then, fold the neckband so that the seam allowances are inside, and mark quarter points. This will help you attach the neckband evenly to the neckline.

Step 6: Attach the Neckband

Place the shirt flat with the right side up. Match the quarter points of the neckband to the corresponding points on the neckline, stretching the neckband slightly to fit. Sew the neckband to the neckline, being careful not to stretch the neckline fabric.

Step 7: Topstitch the Neckband (Optional)

For a professional finish, topstitch the seam allowances of the neckband to keep them flat and neat. Use a twin needle or a stretchy topstitch to allow for movement and flexibility.

Step 8: Hem the Sleeves and Bottom Edge

Press the sleeve edges and bottom edge of the shirt with spray starch to create a crisp fold. Then, hem these edges using a twin needle or a cover stitch machine. The desired length of the hem is up to you, but a typical T-shirt hem is around 1/2 inch to 1 inch.

Step 9: Final Press

Give the T-shirt a final press with an iron to set the hems and smooth out any wrinkles.

Frequently asked questions