Secure Sport Coat Buttons

Sewing a button onto a sport coat is a simple process that can be done by anyone and will save you the cost of a tailor. The first step is to choose a button that matches the others on your coat in terms of shape, length and colour. You will also need a needle and thread that matches the colour and thickness of the thread on the coat. Once you have marked the spot where the button needs to be sewn, you can begin. The process involves stitching through the holes in the button and the fabric, creating an 'X' shape, and then finishing with a knot on the underside of the fabric.

Choosing the right button

• Number and Placement: Sport coats typically have two or three buttons on the front, aligned at the bottom centre. Ensure your sport coat has at least two buttons on the front. When wearing a sport coat with two or more buttons, it is recommended to fasten all buttons except the bottom one.
• Colour: Opt for buttons that complement the colour of your sport coat. For a subtle and timeless appearance, consider neutral colours such as charcoal grey, taupe, or beige. These colours are easy on the eyes and go well with various other colours and styles.
• Size: Choose buttons that are proportionate to the size and style of your sport coat. Smaller buttons may be more suitable for a sleek, elegant look, while larger buttons can make a bold statement.
• Material: Consider the fabric of your sport coat when selecting buttons. For example, if your sport coat is made of a lightweight fabric like cotton or linen, choose buttons made from similar lightweight materials. On the other hand, if your sport coat is made of heavier fabric like suede or leather, opt for buttons made from more substantial materials.
• Style: Select buttons that enhance the style of your sport coat. For a classic and traditional look, go for standard buttons with two or four holes. For a modern twist, you can explore buttons with unique shapes, textures, or designs.

Remember, the buttons you choose should not only blend seamlessly with your sport coat but also reflect your personal style and the overall aesthetic you wish to achieve.

Marking the spot

Firstly, you should identify where the button needs to be sewn. If a button has fallen off, there may be a mark where the old threads came out. If not, you can use a light pen or pencil to mark a cross about three-quarters of the size of your button. This will act as a guide for your stitching.

If you are sewing a button onto a suit, you may want to choose a spot that is not visible from the outside. This can be done by marking the spot on the inside of the fabric, about three-quarters of an inch away from the desired button placement. This will ensure that your knot is hidden within the layers of the jacket.

Once you have marked the spot, you can begin the sewing process. Thread your needle with double thread, leaving enough length to work with (approximately 18-24 inches). Tie a knot at the end of the thread to secure it.

Now, you are ready to start stitching. Bring the needle up through the wrong side of the fabric and one hole of the button. This will create your anchor point. Stitch as you would with light fabric, going over a toothpick or spacer to create a small gap between the button and the fabric.

Remember to keep your stitches tight and secure, especially when working with thick fabric. You may need to use a thimble to protect your fingers when pushing the needle through.

Choosing the right thread

When sewing a button onto a sport coat, it is important to select the right thread. The thread you choose should be durable and strong, with the ability to withstand abrasion and needle heat. It should also be able to resist chemicals, mildew, rot, moisture, insects, and bacteria.

The first factor to consider when choosing a thread is its fibre content. Threads can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, wool, or linen, or synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, or rayon. Cotton thread works well with fabrics made from cotton and linen because they all shrink in the same way. However, cotton thread is not recommended for synthetic fabrics as it will shrink when the fabric does not, causing the seam to pucker. Polyester thread, on the other hand, is strong and durable and suitable for all types of sewing. It does not shrink or fade when washed and produces less lint than cotton thread.

Another factor to consider is the weight of the thread. For heavier projects like a sport coat, you will need extra-strong or topstitching thread. Topstitching thread is used for the decorative yet functional topstitching on items like jeans, denim jackets, and canvas bags. Extra-strong thread is a heavier-weight version of general-purpose thread, perfect for seams that will be subject to heavy stress or abrasion.

The type of spool is another important consideration. Threads come in stacked or cross-wound spools. Stacked threads work best with vertical spool holders, while cross-wound threads are better suited for horizontal spool holders.

Lastly, it is important to choose a reputable brand of thread, such as Coats & Clark or Gütermann, to ensure the thread's strength and quality.

Threading the needle

Firstly, you will need a needle with a big enough eye to accommodate the thread. A slim needle is generally better for this purpose. You will also need around 9 to 12 inches of thread, but if you want to double the thread for added strength, you will need approximately 18 to 24 inches in total. It is ideal to use a thread that matches the colour of the thread used on the garment, but if you don't have an exact match, you can use a light-coloured thread for light garments and a dark-coloured thread for dark ones.

Once you have your needle and thread, it's time to thread the needle. If your thread is thin, you can pass it through the needle and tie a couple of simple overhand knots to secure it. If you are using thicker thread or have doubled your thread for strength, create a knot by wrapping the thread around your forefinger several times. Then, roll the loops into a tight bundle with your thumb and slip the bundle off your finger. Grip the bundled loops with one hand and tug the long end of the thread tight with the other hand to form a knot.

Now that your needle is threaded and knotted, you can begin sewing your button. Mark the spot where you need to sew the button with a light pen or pencil. Make a cross that is about three-quarters the size of your button. This will be your guide as you sew. Insert the needle into the front side of the fabric about 3/4 inch away from your mark, stopping between the layers of fabric. Don't go all the way through to the backside. Work the needle over to the mark you created and bring the needle point back out through the front.

Create a small knot at your mark to secure the thread. Repeat this process a few times to ensure stability. Pull on the large knot to bunch up the fabric and expose the internal threading. Clip off the large knot and release the bunched-up fabric, allowing the tail of the thread to slip between the layers of the jacket, hiding it from view.

Now you are ready to begin sewing your button. Place the button on the fabric, lining up the holes with the mark you made. Push the needle up through one of the buttonholes from the underside of the fabric. Decide whether you want to sew parallel lines or create a crossed pattern over the button. You can use four strands of thread on the needle to sew through all four buttonholes simultaneously, which is more efficient.

Remember to keep the thread taut and secure as you sew. Continue sewing through the buttonholes, following the pattern you have chosen. After you have sewn through all the holes, tie a knot on the underside of the fabric to finish. This will ensure that the button stays firmly attached and reduce the likelihood of it coming loose over time.

Securing the thread

Begin by threading your needle with double the amount of thread you intend to use. This will give your thread extra strength. You should have around 18 to 24 inches of thread in total. Once threaded, tie a knot at the end of the thread to secure it. You can create a secure knot by wrapping the thread around your forefinger several times, rolling the loops tightly together, and then slipping the bundle off your finger. Grip the bundle with one hand and tug on the long end of the thread to tighten the knot.

Now, create an anchor point on the fabric to secure your thread. Start by inserting the needle from the backside of the fabric to the front, then move it a short distance—roughly the distance between the holes on your button. Bring the thread back through from the front side to the backside. Repeat this process one more time, perpendicular to the first stitch, to create a small "X" where the button will be centred. This "X" will serve as an anchor to prevent the thread from loosening while you sew.

Place the button on the anchor point and begin sewing by pushing the needle from the backside through to the front side and through one of the holes of the button. You can use a spacer, such as a toothpick or another needle, on top of the button to create some space between the button and the fabric. Sew through each hole several times to secure the button.

After you've sewn through all the holes, it's time to create a shank. The shank will stand the button away from the fabric, making it easier to button your coat. To do this, bring the needle up from the backside to the front, but don't go through one of the holes of the button. Instead, turn the needle slightly and bring it out from underneath the button. Wrap your thread tightly around the stitches between the button and the fabric at least six times to form the shank.

Finally, secure your work by putting the needle back through to the backside of the fabric and tying a knot. You can use a simple knot or add a few extra knots for more security. Cut off any excess thread, and your button is now securely attached to your sport coat!

Frequently asked questions