
Sewing a collar onto a T-shirt can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be a rewarding experience. The process involves several steps, from choosing the right fabric and pattern to cutting, sewing, and attaching the collar to the shirt. It is important to select a pattern that includes a collar and follow the instructions carefully. Additionally, trimming the fabric and seams appropriately is crucial to achieving a neat and crisp finish. While sewing, it is recommended to use a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch for extra security. Pressing the collar with an iron can help create a flat and crisp look. Lastly, attaching the collar to the shirt involves pinning, sewing, and pressing the collar in place, ensuring that it lays flat and symmetrical.
What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric for the collar
When choosing the right fabric for your collar, it's important to consider the style and purpose of your shirt, as well as the level of formality of the occasion. Different collar types serve different purposes and can impact how your outfit is perceived.
If you're going for a formal look, a spread collar is a great option. It pairs well with various tie knots and is perfect for professional settings or formal events. The cutaway collar is a bolder variation of the spread collar, with wider collar points that provide ample space for showcasing your favourite neckties or bow ties.
For a more casual look, the button-down collar adds a relaxed touch to your attire. Like the straight collar, it seamlessly transitions from casual to formal, making it a versatile choice for any occasion. The club collar, with its rounded points, also offers versatility and can be worn with or without a neckpiece.
When choosing the fabric for your collar, opt for high-quality fabrics such as combed cotton, pima cotton, or blends with modal or spandex. These fabrics offer better elasticity and durability, helping the collar maintain its shape and fit over time. Collar construction also plays a role—look for reinforced collar bands and double-stitched seams for better structural integrity and resilience against stretching.
Additionally, consider the colour of the fabric for your collar. Using the same colour fabric as the rest of the shirt will make the collar blend in, while choosing a contrasting colour will make it stand out.
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Cutting out the collar pieces
Firstly, choose a pattern in the desired style. Collars come in various shapes and sizes, and they are typically integrated into the design of a shirt. Working from a sewing pattern that includes a collar will help you achieve the best results. Select a pattern that suits your skill level. If you are new to sewing collars, choose a pattern labelled "easy" or "beginner".
Next, select the fabric you want to use for the collar. Your sewing pattern should indicate the recommended fabric type. You can choose the colour of the fabric for your collar. Using the same colour fabric as the rest of the shirt will make the collar blend in, while a contrasting colour will make it stand out. Pre-wash and dry your fabric to prevent shrinkage after the first wash, which could cause the shirt to become misshapen.
Now, use the paper pattern included with your sewing pattern to cut out the collar pieces. Cut out the paper pattern pieces needed for the collar. Then, fold your fabric in half, smooth it out, and lay the paper pieces on top, pinning them in place. Cut the fabric along the edges of the paper pattern pieces using sharp fabric scissors. Place the paper pattern on your interfacing and cut out one piece of interfacing for the collar. Cut around any notches included in the pattern pieces, as these will help you line up the collar with the neckline later. Cut slowly and carefully to avoid creating any jagged edges in the fabric.
Finally, iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of one collar piece. Place one collar piece, wrong side up, on a flat surface. Put the interfacing on top, with the adhesive side facing down. Cover with a towel or t-shirt and iron over the interfacing and fabric to connect them. Check the instructions for the interfacing to ensure you don't miss any important steps.
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Sewing the collar together
Pin the Collar Pieces Together
Place the collar pieces right sides together, lining up the edges so that they are even. Insert pins along the short edges and one of the long edges. If one of the long edges has notches, leave this edge unpinned so that you can line up the collar with the neckline.
Sew a Straight Stitch
Take the pinned collar pieces to your sewing machine. Start sewing along the first short edge and continue all the way around the collar until you reach the other pinned edge. Remove the collar from the machine and cut the excess threads. Be sure to pull out the pins before you sew over a pinned area.
Trim the Fabric
Use fabric scissors to trim the excess fabric around the outside of the stitches. Cut away the corners of the collar and make small notches into the fabric along the long edges. This will make it easier to press the collar. Be careful not to cut into the stitches.
Invert the Collar
Use your finger or the eraser end of a pencil to turn the collar right-side out. Reach into the collar and press around the edges with your fingers to push out the fabric, especially at the corners. Be gentle to avoid ripping the seam.
Press the Collar
Lay the collar on a flat surface and iron it with the iron on its lowest setting. Run the iron back and forth across the collar until it is flat and neat. If the fabric is delicate, place a t-shirt or towel over the collar before ironing.
Add an Edge Stitch (Optional)
Edge stitching the collar is optional but will help it hold its shape. Sew a straight stitch about 0.25 inches from the secured edges of the collar, but be sure to avoid the side that you left open.
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Attaching the collar to the t-shirt
Now that you have cut out the collar pieces and sewn them together, it's time to attach the collar to your T-shirt. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide:
- Pin the collar to the T-shirt's neckline: Line up the edges of the collar and the neckline of the T-shirt, ensuring that the right sides of both pieces are together. Match up any notches in the collar and neckline to centre the collar. Insert a pin every 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) along the collar.
- Sew a straight stitch along the raw edges: After pinning the collar in place, sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the collar and neckline. Position the stitch about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the edges. You may want to sew across the neckline twice for extra security.
- Cut off any loose threads: Once you've finished sewing the collar, carefully trim any loose threads to ensure a neat finish.
- Fold and press the collar: Fold the collar along the desired fold line, usually around the middle or near the seam. Then, use an iron to press the fold and set it in place. Place a thin cloth, such as a T-shirt or towel, over the collar if the fabric is delicate to avoid direct heat damage.
- Optional: Spray with starch: For an extra stiff collar, you can spray it with starch, which can be found in the laundry aisle of your local grocery store.
Additional Tips:
- Matching fabric: Use the same colour fabric as the rest of the T-shirt if you want the collar to blend in, or choose a contrasting colour for a bolder statement.
- Pre-washing fabric: Pre-wash and dry the fabric for your collar to prevent shrinkage after the first wash, which could cause your T-shirt to become misshapen.
- Ironing: If desired, add an edge stitch to the outside of the collar to give it a more finished look and help it hold its shape. Sew a straight stitch about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the secured edges.
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Trimming the fabric
Firstly, understand the different parts of the collar: the top collar is the outer part visible when worn, cut on the straight grain and interfaced for structure. The under collar is the inside part folded under when worn, cut on the bias grain for a comfortable fit around the neck, and typically not interfaced.
Now, let's get into the trimming process:
- Trim the Under Collar: Start by trimming a small amount off the short ends and long outer edge of the under collar (the piece without interfacing). Remove about 2mm (1/16 inch), tapering down to 0mm at the corners. This encourages the seams to roll towards the underside, neatly hiding them when the shirt is worn.
- Trim the Inner Collar Stand: Similarly, trim the curved ends of the inner collar stand, which is the part that sits against your neck. Again, trim by 2mm, tapering to 0mm at the corners. This will help the seams roll under, creating a neat finish.
- Raw Edges Matter: When pinning the top collar to the under collar, and the outer stand to the inner stand, ensure you bring the raw edges together. This makes your trimming more precise and effective.
- Symmetry is Key: Compare the corners of the collar to ensure they look symmetrical. If adjustments are needed, carefully unpick and resew a few stitches. Use a pin to gently ease out the fabric into neat points.
- Trim Seam Allowances: After stitching the upper and lower collar stands together, trim the seam allowances close to the seam line. This reduces bulk and helps the raw edge lay flat when turned right side out.
- Grade the Seams: To further reduce bulk and create a neat finish, grade the seams by trimming one layer narrower than the other. This is especially important if you're working with thicker fabrics.
- Smooth the Curves: Take the time to smooth out the curved ends of the collar stand, both before and after stitching. A blunt butter knife can be a useful tool for this step, helping to create nice, smooth curves.
Remember, these trimming steps are crucial for achieving a crisp and professional-looking collar. Take your time, and don't be afraid to refer back to these instructions as you work. Happy sewing!
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