Cowl Neck T-Shirt: Sewing Your Own Comfy Style

Sewing a cowl neck T-shirt is a fun and easy project that can add a timeless and elegant look to your wardrobe. A cowl neck consists of folds of fabric that drape from the neck, creating a scarf-like appearance. This style is commonly stitched in knit fabrics but can also be made with other drapey fabrics such as satin, chiffon, or Georgette. In this article, we will guide you through the process of sewing a cowl neck T-shirt, covering everything from choosing the right fabric to drafting the pattern and constructing the final garment.

Cutting the fabric

The first step in sewing a cowl neck T-shirt is to cut the fabric according to the pattern and your desired cowl neck depth. The cowl neck is a timeless and flattering look that can be added to any T-shirt pattern, and the process begins with cutting the fabric with precision.

To start, you will need to decide on the desired depth of your cowl neck. This will determine how low the neckline falls and how much the fabric drapes. Mark this spot on your pattern, which will guide your cutting process. Remember that the cowl neck consists of folds of fabric that create a draping effect, so ensure you allow for enough fabric to achieve the desired fullness.

For the front bodice pattern, you will need to make specific markings. Draw three arcs from the pattern's centre front, ending the uppermost arcs at the shoulder seam and the lower arc about two-thirds down the armscye. These arcs should intersect the centre-front line at a 90-degree angle.

Next, cut along these arcs from the centre front towards the seam lines, being careful not to cut through them. Also, create a hinge by snipping from the cutting line towards the seam line. This will allow for easier manipulation of the fabric.

Now, take a fresh piece of tissue paper and place it under your pattern piece. Draw a vertical line for the centre front and secure your bodice front to the new tissue, aligning the lower centre fronts. This will provide a stable base for the next steps.

At this point, you can begin to spread the pattern along the cutting lines, adding the desired length to the cowl neck. Swing the neck point away from the centre front until you achieve the desired cowl length. Tape the spread pattern securely to the tissue paper to maintain its shape.

Finally, draw a straight line from the neck point to the centre front, creating a 90-degree angle. This is your cowl line. Measure 2 inches above this cowl line at the centre front and draw a parallel line to create a self-facing. Cut along this facing line and then fold the pattern along the cowl line. Ensure you true the armhole, shoulder edge, side seam, centre front, and hem edge of your pattern.

By following these steps, you will have successfully cut the fabric for your cowl neck T-shirt, creating a graceful and elegant neckline that flatters your figure.

Binding the necklines

To bind the necklines, you will need to cut out bias stripes of fabric. The length of these stripes should be equal to the circumference of your neckline plus a seam allowance. The width of the stripes should be equal to the desired width of your binding plus a seam allowance.

Once you have cut out your bias stripes, stitch them right sides together to the neckline edge. Then, understitch the seam allowance and bias tape together. Turn the bias tape to the back and secure it with a whip stitch.

If you are binding a knit fabric, you can simply fold over the raw edge of the neckline and stitch it down with a double needle or a stretch stitch. Alternatively, you can finish the edge with a serger and then stitch it down.

For a more polished look, you can create a facing for your neckline. To do this, cut out a second neckline piece, excluding the cowl. Finish the raw edge of the facing piece with a serger or a zigzag stitch, then pin it to the neckline, right sides together. Stitch the facing to the neckline, then understitch and grade the seam allowance. Finally, turn the facing to the inside of the shirt and tack it in place.

Sewing the shoulder seams

Now that you have cut out the back and front patterns, it is time to sew the pieces together at the shoulder seams. Place the front and back patterns right sides together, aligning the outer sleeve hems and the shoulder seams. You will notice that the top edge of the front and back patterns are not the same size, but this is intentional as it is how the cowl neck is formed. Align the shoulder seams from the outer edge and stitch together. Press the seam allowance open and finish the seam edges.

For a single-cowl top, finish the back neckline as desired (facing, binding, or turned edge). Align the front and back shoulder seams, right sides together, and fold the self-facing along the cowl line, wrapping it over the back neckline so that the facing's right side is against the garment back's wrong side. Pin and sew the shoulder seam, catching the facing in the shoulder seam allowances. When finished, turn the facing over the seam allowances to its finished position, enclosing the shoulder seam allowances.

For a double-cowl top, sew the front and back together at the shoulder seams, matching the front self-facing to the back self-facing. Fold the self-facings in along the cowl line, wrong sides together, covering the shoulder seams. Either tack the edges to the seam allowances or stitch in the ditch of the shoulder seam from the right side, catching the facing.

Finishing touches

You may need to add a weight to keep the folds of a cowl hanging correctly. Sew a small pocket to the cowl facing and add a small weight. You can also add lingerie guards to the interior shoulder seams of a double-cowl top to prevent it from slipping off your shoulders.

Binding the sleeve hem

The sleeve hem is marked 9 inches down from the shoulder seam. Open up the bodice and bind 18 inches on either side of the shoulder seam. Turn the binding to the back and whipstitch in place.

To bind the sleeve hem, you will need to cut out bias stripes of fabric. Check online for instructions on how to make bias tape. Stitch the bias tape right sides together to the sleeve hem edge. Then, under stitch the seam allowance and bias tape together and turn the bias tape to the back. Finally, whip stitch it in place.

When binding the sleeve hem, it is important to ensure that the fabric is cut on the bias grain. This will allow the fabric to drape properly and create a flattering cowl neck effect. The amount of fabric needed will depend on whether you are cutting it on the bias grain or the straight grain. For the bias grain, you will need about 2.5 times more fabric than if you were cutting it on the straight grain.

Additionally, pay attention to the type of fabric you are using. Fabrics such as knit, satin, Georgette, chiffon, and crepe work well for a cowl neck style as they drape nicely. Avoid heavy and stiff fabrics as they are not suitable for this pattern.

Sewing the side seams

Now that you have your cowl neck t-shirt cut out and ready, it's time to sew the side seams. This process will vary slightly depending on the method you used to create your cowl neck.

If you used the first method (easy cowl top), you will have already sewn the shoulder seams and bound the sleeve hems. Now, simply place the front and back pieces of your t-shirt right sides together, aligning the side seams. Pin the pieces together to keep them in place, and sew along the side seams, using a straight stitch or a serger if you have one.

If you used the second method (drafting a cowl neck from a basic bodice block), you will follow a similar process. Place the front and back pieces of your t-shirt right sides together, aligning the side seams, and pin them in place. Sew along the side seams, using a straight stitch or a serger.

For both methods, it is important to finish the seam allowances to prevent fraying. You can do this by serging or zig-zag stitching the edges, or by using a binding technique.

Once the side seams are sewn and finished, you can continue constructing your cowl neck t-shirt by following the instructions for your chosen method. This may include steps such as binding the neck edges, attaching the sleeves, and hemming the bottom of the shirt.

Remember to take your time, use the appropriate tools and techniques for your fabric, and press your seams as you go to ensure professional-looking results.

Frequently asked questions