
Sewing a men's t-shirt is a great project for beginners. You can make a t-shirt using a sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch or an overlocker. The first step is to create a pattern. You can do this by tracing around a t-shirt that fits well or by downloading a free pattern. You will then need to cut out your pattern pieces from your chosen fabric. The best fabric for a t-shirt is a knit fabric such as interlock or jersey. Once you have cut out your pieces, you can start sewing. Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the shoulder seams. Then add the neckband, sleeves and side seams before hemming the bottom of the t-shirt and the sleeves.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Fabric | Knit fabric, such as interlock and jersey, with 25% stretch; this project is not suitable for Lycra or very stretchy jersey |
Fabric Amount | 1 to 2 yards |
Sewing Machine | Basic sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch |
Pattern | Self-drafted or pre-made |
Neckline | Crew or V-neck |
Sleeve Length | Short or long |
Cuff | Optional |
What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
- Fabric Type: The most common fabric for T-shirts is knit fabric, such as jersey or interlock. These fabrics are stretchy, comfortable, and easy to sew. If you are a beginner, look for a mid-weight jersey cotton as it is easy to work with and comfortable to wear. You can also use rib knit fabric for the neckband, as it lays nicely around the neck.
- Fabric Weight and Stretch: When choosing a knit fabric, consider the weight and stretch. A lightweight fabric with a high stretch percentage will result in a fitted T-shirt, while a medium-weight fabric with less stretch will give a more relaxed fit. Choose the fabric weight and stretch depending on your preferred style and comfort.
- Fabric Content: Different knit fabrics have different fibre contents, such as cotton, polyester, or a blend of both. Cotton knits are soft, breathable, and easy to sew, making them a popular choice for T-shirts. Polyester blends can also be a good option as they are durable, wrinkle-resistant, and easy to care for. Consider the climate and your personal preference when choosing the fabric content.
- Fabric Print and Colour: T-shirt fabric comes in a variety of prints and colours. If you are a beginner, it is best to choose a solid colour or a simple print. Avoid busy or large-scale prints as they may be challenging to work with, especially when matching patterns at the seams.
- Pre-wash Fabric: It is essential to pre-wash and dry your fabric before cutting and sewing. This will allow for any shrinkage and prevent your T-shirt from shrinking after it is made. It is also a good idea to wash your fabric with similar colours to prevent colour bleeding.
- Amount of Fabric: The amount of fabric needed will depend on the size of the T-shirt and the width of the fabric. As a general rule, you will need approximately 1.5 to 2 yards (1.5 to 2 metres) of 60-inch-wide (150 cm) fabric for a men's T-shirt. Always check the fabric requirements on your pattern and adjust as needed.
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Cutting the fabric
Now that you have your pattern, it's time to cut the fabric.
Lay the fabric out on a flat surface. Make sure that it is free of wrinkles, stretched bits, or other distortions. Place your paper pattern pieces on top, aligning the stretch of the jersey fabric across the width of the T-shirt. For example, if you are using striped fabric, the stretch should go in the same direction as the stripes.
Use heavy books or sewing weights to hold the pattern pieces in place, instead of pinning them, as pinning can introduce distortions or stretches in the fabric. Carefully draw around the edge of the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, being careful not to tug or pull on the fabric as you draw.
Cut out the shapes with sharp scissors or tailor's shears. You will end up with a front piece, a back piece, and two arms.
If you are using a different pattern, follow the instructions provided.
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Sewing the shoulder seams
Now that you have cut out the pattern pieces, it's time to start sewing your t-shirt together. Place the front and back pieces of the t-shirt right sides together and pin the shoulders. Sew along the pinned shoulder edges to join the two pattern pieces together, remembering to remove the pins as you go. Repeat this process for the other shoulder.
Next, open out the two pieces so they are only joined at the shoulders. Take one of the arm pattern pieces and find the centre point of the curved side. Line this centre point up to one of the shoulders and pin it in place, with the right sides facing in. This pin will be at the point that will lie on the very edge of the shoulder. Now, you need to pin the rest of the arm to the armhole. Starting at the pin you have just added, work outwards along the curved edge of the arm and pin it to the body piece. Be very careful here, as it can be tricky to pin curved edges together! Don't be afraid to go crazy with your pinning—more is definitely merrier! Carefully sew the pinned arm piece to the body pieces, along the curve you have just pinned, and remove the pins as you go. Repeat this process for the other arm.
Tips
- It’s super important to sew slowly. Set your stitch to a straight stitch and sew approximately 1 cm from the edges.
- If your knit is quite stretchy, you might like to stabilize the shoulders so that they don’t get saggy over time. Stabilizing the shoulders will result in a smart-looking fitted t-shirt.
- If you decide to stabilize, you can use rayon seam binding, clear swimsuit elastic, a thin woven fabric strip, or even the selvedge of your knit fabric. The goal here is to choose something that doesn’t stretch much and isn’t very bulky.
- If you are using a very stable knit, you might as well use a straight stitch for this seam. The shoulder seams do not need to stretch and they are quite visible, so a tidy straight stitch can produce an attractive seam. If you choose to use an elastic or knit selvedge as a stabilizer, you will still want to use a stretch stitch since all of your materials contain stretch!
- Press the seam allowances towards the back to cover your stabilizer (it is also possible to press your seam allowances open if you would like to reduce bulk). If you would like, you can finish your seam allowances using another row of zig-zag stitching. This will stop any potential fraying.
- If you are using an overlocker, you can finish the seam allowances as you sew the shoulder seams.
- If you are using a sewing machine, you can finish the seam allowances with a zig-zag stitch or an overedge foot.
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Adding the neckband
Now that the shoulder seams are sewn, you will have a neck hole that is ready to finish with binding!
Cut a strip of fabric, measuring 4cm wide by approximately 45cm long. Make sure you orientate your cutting so that it will stretch lengthwise, not width-wise.
With a medium-hot iron, press the fabric strip flat. Carefully and neatly, fold the strip in half along the long edge. Press this fold in place.
Find the mid-point of the neck binding strip. Turn your T-shirt the right way round. Line the mid-point of the neck binding with the mid-point of the neck hole, on the front of the T-shirt. You’ll need to align the raw edges of the binding strip (i.e. not the folded edge) with the raw edge of the neck hole. Pin them together.
The next step involves pinning the binding to the neck hole. For this, the binding must be at a greater tension (i.e. more stretched) than the neck hole. This will ensure it sits flat when you wear it.
Make a mark on the binding strip 10cm to one side of the pinned mid-point. Pin this marked point of the binding to the shoulder seam of the neck hole (i.e. the bit of the T-shirt that will sit beneath your ear). The length of fabric between the pins should now be shorter for the neck binding than it is for the neck hole.
You now have the neck line pinned in two places. Carefully add more pins in-between the two existing pinned points. You’ll need to gently stretch the neck binding as you pin, so that it lines up against the neck hole without any gaps. When finished, you’ll have a quarter of the neckline pinned in place. Repeat this step for the other quarter of the neckline that sits on the front of the T-shirt.
Then repeat this for the back of the T-shirt, so that the entire neckline is pinned in place.
It’s really important to use a zig-zag stitch for this step. This type of stitch will allow you to stretch the neckline over your head, without the thread snapping. If you use a straight stitch, it has no give and will simply rip apart if you stretch it.
Set your sewing machine to a zig-zag stitch. Sew along the neck binding, removing the pins as you go. As you sew, ensure that you gently stretch the neckline so that the binding is at a higher tension than the neck hole.
When you get to the back of the neckline, where the two ends meet, stop sewing. Remove any last pins. Unfold the two ends of the neckline and lay them flat against each other, right sides together. Pin them together and sew in place (with a straight stitch). Trim any excess, then fold the neckline in half again (along the line that you pressed earlier). Then simply sew this to the T-shirt, in the same way that you sewed the rest of the neckline (make sure you use a zig-zag stitch!).
At this point, it’s a good idea to try on the T-shirt. Make sure the neckline can stretch over your head. If it’s too tight, simply unpick the neckline and cut the hole larger, then repeat the previous steps. If the neck strap does not sit flat against your neck, it’s probably because the binding was not held at a high enough tension when you sewed it. Unpick the neckline and repin it, but this time stretch the neck binding more tightly against the neck hole.
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Hemming the sleeves and bottom
Preparation:
Before you begin hemming, it is important to have the right tools and materials. Ensure you have a good quality thread that closely matches the colour of your T-shirt fabric. Select the appropriate needle for your sewing machine, such as a ballpoint needle, suitable for knit fabrics. Additionally, you will need sewing pins, a hemming gauge, and a pressing cloth if you are working with delicate or fine fabrics.
Measuring and Marking:
Use the hemming gauge to determine the desired width of your hem. For the sleeves, fold and pin the hem to the desired width. For the bottom hem, you can follow a similar process, or you may choose to press the raw edge upwards once or twice, depending on the desired finish and the thickness of your fabric. If your T-shirt has a slightly loose fit, a straight stitch can be used for hemming, but if it is a tighter fit, opt for a zig-zag stitch to allow for stretch.
Sewing the Hem:
For the sleeves, hand sew using an invisible hemming stitch, or select the invisible hemming stitch on your sewing machine. You can also use a straight machine stitch to secure the sleeve hem in place. When hemming the bottom of the T-shirt, start at the side and sew over the folded edge, working your way all around the waist. As with the sleeves, use a straight stitch for a loose-fitting T-shirt or a zig-zag stitch for a tighter fit. Ensure that you do not stretch the fabric as you sew.
Finishing:
Once you have sewn the hems, carefully press them using a pressing cloth if needed, especially for delicate fabrics. This will give your T-shirt a neat and polished look. Try on the T-shirt to ensure a comfortable fit. If the hems feel too tight, unpick and adjust the hem width accordingly.
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Frequently asked questions
Most t-shirts are made with knit fabric, but you may wish to choose a knit fabric with a fairly low amount of stretch to make the sewing process easier.
The easiest way to draft your own shirt pattern will be to copy the shape of an existing shirt that fits well.
Position the rounded portion of the sleeve against the rounded portion of the armhole. Pin the middle of both curves together. Gradually position and pin the rest of the sleeve curve to the rest of the armhole, working on one side at a time. Repeat this process for both sleeves.
Place the ribbed collar over the neckline opening and pin it in place. Point the raw side of the collar toward the neckline and keep it above the shirt material. Pin it to the centre back of the shirt and the centre front. The collar will be smaller than the neckline opening, so you'll need to gently stretch the collar as you pin it down to the rest of the neckline.
Fold the bottom edge up according to your original seam allowance. Pin or press the fold in place, then stitch around the opening. Make sure that you only stitch the hem in place. Do not sew the front and back sides of the shirt together.