Sewing A Racerback Tank Top: A Step-By-Step Guide

Racerback tank tops are a popular clothing item, especially during the summer months. They are sleeveless, lightweight, and expose the wearer's arms, shoulders, and back, making them ideal for warm weather. In this guide, we will teach you how to sew your own racerback tank top, covering everything from the tools and materials you will need to a step-by-step tutorial on constructing the garment. Whether you are an experienced sewist or a beginner, this project is a great way to create a versatile and flattering addition to your wardrobe.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your racerback tank top, it's important to consider the design and functionality you want. This pattern works best with stretchy fabric, specifically a knit fabric with negative ease. Cotton spandex is a great option as it has good recovery and breathability. You'll need 1 yard of 58-inch wide fabric for the main body of the top.

If you want to add a shelf bra for extra support, you'll need to add another 1/2 yard of fabric. Cotton spandex is also suitable for the shelf bra, providing comfort and breathability.

For the bands at the neckline and armholes, you can use contrasting fabric to add a unique touch. You'll need 1/8 yard of fabric for these bands, or 1/6 yard if you're less confident in your cutting skills.

Additionally, you can use a soft, stretchy fabric like rayon knit for the main body of the top. Rayon knit is perfect for summer as it allows your skin to breathe and has a beautiful drape. However, it may result in a slightly wavy hem, so consider using a stretchable interfacing for a neater finish.

When choosing fabric for the bindings, you can cut them slightly wider than the pattern suggests to create a binding option. You can also use cotton lycra for the bands instead of fold-over elastic (FOE), as long as it stretches with the fabric.

Sewing the shoulder seams

Now that you have the pattern and supplies, it's time to start sewing your racerback tank top! The first step is to sew the shoulder seams. Place the front and back pieces of the tank top together, with right sides facing each other. You will be sewing the shoulders together using a stretch stitch. This will create the structure of your top and connect the front and back pieces.

For this step, you will need your sewing machine and basic notions such as pins, needles, and thread. Make sure your sewing machine is set to a stretch stitch, as this will allow for the necessary stretch and flexibility in the fabric. You can also use a zig-zag stitch if your machine doesn't have a dedicated stretch stitch.

Pin the shoulder seams together to hold the layers of fabric in place while you sew. Start sewing from one end of the shoulder seam, following the seam allowance specified in your pattern. Continue sewing until you reach the other end of the shoulder seam, ensuring that your stitch line is straight and secure.

Repeat this process for the other shoulder seam. Once both shoulder seams are sewn, you can move on to the next step of constructing your racerback tank top.

At this stage, your racerback tank top is starting to take shape. The shoulder seams provide the foundational structure for the garment, connecting the front and back pieces together. This step is crucial to ensuring a proper fit and creating a smooth canvas for the rest of the construction process.

After sewing the shoulder seams, it's important to finish the seam allowances to prevent fraying and ensure a neat and durable finish. You can use a serger or an overlocker to finish the seam allowances, or you can use a zig-zag stitch or another type of seam finish if you don't have those specialised machines.

Stitching the side seams

When stitching the side seams of your racerback tank top, you will need to have already cut out your fabric pieces. You should have one front piece, one back piece, and two side pieces. Place the front and back pieces right sides together, and carefully pin the side seams, ensuring the pieces are properly aligned.

Using a sewing machine, stitch the side seams with a stretch stitch. You can also use a zig-zag stitch if your machine does not have a stretch stitch function. Start at the armhole and sew all the way down to the bottom hem of the tank top. Repeat this process on the other side, so that both side seams are stitched.

If your tank top includes a shelf bra, you will need to stitch the side seams of the bra to the side seams of the tank top. Place the shelf bra inside the tank top, with the fabric wrong sides together, and match the side seams. Pin the layers together, and then stitch along the side seams, securing the shelf bra in place.

Once the side seams are stitched, you can continue constructing your tank top by stitching the shoulder seams and attaching the arm and neckbands.

Attaching the neck and arm bands

Now that you have the basic structure of your racerback tank top ready, it's time to attach the neck and arm bands. This will give your garment a neat finish and ensure it fits snugly around your arms and neck. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it:

Step 1: Prepare the Bands

Cut long pieces of fabric for the neck and arm bands. The length of these pieces will depend on the stretch of your fabric. As a general rule, cut the fabric to 80-90% of the measurement of your neck and arm openings. For example, if your neck opening is 20 inches, cut your fabric to 16-18 inches in length. Remember, if your fabric is very stretchy, cut it shorter, and if it's less stretchy, cut it to the longer length. Sew the short ends of the fabric pieces together, then fold them in half, creating a loop.

Step 2: Pin the Bands

Pin the bands to the right side of the tank top, stretching them slightly as you go. Start with the neck band, then move on to the arm bands. Make sure to match the raw edges of the fabric and pin carefully to ensure an even finish.

Step 3: Sew the Bands

Using a sewing machine, stitch the bands to the tank top, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew. This will help create a snug fit. Remove any pins as you go.

Step 4: Press and Topstitch (Optional)

Turn your tank top inside out and press the bands with an iron to create a neat finish. You can then topstitch the bands in place, using a knit stitch or a double needle. This step is optional but will give your garment a more professional look.

Step 5: Repeat for Arm Openings

Repeat the above steps for the arm openings, making sure to carefully pin and stretch the fabric as you sew.

Once you've attached the neck and arm bands, your racerback tank top is almost complete! All that's left to do is to hem the bottom of the top, and you'll be ready to show off your new creation!

Hemming the bottom of the tank top

Preparation:

Begin by preparing the bottom edge of the tank top. Take the raw edge of the fabric and fold it under once, approximately 1/4" (inch). Secure this fold with pins, and then press it with an iron to create a crisp, clean crease. This initial ironing step is optional but highly recommended as it helps to keep the fold in place and results in a neater finish.

First Fold and Iron:

Now, remove the pins and fold this edge over once more, by another 1/4" (inch). This second fold ensures that the raw edge of the fabric is completely concealed. The raw edge is the cut side of the fabric, and by folding it under, you prevent it from fraying and shedding during washing and wearing. Secure this second fold with pins, and then run the iron over it again to set the crease.

Sewing the Hem:

Set up your sewing machine with a thread that matches the colour of your tank top fabric. It is best to start sewing at the side seam of the shirt. Begin by stitching a 1/2" (inch) straight stitch, starting slightly (about 1/4" inch) away from the edge of the fabric. Sew backwards over this initial stitch to create a knot, which will prevent the thread from coming loose. Continue stitching forward, maintaining a consistent distance of slightly under 1/4" inch from the edge of the fabric. Remember to remove the pins as you sew, so you don't accidentally sew over them.

Finishing the Hem:

Continue stitching all around the bottom edge of the shirt until you reach the point where you started. To finish, stitch backward for about 1/2" inch to create a final knot and prevent the thread from unraveling. Then, simply cut the threads, and your hem is complete!

This technique of folding, ironing, and stitching will give your racerback tank top a professional finish and ensure it stands the test of time, wash after wash.

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