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Sewing a raglan T-shirt is a fun and easy project that can be completed in a few hours. Raglan T-shirts, also known as baseball-style tees, are popular because they are flattering and allow for mix-and-match colours and patterns. In this guide, we will cover everything from creating your own pattern to choosing the right fabric and sewing it all together. We will also explore different variations, such as adding cuffs or a high-low hem, so you can make a raglan T-shirt that is unique to your style.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Sewing machine | Stretch needle |
| Fabric | Two coordinating jersey knits with similar weight and stretch |
| Sewing pattern | DIY raglan tee pattern or pre-made pattern |
| Sewing technique | Zigzag stitch or serger stitch |
| Hemming | Hem the sleeves and bottom of the shirt using a double needle |
What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
When choosing the right fabric for your raglan T-shirt, there are several factors to consider, including comfort, durability, breathability, ease of care, and cost. Here are some tips to help you select the best fabric for your project:
Fabric Type
The most common fabric options for T-shirts are cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two. Cotton is a natural, comfortable, and soft fabric that stays cool in the summer. It is ideal for hot weather but may have little to no wrinkle resistance. Polyester, on the other hand, is a synthetic fabric that is durable, moisture-wicking, and quick-drying. It is a good choice for athletic wear and custom T-shirts. If you want the best of both worlds, a cotton-polyester blend offers enhanced durability, stretch, and comfort. This blend is commonly used for T-shirts as it provides softness, breathability, and wrinkle resistance.
Fabric Weight
The weight of the fabric, typically measured in grams per square meter (GSM), will determine the thickness and heaviness of your T-shirt. Lightweight fabrics (around 100-150 GSM) are thinner and more breathable, making them suitable for warm weather. Heavyweight fabrics (200+ GSM) are thicker and more durable, perfect for durable workwear and cooler weather. Medium-weight fabrics (150-200 GSM) offer a balance between breathability and durability.
Climate and Activities
Consider the climate you live in or the activities you plan to do while wearing the T-shirt. If you live in a hot and humid climate, opt for a lightweight and breathable fabric like cotton or linen. For athletic wear, choose a moisture-wicking fabric such as polyester or a cotton-spandex blend, which offers more elasticity and wrinkle resistance. For casual wear, a comfortable and durable option like a cotton-polyester blend is a good choice.
Durability and Longevity
If you're looking for a fabric that will last, consider its durability and longevity. Fabrics like combed cotton or blended materials tend to maintain their shape, color, and integrity over time. Polyester is also known for its resilience, as it retains its shape, color, and original size even after multiple washes.
Comfort
Fabric comfort is essential, so choose a fabric that feels gentle against your skin. Natural fibers like cotton are typically softer and more breathable than synthetic ones. You may also want to consider the texture and composition of the fabric. Try on different fabrics and select the ones that feel most pleasant to you.
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Cutting the fabric
The first step in sewing a raglan T-shirt is to cut the fabric according to the pattern you have chosen or drafted. The pattern will determine the shape and size of the different pieces required, including the front and back bodice, sleeves, and neckband.
For the bodice, you will need to cut two pieces, one for the front and one for the back. These pieces should be cut on the fold of the fabric, ensuring that the back piece has a higher neckline than the front. This difference in neckline height creates the distinctive raglan sleeve style.
Next, cut the sleeves. Most raglan T-shirts feature two sleeves, and the pattern should indicate the shape and size. It is important to ensure that the sleeves are cut as mirror images of each other to achieve a symmetrical look. The sleeves should have a straight line from the neckline down over the shoulder, and you may want to make the sleeve opening slightly larger than your pattern for a more comfortable fit.
Additionally, you will need to cut a neckband. The neckband should be a long, thin strip of fabric, typically about 1.75 inches tall and 25 inches long. Remember to cut the fabric for the neckband with the stretch going along its length. This will provide the necessary flexibility for the neckline.
When cutting your fabric, it is essential to consider the type of fabric you are using. Raglan T-shirts are typically made with knit fabric, which is stretchy. Ensure that the fabric is washed and dried before cutting to prevent shrinkage later. Additionally, consider the direction of the stretch in the fabric. The stretch should go side to side on all pieces to allow for comfortable movement and a good fit.
Once all the pieces are cut out, you can proceed to the next step of sewing your raglan T-shirt.
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Sewing the sleeves
Prepare the Fabric Pieces
Before you begin sewing, ensure you have cut out the necessary fabric pieces: two sleeves, one front bodice, and one back bodice. It is crucial to use knit fabric, which is stretchy. The stretch should go from side to side on all pieces. Additionally, press the hems on the sleeves, front, and back pieces beforehand to save time later.
Attach Sleeves to the Back Bodice
Place one of your sleeve pieces on top of the back bodice, with right sides together. The sleeve pattern will indicate which side should match up with the back bodice—it is usually the taller side of the sleeve. Pin and sew using a stretch needle and a narrow zigzag stitch. A stitch setting of 0.5 width and 2.5-3.0 length is ideal, as it allows for stretch while maintaining a neat appearance. Repeat this process with the other sleeve.
Attach Sleeves to the Front Bodice
Now, take the front bodice piece and match it with the front (shorter) sides of each sleeve. Pin and sew these pieces together, again with right sides facing each other. Ensure the sleeves are attached securely to both the front and back bodice pieces.
Sew the Side Seams
At this stage, your raglan T-shirt should be taking shape. Sew the side seams by starting at the bottom of one sleeve, sewing up and under the arm, and then back down the side of the shirt. Repeat on the other side. It is recommended to gently stretch the fabric while sewing under the arm to ensure a comfortable fit and prevent the seam from popping when the arms are raised.
Finish the Hem and Sleeves
Turn your T-shirt inside out, and it's almost ready! Finish the hems of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt using a double needle. For the sleeves, a hem of about 1/2 an inch is standard, while the bottom hem of the shirt can be closer to 1 inch. Since the bottom hemline is curved, use steam to press and flatten it before sewing.
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Sewing the side seams
Place the Front and Back Bodice Pieces Together: Lay the front and back bodice pieces of your raglan T-shirt right sides together, ensuring that the side seams are aligned. Pin the pieces together along the side seam allowance line, usually about ⅝ inch from the raw edge, or follow the seam allowance indicated in your pattern. If you're using a serger, you may want to reduce the seam allowance to ½ inch.
Stitch the Side Seams: Starting at the underarm, sew along the pinned edge, following the seam allowance guide on your sewing machine. Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to allow for stretch and movement in the final garment. Sew smoothly and consistently, ensuring that you don't stretch the fabric as you sew, as this can cause the seam to ripple or warp.
Reinforce the Stitching: To ensure the side seams are strong and durable, reinforce the stitching by backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. You can also sew an additional row of stitching about ¼ inch from the first row to create a double seam, which will add strength and prevent the seam from ripping.
Press the Seams: Pressing the seams will give them a neat, professional finish and help the garment to lay flat. First, press the seam allowances open, using a pressing ham or tailor's ham to support the curved side seam. Then, from the right side of the garment, press the seam again to create a crisp, flat finish.
Repeat for the Other Side: Repeat the above steps for the other side seam of your raglan T-shirt to complete the process. Ensure that the seams match in length and alignment to achieve a symmetrical and polished look.
By carefully following these steps, you'll create smooth and strong side seams that will give your raglan T-shirt a professional finish and a comfortable fit. Remember to take your time, especially when aligning the seams and stitching, to ensure the best results.
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Hemming the shirt
Firstly, you will need to decide on your desired hem length. For the body of the T-shirt, a 1 1/4" hem is standard, and for the sleeves, a 3/4" hem is typical. However, you can adjust these measurements to your preference. Once you have decided on your hem length, fold the fabric to create a neat hem and press it down with an iron. You can also use double-sided sticky tape made for sewing to hold the hem in place temporarily and prevent it from stretching.
Next, you will need to select the appropriate needle and stitch type for your sewing machine. The best needles for hemming T-shirts are ballpoint or stretch needles. If you want your hem to look like a store-bought T-shirt, use a twin needle with a ballpoint or stretch needle. This will create two parallel lines of stitching on the right side of the fabric. Alternatively, you can use a standard ballpoint or jersey needle with any stretch stitch on your machine, such as a zigzag stitch.
When you are ready to sew, lower the presser foot pressure on your machine if possible. This will help prevent the fabric from becoming wavy as you sew. Sew along the folded edge of the hem, taking care to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitching.
Finally, press the hem with a steam iron to give it a crisp, professional finish.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need two coordinating jersey knits with enough fabric for your size according to your pattern, a stretch needle for your sewing machine, and your DIY raglan T-shirt pattern.
The knits that go best together have a similar weight and stretch. Two knits with a similar or same fabric content are a good choice.
You will need to cut one front and one back bodice piece on the fold. Remember, the back piece will have a higher neckline. Cut two sleeve pieces.
Start by unfolding the back bodice and laying it down on a table. Grab one of your sleeve pieces and lay them on top of the bodice, right sides together. Stitch them together, and repeat with the other sleeve.
