Sewing Delicate Silk: Crafting A Stylish Tank Top

Tank tops are a timeless wardrobe staple and a great beginner project for anyone looking to get into sewing. They can be made with woven or knit fabric, and the process is simple. You can draft a pattern from scratch using your own measurements or trace around a tank top that fits you well. Once you have your pattern, cut it out and pin the front and back sides of your tank top together, with the right sides facing each other. Sew the pieces together, hem the raw edges, and your tank top is ready to wear!

Choosing the right fabric

Silk is a luxurious, natural fibre that is lightweight, strong, and lustrous. It is also known for its draping qualities. When choosing the right silk fabric for your tank top, there are several factors to consider.

Firstly, you should determine the desired weight and drape of the fabric. Silk fabrics can range from lightweight and sheer to more substantial and opaque. If you want a flowy and drapey tank top, go for a lightweight silk like chiffon or georgette. For a more structured look, choose a silk with more body, such as dupioni or taffeta.

Another important consideration is the colour and pattern of the silk. Silk is available in a wide range of colours and can also be printed or embroidered. Choose a colour that complements your skin tone and consider whether you want a solid colour or a patterned fabric.

The type of silk fabric you choose will also depend on the style of the tank top you want to sew. If you are creating a simple, classic tank top, a plain silk fabric in a solid colour would be a good choice. On the other hand, if you want to add details like ruffles or pockets, you might opt for a printed silk or a fabric with a textured surface, such as dupioni.

In addition, it is crucial to prepare your silk fabric properly before sewing. Pre-washing is essential to remove any remnants of dye and prevent colour bleeding. Most silks can be hand-washed or machine-washed, but always check the care instructions first. After washing, you may need to press the fabric to remove any wrinkles. When cutting the fabric, use sharp tools like a rotary cutter or very sharp shears to ensure precise edges.

Finally, when sewing with silk, it is recommended to use the right needles and threads. Fine fabrics like silk require slim, sharp needles, so choose a needle designed specifically for sewing delicate fabrics. As for thread, cotton or high-quality polyester thread is a better choice than silk thread, as it is stronger and less slippery.

Drafting the pattern

To draft the pattern for your silk tank top, you can either use an existing tank top as a guide or take your own measurements.

If you're using an existing tank top, fold it in half along its vertical centre and place it on top of a large sheet of paper. Trace around the entire outline of the tank top, then draw a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to the outside, which will serve as your seam allowance. Cut out the pattern pieces and label them "Back" and "Front".

If you're drafting the pattern from scratch, you'll need to take the following measurements: bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length. Draw a rectangle with a height matching your desired length and a width matching half your bust/chest size. Within this rectangle, create the neck and armhole openings using your measurements as a guide. Draw a second outline 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to the outside to allow for the seam allowance, then cut out both the front and back pattern pieces.

Once you have your pattern pieces, you can move on to cutting out the fabric and sewing your silk tank top together.

Cutting out the pattern pieces

The first step in sewing a silk tank top is to draft the pattern pieces. You can do this by either using an existing tank top as a guide or by taking your own body measurements. If you choose to use an existing tank top, fold the tank top in half along its vertical center and place it on top of a large sheet of paper. Trace around the outline of the tank top, adding a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to the outside. For the back piece, carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and trace around the outline again with the same seam allowance. Cut out both pattern pieces and label them "Back" and "Front".

If you prefer to draft the pattern from scratch, you will need to take the following measurements: bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length. For the bust/chest measurement, wrap the measuring tape around the widest part of your bust or chest, keeping the tape taut and parallel to the ground. To measure the armhole depth, place the measuring tape at the top outside edge of the shoulder and measure down to the center of the armpit. To find the neck depth, measure from the collarbone down to the middle of the bust line or chest line at an angle. For the neck width, wrap the measuring tape around your neck, keeping it parallel to the ground. Finally, measure from the top of your shoulder down to your desired length, keeping your back straight.

Once you have these measurements, you can begin sketching the front and back outlines of your pattern pieces within separate rectangles. To create the neck opening for the front piece, measure down from the top left corner to your neck depth and mark this point. Then, measure across from the top left corner to a point equal to half of your neck width plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark this as well. Draw a curved line between these two points to create the neckline. For the armhole, measure 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) along the top from the upper end of the neckline, depending on your desired strap width. Also, measure down from the upper right corner to your armhole depth. Draw a curved line between these points to create the armhole. After outlining the tank, add a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the perimeter.

Repeat a similar process for the back piece, taking into account that the back neckline is usually higher than the front. For the neckline, measure down from the top left corner by 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) depending on your desired height. For the width, measure across from the top left corner to a point equal to half your neck width plus 1 inch (2.5 cm). Draw a curved line between these points to create the back neckline. Create the armhole in the same way as the front piece. Finally, add a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the finished outline of both the front and back pattern pieces. Cut out your pattern pieces, making sure to label them accordingly and mark the fold lines.

Sewing the pieces together

Now that you have cut out the pattern pieces, it's time to sew them together. Place the front piece face-up, then place the back piece face-down on top of it. Evenly align the perimeters and pin the two pieces together. Make sure that the "right" sides of the fabric are facing each other and the "wrong" sides are facing outward. Check that both pieces are flat and that the edges match all the way around, excluding the necklines.

The next step is to pin the shoulders and sides in place. The remaining edges do not need to be pinned. Machine stitch along the upper part of the shoulder straps and along both side edges, using a seam allowance no greater than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). This will create seams at the shoulders and sides, and you do not need seams anywhere else on the garment. It is recommended to use a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch to give the material more stretch and help minimise fraying.

Your silk tank top should now be taking shape! Try it on to ensure it is fitting correctly so far. At this point, it is still possible to make adjustments to the sides, length, and neckline. If it feels awkward, try adjusting the strap length, neckline, and curve around the bottom. If it is very ill-fitting, you may need to abort the mission and try again with new pattern pieces.

Once you are happy with the fit, it is time to hem the remaining raw edges. Machine stitch along the open bottom, neckline, and armholes, using a seam allowance no greater than 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). Sew around the entire opening, but do not stitch the front and back pieces together during this step. Use a standard straight stitch for the hems instead of a zigzag stitch.

Hemming the raw edges

Preparation:

Before you start hemming, make sure you have the necessary tools and materials. You will need a sewing machine, silk fabric, matching thread, scissors, pins, and an iron. It is also helpful to have a measuring tape and a fabric pencil or chalk to mark the hem allowance.

Step 1: Determine the Hem Allowance:

The hem allowance is the amount of fabric you will fold under to create a neat edge. For a silk tank top, a narrow hem is usually preferred to reduce bulk and allow the fabric to lay flat. A common hem allowance for delicate fabrics like silk is 1/4 inch. Use your measuring tape or a quilting ruler to mark the hem allowance all around the raw edges of the tank top, including the bottom hem, armholes, and neckline.

Step 2: Fold and Press:

Fold the raw edge of the fabric towards the wrong side of the garment, aligning it with the hem allowance line that you marked. Use your iron to press the fold in place, creating a crisp edge. This step is important to ensure that your hem lies flat and does not shift while you are sewing.

Step 3: Pin the Hem in Place:

Once the fabric is folded and pressed, use pins to secure the hem in place. Place the pins perpendicular to the edge, about 1/2 inch apart. This will hold the fabric in place as you sew.

Step 4: Sew the Hem:

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a small stitch length, such as 2.0 mm. Start sewing the hem, backstitching at the beginning to secure the thread. Sew slowly and carefully, keeping your stitches close to the folded edge of the fabric. Remove the pins as you go, being careful not to distort the fabric. Continue sewing until you reach your starting point, then backstitch again to secure the thread.

Step 5: Finish the Edges (Optional):

For a more polished look, you can finish the raw edge of the hem by folding it a second time. Simply fold the raw edge under so that it is enclosed within the first fold. Press and pin this second fold in place, then sew along the edge as before. This will completely enclose the raw edge, giving your silk tank top a clean and durable finish.

Tips and Tricks:

• Practice on a scrap piece of fabric first to perfect your technique and ensure that your stitch length and tension are suitable for the silk fabric.
• If your silk is very lightweight or slippery, consider using a stabiliser or hemming tape to make the process easier.
• Pressing the folds with an iron is crucial to achieving a professional-looking hem. Use a low heat setting and test on a small piece of fabric first to avoid damaging the silk.

Frequently asked questions