Stitching Sport Coats: A Guide

Sewing a sport coat may seem like a daunting task, but it's not as difficult as you might think. In fact, most of the skills required are likely to be ones you've already tried and nailed in other sewing projects. As with any new sewing challenge, all it takes is patience and practice.

Before you begin, it's important to choose a pattern and fabric that appeal to you. You can find suit patterns in a craft supply store, fabric and sewing supply store, or online. Opt for a heavyweight fabric for your blazer, such as wool, tweed, velvet, or corduroy. If you're creating a summer suit, go for a medium-weight fabric like linen or cotton.

Once you have your pattern and fabric, the next step is to cut out the fabric pieces. Lay each pattern piece on your fabric and cut using the paper as a template. Your pattern piece should have a line that you'll line up with the grain of your fabric to ensure your sport coat hangs properly.

After cutting, it's time to start sewing. Attach the lapels to the front panel pieces, then sew the back pieces together. Pin the front pieces to the back piece and sew along the shoulders and outer sides. For the sleeves, you'll need to sew the under sleeve piece to the upper sleeve piece, creating a simple tube. Attach the sleeves to the armholes, and you'll have the body of the sport coat.

Finally, finish your sport coat by hemming the cuffs, lapels, and bottom. You can add buttons or snaps for embellishments, or simply enjoy your open blazer.

Choosing the right fabric

If you are a beginner, natural fibres such as wool or linen are great options as they shape and press beautifully. Opting for a darker colour and a fabric with some surface texture can also help hide any imperfections. It is best to avoid plaids, stripes, or patterns that need to be matched at every seam, as this can be challenging.

The type of fabric you choose will also depend on the desired level of formality. For a more casual look, consider a hopsack sport coat, which has a "basket weave" pattern and is made from wool. This type of fabric is light, breathable, wrinkle-resistant, and pairs well with jeans. If you're looking for something more formal, a blazer is a great option. Blazers are typically made with a simpler, sleeker, and smoother "hard-finish" wool fabric and have a more structured fit.

When selecting a fabric, it is also important to consider the drape and breathability of the fabric. A full canvas construction and full lining will give your sport coat the best drape. For warmer months, consider a half-lining to increase breathability.

Additionally, if you plan to pair your sport coat with denim, a casual and thickly textured fabric may be a good choice. In contrast, if you're looking for something more refined, a fine and clean-looking cloth, such as a subtle plaid pattern, can be dressed up or down.

Finally, consider the overall quality of the fabric. Higher-quality fabrics will look better, feel more comfortable, and last longer, making them a worthwhile investment.

Cutting the fabric

The first step in cutting the fabric is to choose the right type and amount of fabric. For a sport coat, medium-weight fabrics such as wool or linen are good options. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the size and physique of the person you are making the coat for. For a standard sport coat for an average-sized man, you will need around 2.5 yards of 45-inch wide fabric. If you are using a wider fabric, such as 60-inch fabric, you may need as little as 2 yards. For taller or larger men, you will need more fabric, around 3 to 4 yards for a 45-inch wide fabric and 3 yards for a 60-inch wide fabric. It is always better to have too much fabric than too little, so add in some extra fabric for allowances, seams, and other details.

Once you have the right amount of fabric, it's time to start cutting. Using a pattern or template, carefully cut out each piece of the sport coat, including the front and back panels, sleeves, collar, pockets, and any other details. If you are unsure about cutting all the pieces at once, you can start by cutting a muslin fabric that is similar in weight to your final fabric. This will allow you to test the fit and make any necessary adjustments before cutting your final fabric.

When cutting the fabric, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to ensure precise and straight cuts. Cut each piece slowly and carefully, following the lines of your pattern or template. If you are using a patterned fabric, pay close attention to the pattern placement to ensure that the pieces align correctly. It is also important to cut the fabric in a single layer, rather than folding it, to ensure more accurate cutting.

After cutting all the pieces, it is a good idea to transfer any markings from the pattern to the fabric, such as dart points or buttonhole placements. You can use tailor's chalk or a fabric pen to mark these points.

Finally, before sewing the pieces together, it is essential to finish the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying. You can use a serger or an overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine to finish the edges.

Sewing the body

Now that you've cut out the fabric pieces, it's time to start sewing the body of the blazer. This process will involve attaching the lapel piece to the front panel, sewing together the back pieces, and then joining the front and back pieces together.

Attaching the Lapel Piece to the Front Panel

Place both of your front panel pieces flat so the pattern faces up. Then, take the two lapel fabric pieces and lay them right side up on the panel pieces. Line up the straight edge of the lapels with the inner edge of the panel pieces and insert sewing pins so they're parallel with the inner edge of the pieces. Your pattern may specify which lapel goes on which panel piece. Align the pieces at the shoulders, too, so the shoulder line is even. Take the fabric to your sewing machine and use thread that matches your fabric to begin sewing the lapel piece. Keep sewing straight along the inner edge and leave a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Sewing the Back Pieces Together

Take the two large back pieces and stack them so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Line up the edges so the shoulders, sides, and bottom are aligned. Then, pin the inner side from the neckline to the hemline. If your pattern has two additional narrow pieces for the back, sew them along the outer edges using a straight stitch. To make one large back panel, take your pinned fabric to the sewing machine and sew straight stitches from the neckline down to the hemline. Leave a 1/4-inch seam allowance as you sew.

Joining the Front and Back Pieces

Spread out the back piece that you just finished sewing so the pattern is facing down. Then, lay both of the front panel pieces on top with the wrong sides facing up. Line up the outer edges of the panel pieces with the outer edges of the back piece and pin the edges of the front pieces to the back piece. It's important to line up the edges along the shoulder, sides, and bottom so the sides of the blazer are straight. Insert sewing pins about every 2 inches. Remember to pin both of the front pieces to the back piece. Leave a 1/4-inch seam allowance as you sew across the shoulder line and then straight stitch from the bottom of the armhole down to the bottom of the blazer. Repeat this for the other side. You should now have a complete body for the blazer.

Attaching the sleeves

Preparing the Sleeves and Body Piece

Firstly, identify the centre of your sleeve by folding it in half lengthwise and marking the centre point with chalk. This will ensure an even fit between the sleeve and shoulder point. Next, open up the body piece and lay it out flat with the correct side of the fabric facing up. Take one sleeve and turn it so that the correct side of the fabric is facing down towards the body piece. Line up the edges of the shoulder part of the sleeve with the shoulder of the body piece.

Pinning the Sleeve in Place

To secure the sleeve in place, start pinning from the centre of the shoulder. Identify the central point of the shoulder piece and pin this to the shoulder seam on the body piece. Then, continue pinning the rest of the sleeve to the armhole opening, one side at a time. Ensure that the correct sides of the fabric are facing each other and that the raw edges are aligned.

Sewing the Sleeve

Once the sleeve is pinned in place, it's time to sew! Use a sewing machine to sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the sleeve and body piece, approximately 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the edges. Remember to remove the pins as you sew. After completing this step, cut any excess threads. Repeat the entire process for the other sleeve.

Finishing Touches

Turn the garment inside out and line up the edges of the body piece and sleeves. Pin the sides of the body piece and the bottom of the sleeves to prepare for sewing. Use your sewing machine to sew a straight stitch along the bottom edges of the sleeves and sides of the body piece, maintaining a distance of about 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the raw edges. Remove the pins as you sew and cut any excess threads when finished.

If you are attaching sleeves to a sport coat that is already sewn together, follow these adjusted steps:

Inserting the Sleeve

Turn the body piece inside out and slip the sleeve in wrist-first through the armhole opening. Ensure that the sleeve is right-side-out. Continue sliding the sleeve into the opening until the edges of the armhole opening and the shoulder area of the sleeve are aligned.

Pinning and Sewing

Identify the seam on the bottom edge of the sleeve and the armhole opening, and pin these together. Then, pin around the rest of the sleeve and opening, ensuring that the raw edges are facing each other. Sew along the pinned edges with a straight stitch, approximately 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the raw edges. Remove pins as you sew and cut any excess threads when finished. Repeat the process for the other sleeve.

Adding buttons and zippers

When it comes to adding buttons and zippers to your sport coat, there are a few methods you can use. Firstly, decide whether you want to use buttons or a zipper, or a combination of both.

Buttons

If you opt for buttons, you can choose between machine or bound buttonholes. You can also consider using snaps as an alternative to traditional buttons. The type of button you choose will depend on the style and functionality you want for your sport coat.

Zippers

If you prefer a zipper, you have the option of installing a concealed zipper or a regular zipper. A concealed zipper is hidden under a button strip, providing a sleek and discreet look. On the other hand, a regular zipper is visible and can be a design element in itself.

Combining Buttons and Zippers

Combining buttons and zippers offers both style and functionality. You can replace a back zipper with buttons by following these steps:

• Remove seam allowances from the neckline, shoulder, and center back seams.
• Determine your button size and remove an additional rectangle from the center back seam accordingly.
• Trace your pattern piece, excluding seam allowances, onto a new piece of paper, leaving space for creating the button placket.
• Extend lines from the top and bottom of the center back, doubling the width of your buttons plus a small extra allowance.
• Draw parallel lines to connect the widths, creating the new center back line.
• Add back the seam allowances to the neckline and shoulder seams.
• Sew your facing, lining, or bias tape to the neckline.
• Fold the center back seam down and press into place, basting a seam line to guide you if needed.
• Fold the center back seam again to match the size of your button.
• Stitch the button placket into place at the top, bottom, and sides.
• Add buttonholes and sew on your buttons.

Alternatively, you can add a concealed zipper to your sport coat by following these adjusted steps:

• Cut your button strips, making one pair slightly wider than the other to accommodate the zipper.
• Choose a zipper that matches the length of the straight portion of the curved side of the button strip.
• Interface the button strips to provide stability.
• Sew the exterior coat pieces and lining pieces together separately.
• Baste along the straight edge of the wider button strip and the curved edge of the narrower button strip.
• Sew the narrower button strip to the wearer's right front outer piece and the wider button strip to the wearer's left front outer piece.
• Sew the remaining narrower button strip to the wearer's right front lining piece.
• Attach the zipper to the basted straight edge of the wider button strip, then sew the other side of the zipper to the straight edge of the narrower button strip.
• Place the wide button strip with the zipper onto the unsewn front lining edge, sandwiching the zipper between the button strip and lining.
• Stitch along the same line as before to secure the zipper and button strip to the lining.
• Check that the zipper functions properly by turning the lining inside out and placing it inside the outer coat.
• Continue sewing the rest of the coat according to your pattern instructions.

Remember to choose buttons and zippers that complement the style and color of your sport coat. You can opt for statement buttons or a subtle zipper, depending on your preference.

Frequently asked questions