Sewing A Tank Top: A Step-By-Step Guide To Stitching Style

Sewing a tank top is a simple project that requires basic sewing skills and about a yard and a half of fabric. You can use a tank top you already own as a template or measure your body to create a custom pattern. Once you have your pattern, cut out the fabric pieces, pin them together, and sew the seams. Finally, hem the raw edges and you're done!

Choosing the right fabric

Type of Fabric

Select a fabric that is suitable for the style of the tank top you want to create. Natural fabrics such as cotton or linen are excellent choices for a comfortable and breathable tank top. Cotton spandex rib knit or cotton spandex jersey are also good options as they offer stretch and recovery, ensuring a comfortable fit. You can also opt for a rayon spandex blend if you prefer a flowy and lightweight feel.

Fabric Weight

The weight of the fabric will impact the overall drape and structure of your tank top. A medium-weight fabric is a versatile choice for a classic tank top. If you're looking for a lighter option, go for a lightweight fabric like rayon or a linen blend. For a more structured and form-fitting tank top, consider using a slightly heavier fabric.

Stretch and Recovery

When choosing a knit fabric, pay attention to its stretch and recovery properties. Look for a fabric that has at least 50% stretch to ensure comfort and ease of movement. The fabric should also snap back to its original shape after stretching, which is an indication of good recovery.

Colour and Pattern

The colour and pattern of the fabric will contribute to the overall aesthetic of your tank top. Solid colours are versatile and can be easily paired with other garments. If you want to add a pop of colour or visual interest, consider using a fabric with a subtle pattern or print. You can also opt for a fabric that complements the other items in your wardrobe.

Amount of Fabric

The amount of fabric required will depend on the style and size of your tank top. As a general guideline, a yard and a half of fabric should be sufficient for a basic tank top. However, always refer to the pattern instructions or measurements to determine the exact amount needed.

Cutting the pattern

There are two ways to go about cutting the pattern for your tank top. You can either draft the pattern from an existing tank top or create a pattern from scratch using your own measurements.

If you are using an existing tank top, fold the tank top in half along its vertical center and place it on top of a large sheet of paper. If you are working with a woven tank top, remember to fold the tank along its back so that the front neckline remains visible. For knit fabric, you can fold it either way. Trace around the entire outline of the tank top and then draw a second outline, positioned 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to the outside, to add a seam allowance. If you are using a knit tank but want to make a woven version, add another 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter and inside of the seam allowance.

For the back neckline, carefully fold the neckline between the straps and trace around the outline, adding a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance. Make sure the rest of the perimeter remains even. Cut out the pattern pieces and label them "Back" and "Front". You can also mark where the fold sits on each pattern piece.

If you are creating a pattern from scratch, you will need to take the following measurements: bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length.

For the bust/chest measurement, wrap the measuring tape around the widest part of your bust (women) or chest (men). If you prefer a looser tank top, add 1 inch (2.5 cm) to this measurement. To measure the armhole depth, place the measuring tape from the top outside edge of the shoulder to the center of the armpit. For the neck depth, place the measuring tape at the collarbone, where the shoulder and neck seams meet, and measure down at an angle to the middle of your bust line or chest line.

To find the neck width, wrap the measuring tape around your neck, keeping it parallel to the ground. Divide this measurement in half. For the desired length, measure from the top of your shoulder down to your waistband or your desired length.

Once you have these measurements, you can start sketching the front and back outlines of your pattern. For the front outline, draw a rectangle with a height matching your desired length and a width of half your bust/chest size. Within this rectangle, create the neck and armhole openings using your measurements as guides. Draw curved lines to form these openings and disregard the portions of the rectangle lying outside the new lines.

After completing the outline, add a seam allowance of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the finished outline. Repeat this process for the back outline, ensuring that the back neckline is higher than the front.

Finally, cut out both pattern pieces along the outside perimeter of your seam allowances. Label the pieces "Front" and "Back" and mark the fold line of both pieces, which is located on the left side of the pattern, beneath the neckline, and opposite the armhole.

Sewing the shoulder straps

Now that you have your fabric cut out and ready to go, it's time to start sewing!

To begin sewing the shoulder straps, place the front and back pieces of your tank top right sides together. Pin them in place at the shoulders, making sure that the straps, armpit area, and side seams are all aligned. You can use a sewing machine or sew by hand, but make sure to use a stretch stitch like a zigzag stitch for this step. Sew across the shoulders, securing the straps in place.

If you are using knit bands instead of bias tape for the armhole and neckline, you will sew the bands to the armscye and neckline first, and then sew the shoulder straps. To do this, cut the bands shorter than the armscye and neckline, and sew them on with a stretch stitch.

Once the shoulder straps are sewn, you can continue assembling your tank top. If you are using bias tape, the next step is to steam iron the bias tape into curves to match the neckline and armholes. If you are using knit bands, you can move on to pinning and sewing the side seams.

Attaching the binding

First, cut out the binding strips. For self-fabric binding, cut these on the cross-grain of your fabric. The width of your binding strips will depend on the desired width of your finished binding—for example, cut the strips 1 inch wide for a 3/8-inch finished binding. You will need enough binding to go around the armholes and neckline, so measure these areas and cut your strips to size.

Next, sew or overlock the ends of the binding strips together to form rings. You will need one ring for each armhole and one for the neckline. Divide each ring into four equal parts and mark these points with pins. Do the same for the armholes and neckline on your tank top.

Now it's time to attach the binding to the armholes and neckline. With the shirt wrong side out, line up the seam of the binding with the side seam of the tank top and pin in place. Stretch the binding slightly to match the length of the armhole or neckline, pinning the remaining corners in place.

Sew the binding to the armhole or neckline, using a 3/8-inch seam allowance and a regular straight stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam for added strength.

Fold the binding over to the wrong side of the fabric, making sure the seam is enclosed within the binding. Pin or clip in place all the way around.

Stitch in the ditch from the right side of the fabric, sewing through the binding and the tank top. This will create a nice, neat finish.

Finally, carefully trim away any excess fabric close to the seam. Your tank top is now complete!

Hemming the tank top

Preparation

Firstly, you will need to fold and press the raw edges of the fabric. This includes the bottom hem, armhole openings, and neckline. For the bottom hem and armhole openings, fold the edge by 1/4 inch, and then repeat so that the raw edge is enclosed within this fold. Secure with pins and iron to keep the fold in place. Repeat this process for both the front and back pieces of the tank top. For the neckline, follow the same process but only perform a single fold of 1/4 inch.

Sewing

Now it's time to sew these hems in place. Set up your sewing machine with a thread that matches your fabric. Start at the side seam of the shirt and sew a 1/2 inch straight stitch, keeping a distance of slightly less than 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. Sew backwards to create a knot, and then continue stitching forwards. Keep your stitches close to the edge of the fabric and remove pins as you go. Continue all the way around the bottom hem, armhole openings, and neckline until you return to your starting point. Finish with a final knot by stitching backwards, and then cut the threads.

Tips

• Ironing the seams will result in a much cleaner hem.
• When sewing, start at a non-focal point such as the side seam to keep the start and end of the seam discreet.
• You can use a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch to give the fabric more stretch and help minimize fraying.

Frequently asked questions