Sewing A Tank Top Dress: A Simple Guide

Sewing a tank top dress is a fun and easy project that can be completed in a few simple steps. It is a great way to upcycle an old tank top or create a unique piece for your wardrobe. To get started, you will need a tank top, fabric, a sewing machine, and basic sewing skills. The type of fabric you use is important – a knit fabric with two-way stretch and elastane is ideal. You can use patterns or freehand the design based on your measurements. Once you have the pattern and fabric ready, you can cut and sew the pieces together, creating a comfortable and stylish tank top dress.

Choosing the right fabric

Fabric Type

Select a fabric that is comfortable, breathable, and easy to work with. Natural fabrics like cotton or linen are excellent choices as they are soft, lightweight, and perfect for warm weather. These fabrics are also durable and easy to care for. Additionally, linen is known for its elegant drape, making it a great choice for a tank top dress.

Fabric Weight and Stretch

Consider the weight and stretch of the fabric. For a tank top dress, you'll want to choose a fabric with a light to medium weight. This will ensure the dress is comfortable and flattering. Look for fabrics with a two-way stretch and elastane for added comfort and ease of movement. Ribbed knits, brushed poly, or French terry are great options that offer the right balance of stretch and structure.

Fabric Pattern and Colour

The pattern and colour of the fabric will play a significant role in the overall aesthetic of the dress. If you're a beginner, it's advisable to choose a solid colour or a simple pattern as these are more forgiving and easier to work with. Busy patterns or intricate designs may be more challenging to match up during the cutting and sewing process.

Fabric Amount

Ensure you purchase the correct amount of fabric. The amount needed will depend on the desired length of the dress and your body measurements. As a general rule, a tank top dress requires more fabric than a standard tank top to accommodate the additional length. Measure the desired length of the dress and calculate the required fabric amount accordingly.

Fabric Care

Consider the care instructions for the fabric. Some fabrics may require special care, such as hand washing or dry cleaning. If you're looking for a low-maintenance option, choose a fabric that is machine washable and easy to care for. Natural fabrics like cotton and linen are generally easy to care for and can be washed and dried at home.

Sample Fabrics

• Yarn-dyed linen (in black, flax, or charcoal)
• Linen blend fabric (in denim)
• Cotton chambray washed denim
• Brushed poly
• French terry

Drafting the pattern

The first step in sewing a tank top dress is to draft the pattern. This can be done by either using an existing tank top as a guide or by taking measurements and drawing the pattern freehand. Here are the steps for each method:

Using an existing tank top as a guide:

• Find a basic tank top that fits well and fold it in half vertically, making sure the front neckline remains visible.
• Place the tank top on a large piece of paper and trace around its outline, adding a 1/2-inch seam allowance by drawing a second outline outside the first.
• For the back pattern piece, carefully fold the back neckline between the straps and trace the outline again, adding the seam allowance.
• Cut out both pattern pieces, including the seam allowances, and label them "Back" and "Front."

Taking measurements and drawing the pattern freehand:

• Take measurements of the bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length.
• Draw a rectangle with a height matching the desired length and a width matching half the bust/chest size.
• To create the neck and armhole openings, mark specific points on the rectangle based on the measurements and draw curved lines to connect them, forming the neckline and armhole.
• Sketch a seam allowance of 1/2 inch around the finished outline.
• Repeat this process for the back pattern piece, making sure the back neckline is higher than the front.
• Cut out both pattern pieces along the outside perimeter of the seam allowances and label them accordingly.

Cutting the fabric:

Once the pattern pieces are ready, it's time to cut the fabric. Here's how:

• Fold the fabric in half and place the pattern pieces on the same side of the fabric, lining up the "fold" marks with the fabric fold.
• Pin the pattern pieces in place and use a fabric pencil or chalk to trace the outline onto the fabric.
• Cut out the fabric pieces using pinking shears or standard scissors, then unpin and unfold them.

Cutting the fabric

The first step in sewing a tank top dress is to cut the fabric according to the desired pattern and measurements. It is important to choose the right type of fabric, such as a knit fabric with a two-way stretch and elastane. Fabrics like ribbed knits, brushed poly, or French terry are ideal for this project.

Before cutting the fabric, it is recommended to assemble the pattern pieces, including the front and back pieces, as well as the front and back lining patterns. Lay the fabric out flat and place the pattern pieces on top, ensuring they are positioned correctly. Cut the fabric carefully along the outline of the pattern pieces, taking into account any seam allowances that may be required.

When cutting the fabric, it is often helpful to fold the fabric in half before cutting to manage large pieces of fabric more easily. This will result in two rectangles or squares, depending on the measurements and desired shape of the dress.

For a child's tank top dress, measure the desired length of the skirt by having the child try on the tank top and deciding where the skirt should start. Add one inch to this measurement to allow for the seam allowance. The width of the skirt can be determined by measuring the waist circumference and adding a half-inch allowance.

For adults, a similar process can be followed by taking measurements around the bust/chest, armhole depth, neck depth, neck width, and desired length. These measurements will guide the creation of the pattern pieces, which can then be traced onto the fabric.

It is important to carefully cut the fabric along the traced pattern lines, using pinking shears or standard scissors. Once the fabric pieces are cut, they can be pinned together, ready for sewing.

Sewing the seams

• Prepare the fabric: Before you begin sewing, ensure that your fabric is pre-washed and pressed. This will prevent any shrinkage or wrinkling after the dress is complete.
• Pin the fabric: Place the front and back pieces of the dress with their right sides together. Use pins to secure the fabric and ensure that the shoulder seams, armhole areas, and side seams are all aligned.
• Sew the seams: Starting with the shoulder seams, carefully sew along the pinned edges. Use a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch, depending on the type of fabric you are using. A zigzag stitch is ideal for stretchy fabrics as it allows for more stretch and helps prevent fraying.
• Press the seams: Once the seams are sewn, press them with an iron to create a neat finish. For the shoulder seams, press the seam allowance of the dress and its lining in opposite directions to reduce bulkiness.
• Secure the lining: Pin the lining to the dress at the neckline, ensuring that the shoulder seams and centers of the back and front neckline match. Sew along the neckline, securing the lining in place.
• Understitch the lining: To prevent the lining from rolling outwards, understitch it about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. Fold the seam allowance towards the lining and stitch, following the previous sewing line as a guide.
• Finish the armholes: Use the burrito method to finish the armholes neatly. Roll the armhole of one side of the dress towards the opposite shoulder, and then pin it in place. Repeat this process for the other armhole. Sew using a serger or a narrow zigzag stitch, and then press and cool the armholes to eliminate any waviness.

Following these steps will help you create strong and neat seams for your tank top dress, ensuring a professional-looking finish.

Hemming the dress

Hemming the tank top dress is the final step in the sewing process. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:

Step 1 - Measuring and Cutting:

Before cutting the fabric for the dress, it is recommended to let the dress hang overnight. This will allow any stretch or fullness in the fabric to drop, ensuring a more accurate cut for the hem. The next step is to try on the dress and decide on the desired length. There is no hard and fast rule for this, as it depends on your body type and personal preference. However, it is generally recommended to add at least 1 to 2 inches (2 to 5 cms) of fabric below the desired hem length for the hem seam allowance. For a straight hem, a 1-inch (2.5 cm) seam allowance is usually sufficient, allowing for a double-fold hem. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut the fabric straight along the hem allowance line.

Step 2 - Press the Hem:

Turn the raw edge of the hem over twice to create a neat finish. This is called a double-fold hem. The width of each fold does not need to be equal; the first fold can be narrower than the second. Doing a double fold adds weight to the hem and prevents the raw edge from fraying. If you have added a 1-inch (2.5 cm) hem seam allowance, press the hem first by 1/4 inch (6mm) and then by 3/4 inch (2 cm) again. For curved hems, it is easier to manage smaller turnovers due to the extra fullness.

Step 3 - Pin and Double-Check:

Measure all around the hem to ensure that the turned-up portion is accurate, and then pin it in place vertically. Ease the hem on the curves if necessary. You can baste the hem or rely solely on the pins, depending on your level of experience. It is a good idea to do a final fitting at this stage to ensure the hem length is correct.

Step 4 - Stitch the Hem:

Use a straight stitch to sew the edge of the hem. The stitch length will depend on the thickness and type of fabric you are using; a standard length is 2.5. Allow the hem to 'drop' and even out, as some fabrics need time to settle. Finally, press the hem to achieve the desired drape and flare of the skirt.

Additional Tips:

• If you are using a stretchy fabric, such as a knit, for your tank top dress, it is recommended to use a ballpoint needle and a slightly stretched stitch when sewing the hem. This will allow the fabric to maintain its stretch and prevent it from breaking.
• For a more decorative finish, consider using a contrasting colour thread or adding embellishments to your hem.

Frequently asked questions