Crafting A Classic: Mastering The Art Of Sewing A Wool Coat

Sewing a wool coat is a challenging but rewarding project. It requires a good understanding of basic sewing techniques and a significant time investment. The process involves selecting the right fabric, pattern, and notions, as well as careful cutting and sewing. Wool is a recommended fabric for coats due to its warmth and ease of working with. It is important to select a suitable pattern with simple sleeves and a plain front, avoiding complex details like darts or fancy seam lines. The coat pattern should also match your current sewing skill level. Before beginning to sew, it is crucial to make a coat plan that considers the different tailoring methods, interfacing, and lining options. Preparing the fabric, cutting, and pressing seams are essential steps in the process. Sewing a wool coat can be intimidating, but with patience and attention to detail, it is possible to create a professional-looking coat that is both warm and unique.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your wool coat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, it is important to select a fabric that is suitable for coat-making, also known as a "coating". Coating fabrics are typically heavier and more durable than regular fabrics, and they may have different compositions, including wool, cotton, synthetic fibres, or blends of these materials.

The weight of the fabric is an important consideration. Heavier fabrics, such as those with a weight of 490 gr/m2 or more, are ideal for sewing winter coats as they provide warmth and structure. Lighter-weight fabrics, such as those around 350 gr/m2, are better suited for light jackets. The composition of the fabric also plays a role in its warmth and breathability. Pure wool is a popular choice for winter coats as it is insulating, breathable, and comfortable. However, wool is often blended with other fibres such as cotton, polyester, or acrylic to improve its durability, reduce cost, or add softness.

When choosing a wool fabric, it is important to assess its density and rigidity. The texture should be tight, and you can test this by examining the weight and composition. Online fabric stores typically offer a range of heavy and good-quality coating fabrics. It is recommended to order swatches or samples to get a closer look at the fabric before purchasing a larger quantity. This allows you to assess the drape, feel, and weight of the fabric to ensure it aligns with your desired coat style and functionality.

Additionally, consider the care and lifespan of the fabric. Wool is generally a durable and long-lasting choice, but it requires proper care to maintain its quality. Wool can be prone to shrinkage, so pre-shrinking the fabric before cutting is advisable. This can be done through tumble drying or using an iron and a press cloth.

In summary, when choosing the right fabric for your wool coat, focus on selecting a coating fabric with an appropriate weight and composition for your desired coat style and functionality. Order swatches to test the fabric's characteristics, and consider the care and lifespan of the fabric to ensure your coat is long-lasting.

Selecting a lining

Fabric Type

The lining fabric should be selected based on the weight of your wool. For light to medium-weight wool coats, silk or satin linings are ideal. These fabrics are dense yet lightweight, providing an extra layer of insulation without adding bulk. Silk, in particular, can be a worthwhile investment due to its strength and softness.

If you're working with heavyweight wool, you can consider quilted fabric linings. Pre-quilted fabric is typically made from polyester or acetate and is easy to work with. However, keep in mind that a quilted lining will make your coat very warm, and it may be less breathable than wool. For a lighter weight lining option, you can choose a heavier-weight silk, which offers warmth and breathability.

Other lining fabric options include rayon Bemberg, an affordable and breathable choice; silk habotai, which is luxurious and elegant; and satin, available in various substrates like polyester and silk. Rayon, polyester, silk, or cotton prints are also viable options, offering a range of beautiful printed designs.

Ease of Movement

The lining fabric should allow for smooth and easy movement when wearing the coat. Look for a lightweight fabric that is a little slippery, making it easier to slide your arms in and out of the coat. This is especially important for coat sleeves.

Opacity and Colour

The lining fabric should be opaque, ensuring that the seams and inner construction of the coat are not visible. Choose a non-transparent fabric that is not easy to see through when held up to the light.

Additionally, consider the colour of the lining fabric, especially if the outer wool fabric is sheer or light-coloured. Select a lining colour that closely matches the outer fabric to maintain a discreet appearance and avoid unwanted see-through effects.

Comfort and Texture

The lining fabric should be comfortable against your skin. Avoid stiff fabrics that may reduce the overall comfort of the coat. Look for a fabric that feels smooth and pleasant to the touch, without any nubs or bumps. The texture of the lining should complement the outer fabric, creating a harmonious combination.

Care Instructions

Check the care label of the lining fabric to ensure it can be cleaned in the same way as the wool coat. Look for fabrics that can be washed, dry-cleaned, or cared for using similar methods as the outer wool fabric.

Moisture Management

If you plan to use the wool coat in outdoor or active settings, consider selecting a lining fabric with moisture-wicking properties. Fabrics like Thinsulate provide insulation and moisture resistance, making them ideal for winter or activewear.

Durability

The lining fabric should contribute to the durability of the coat, reducing wear and tear on the outer fabric. Look for fabrics that are known for their longevity and resilience.

Professional Finish

The lining fabric can elevate the overall finish of your coat, making it look well-constructed and attention-grabbing. A high-quality lining that complements the outer fabric will enhance the coat's appearance and give it a professional touch.

By considering these factors, you can select a lining that not only enhances the functionality of your wool coat but also adds to its aesthetic appeal.

Getting the right interfacing

Interfacing is a critical component when sewing a wool coat. It provides structure and stability to the wool fabric, ensuring that your coat maintains its shape and drape. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for getting the right interfacing for your wool coat:

Choosing the Right Type of Interfacing

Select a fusible "weft" interfacing, which will add the necessary stability while preserving the drape and hand of the wool fabric. Weft interfacing is ideal because it is soft and flexible, allowing your coat to move with you. If weft interfacing is unavailable, knit interfacing can be used, although it may not provide the same level of stability. These types of interfacing are typically available in sewing supply stores or online.

Testing and Preparing Your Interfacing

Before committing to a particular interfacing, test it on a scrap of your wool fabric to ensure they fuse together well. This is a crucial step to avoid any mishaps during the actual construction of your coat. If the interfacing does not stick to the fabric, you can opt for a woven, sew-in interfacing instead.

Additionally, it is recommended to pre-shrink your wool fabric before cutting and interfacing. This can be done by tumble drying it with damp towels or using an iron and a muslin press cloth to gently apply heat and steam.

Applying the Interfacing

When applying the interfacing, always use a press cloth to protect your wool fabric from overpressing and your iron from any melted adhesive. Silk organza is an excellent choice for a press cloth as it is transparent, allowing you to see the fabric beneath, but lightweight cotton or wool can also be used.

Apply the interfacing using medium to high heat, moderate pressure, and a burst of steam. The steam will help activate the adhesive and create a strong bond. Hold the iron on each section for about 10 seconds, then allow it to cool before moving to the next section.

Start applying the interfacing from the middle of your pattern piece and work your way outwards. Be sure to lift the iron when you need to move it rather than sliding it, as sliding can distort the interfacing.

Interfacing Specific Areas

Patterns usually indicate the obvious areas that require interfacing, such as collars and facings. However, for a professional finish, consider interfacing additional areas like the front, upper back, sleeve cap, armholes, pockets, and hems. Interfacing these areas will provide extra support and help maintain the structure of your coat.

Block Fusing for Small Pieces

If you have multiple small pieces to interface, consider block fusing. This involves fusing a large piece of fabric and then using it to cut out the smaller pieces. This technique ensures minimal stretching and distortion, resulting in more accurate and stable pieces.

Cutting the fabric

Selecting the Right Tools

Before you begin cutting, ensure you have the right tools. Use sharp, good-quality scissors that can easily cut through thick fabric. Electric scissors can be a great option for saving your hands from fatigue, but for more precise and tricky cuts, regular handheld scissors might be preferable.

Preparing the Fabric

Properly preparing your wool fabric before cutting is essential. Check online resources for specific instructions on preparing wool fabric for sewing. It's also a good idea to preshrink the fabric by steaming it or having it dry-cleaned. This will ensure that your coat doesn't shrink after it's sewn.

When you're ready to cut, lay the fabric flat on a large table or clean floor. Carefully lay out your paper pattern on the wool, ensuring that the grain line (arrows) runs parallel to the selvage edges. Use heavy books to hold the pattern in place while you make adjustments. Pin down the pieces securely when you're satisfied with their placement. Cut the fabric smoothly and evenly, using long scissors (at least 8 inches) to avoid jagged edges. Label each piece after cutting, noting the back side of the wool, to keep your pieces organised during sewing.

Cutting Tips

• Cut only the pattern pieces you will be using.
• Keep a consistent seam allowance (usually 5/8") when pinning the paper pattern together.
• Before cutting the fabric, try the paper pattern on over a shirt or top to check the fit. Adjust the pattern as needed by pinning and clipping tight spots.
• If you're using a centre fold, make sure it's parallel to the selvage edges.

Sewing the pieces together

Before you begin sewing, it is crucial to prepare your wool fabric properly. This includes cutting the fabric according to your pattern and ensuring that the grain line (arrows) is aligned with the fabric's length. Use heavy books to hold the pattern pieces in place while adjusting their placement. Once satisfied, securely pin down the pieces before cutting. It is recommended to use sharp scissors that are at least 8 inches long to ensure smooth and precise cuts.

After cutting, you should have various pieces, including the front, back, sleeves, collar, and facings. The next step is to interface the key areas of your coat to give it structure and stability. Interfacing is essential for a professional finish and helps the coat maintain its shape. The most common areas to interface are the front, upper back, sleeve cap, armholes, and hems. You can use a fusible weft interfacing cut on the bias for the hems, providing a crisp structure.

Now, you can start sewing the pieces together. Begin with the shoulder seams, attaching the front and back pieces together. Then, set in the sleeves, ensuring they are eased in smoothly without any puckers. Sew the side seams, joining the front and back pieces to form the body of the coat. If your coat has a lining, attach it to the body along the armholes and side seams. Press all seams for a crisp finish.

The next step is to attach the collar to the neckline, carefully aligning the center back and center front. You may need to clip or notch the curves for a smooth finish. If your coat has a hood, attach it at this stage, ensuring the hood seams are aligned with the neckline. Press the seams and topstitch around the collar and hood for a polished look.

Continue by sewing the facing to the coat along the front edges and neckline. Grade the seams and clip the curves for ease. Understitch the facing to keep it from rolling to the outside. Finally, attach the facing to the coat along the hemline, ensuring a precise match at the side seams and front edges. Press the facing and hem, and you may also topstitch along the hemline for added detail.

The final steps involve attaching any fasteners or closures, such as buttons, zippers, or snaps. Mark the placement carefully and test the buttonholes on a scrap of fabric first. Sew on your chosen fasteners securely, and your wool coat is now ready for its final press and any finishing touches!

Frequently asked questions