Mastering Dart Sewing: A Guide To T-Shirt Perfection

how to sew darts in a t shirt

Sewing darts into a T-shirt can be a great way to alter the fit and shape of the garment. Darts are seams sewn into the back of a shirt to remove excess fabric and create a more tailored, body-hugging silhouette. While darts are more commonly added to dress shirts, they can also be used to adjust the fit of T-shirts. The process involves pinching and folding the fabric to create a crescent shape, which is then pinned, tried on for adjustments, and sewn into place. This technique can be applied to various types of clothing, including T-shirts, to achieve a more customised and flattering fit.

Characteristics Values
Purpose To create a better-fitting shirt
Shape Similar to a crescent
Placement Just below the armpit down to the bottom of the shirt
Width Widest at the midsection
Stitching Same colour as the shirt, done on the inside

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Finding the right placement for darts

The placement of darts depends on the type of alteration you want to achieve. Darts are used to change the shape of a garment, whereas taking in the side seams will only change the size. If you want to remove excess fabric at the hips, take in the side seams. If the hip area is fine but the waist is loose, darts are the way to go.

Darts are typically sewn into the back of a shirt, just below the armpit and down to the bottom of the shirt, with the widest point around the midsection. However, darts can also be added to the front of a shirt, particularly for women's shirts.

When deciding on the placement of darts, it's important to consider the shape of your body. For example, if you have a slender frame, adding darts to a larger shirt will enhance the fit around your body. On the other hand, if you have a larger frame, removing darts can give you a more relaxed fit.

Additionally, the number of darts you add will depend on the amount of fabric you want to take in. If you need to take in more than 3/4 inch on each side, it's recommended to split the difference and create two darts instead of one.

When marking the placement of darts, it's helpful to try on the shirt inside out and pin the darts where you want them. This will allow you to adjust the darts as needed to achieve the desired fit.

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Marking the fabric for darts

Begin by laying your T-shirt flat on a sturdy surface, such as an ironing board. This provides a stable base for marking and manipulating the fabric. Pinch the material at two key points: first, at your waist level, and second, a few inches away from the side seam. These pinch points will help you determine the placement of the darts.

Next, make a fold of approximately 2-3 centimetres, directing the fold outwards towards the seam. Using an iron, press this patch flat to create a crisp crease. Repeat this process for the material above and below the pinch points, gradually pulling the fabric away to form a crescent shape. This crescent shape is the basis of your dart.

To secure the folds in place, insert two or three pins or needles through each fold. This step is important to ensure the folds remain intact as you continue working.

At this stage, you can try on the T-shirt to assess the fit. Be cautious of the pins to avoid any injuries. Move around, stretch, and sit down to test the comfort and flexibility of the fabric. This step allows you to make any necessary adjustments to the darts before finalising them.

If you are satisfied with the fit, carefully remove the T-shirt and lay it flat again. Using a fabric marker or tailor's chalk, mark the inside of the T-shirt along the folded edges of the darts. These markings will serve as your sewing guide. If you are marking a dart on the back of the T-shirt, ensure that the markings are symmetrical on both sides for an even result.

Once you have completed the marking process, you can proceed to sew the darts in place. Remember to use thread that closely matches the colour of your T-shirt to ensure that the stitches blend seamlessly.

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Folding the fabric for darts

To fold the fabric for darts in a T-shirt, lay the shirt flat on a sturdy surface, preferably an ironing board. Pinch the material in two places: first, where your waist will be, and second, a couple of inches from the seam. Start by folding a couple of centimetres and ironing that patch flat. The fold should be folded out towards the seam. When you pull the material, it will start to form a small crescent shape. For the best results, start your dart 7 inches from the seam.

Keep the folds in place using two or three pins. Try the shirt on to see how it fits, ensuring that the pins are not pointing inwards. If any adjustments are required, simply lay the shirt flat again and fold the material to your desired fit. You can adjust the crescent shape above or below to narrow the body of the shirt.

Once you are happy with your folds, you can start to stitch them in place. Make sure the stitching is the same colour as the shirt and that it is done on the inside so that the stitches are not visible on the outside.

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Stitching the darts

Now that you have the darts pinned in place, it's time to start stitching! Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing the darts on your T-shirt:

  • Start by sewing a few stitches in one place to secure the thread. Begin on the inside of the T-shirt so that the stitches don't show. Use a thread colour that matches your T-shirt. For a single-colour shirt, use white thread unless the shirt is a dark colour.
  • Sew small, tight stitches along the fold of the dart, moving in and out. Try to keep the stitches close together, but don't worry if they seem a little far apart—they will still hold up well.
  • Finish off by sewing a few more stitches in one place, just like you did at the beginning.
  • Do not backstitch at the beginning or end of the dart. Instead, leave a long thread tail and tie the thread tails into square knots to secure the stitching.
  • Repeat this process for each dart.
  • Press the darts towards the centre of the T-shirt using an iron. This will help to create a smooth, flat appearance.

Remember, it's important to try on the T-shirt after pinning and stitching the darts to ensure a good fit. If any adjustments are needed, simply unpick the stitches, adjust the darts, and sew them again.

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Pressing the darts

Preparation for Pressing:

Before you begin pressing, it is essential to have the right tools. A pressing ham, such as a tailor's ham, is recommended for pressing darts as it provides a curved surface that helps to avoid any odd bubbles or points at the tip of the dart. Alternatively, you can use a tennis ball or the end of your ironing board, ensuring the dart lies flat. Additionally, you will need a pressing cloth to protect your fabric and a steam iron to create steam during the pressing process.

Pressing Technique:

When pressing darts, always follow the direction indicated in your pattern instructions. For horizontal darts, press them down, and for vertical darts, press them towards the Center Front or Center Back. Place the dart over the curved surface of your pressing ham, positioning the tip of the dart at the narrow end of the ham. This helps to create a smooth and crisp point. Use your fingers to gently press the dart flat, ensuring that you are pressing in the correct direction. Then, place the pressing cloth over the dart and use your iron to press it, using steam to set the shape. Remove the iron and pressing cloth, and allow the dart to cool completely before removing it from the pressing ham. This helps to set the shape and ensure a crisp finish.

Pressing Open or to One Side:

There are two main methods for pressing darts: pressing open and pressing to one side. Pressing open involves flattening the dart by sticking your finger into it and pressing it open on both sides of the seam. This technique is suitable for darts with large intake, as it helps the dart appear more balanced from the outside. Pressing to one side is the more common method and involves pressing the dart towards the center or in the direction indicated by your pattern. Always press horizontal darts down and vertical darts towards the Center Front or Center Back.

Clipping and Pressing:

For thick or bulky fabrics, or fabrics that show pressing marks, clipping the dart open can help it lie flatter and disappear into the fabric. Reinforce the raw edges of the dart seam once it has been cut to maintain the integrity of the fabric. However, this method is not recommended for sheer fabrics. When clipping, ensure that you do not cut through the stitching, as this can compromise the structure of the dart.

Frequently asked questions

Darts are seams sewn into the back of a shirt to remove excess fabric and create a better fit. They are typically sewn just below the armpit down to the bottom of the shirt, with the widest point around the midsection.

Place your hand on your thinnest place at the back, which may or may not be where your waist is. Gather the excess fabric into two pinches on both sides of your back centre.

First, lay your t-shirt flat on an ironing board. Pinch the material in two places: first, where your waist will be, and second, a couple of inches from the seam. Start with a fold of a couple of centimetres and iron that patch flat. The fold should be folded out towards the seam. When you pull the material, it will start to form a small crescent shape. Keep the folds in place using two or three pins. Try the t-shirt on to see how it fits, ensuring that none of the pins are pointing inwards. If any adjustments are required, adjust the fold and the crescent shape above and below. Once you are happy with the fit, stitch the darts in place, ensuring that the stitching is done on the inside of the t-shirt so that the stitches are not visible.

Use white thread unless the t-shirt is one block colour. Sew small stitches, and don't worry if they seem far apart—they will hold up well in the wash.

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