Attaching Fur Trim To Your Coat: A Step-By-Step Guide

Sewing fur trim onto a coat is a great way to add a dramatic, cosy, and luxurious touch to your wardrobe. Whether you're working with faux fur or real fur, there are some important considerations and techniques to keep in mind. In this guide, we'll cover everything from choosing the right type of fur to cutting, sewing, and finishing your fur trim for a professional-looking result. We'll also discuss the pros and cons of hand stitching versus machine sewing, and provide step-by-step instructions for attaching fur trim to a coat, with tips and tricks to ensure a smooth and satisfying process.

Cutting faux fur

Determining the Nap of the Fur:

Before you begin cutting, it is crucial to understand the direction of the fur's growth, known as the "nap." Always keep the direction of the nap in mind to ensure a consistent look. For example, if creating a coat, you would want the fur to fall towards the feet. Mark arrows on the back of the fabric to indicate the direction of the nap, and place your pattern pieces accordingly.

Tracing Your Pattern:

Use a marker, chalk, or a marking pencil to trace your pattern onto the back of the fur, following the direction of the nap. Don't forget to add a seam allowance of at least 1/2 inch, as seams can become wobbly when fur is involved.

Cutting the Fur:

The key to cutting faux fur is to avoid cutting the fur strands themselves. Instead, focus on cutting only the backing of the fur. Use a sharp craft razor or X-acto knife to carefully cut through the backing, ensuring that the fur remains intact. Scissors are not recommended as they can cut the fur strands, resulting in a messy cut.

Working with Scissors:

If you do choose to use scissors, there are some specific techniques to follow. Start with the fur facing down, making it easier to trace and pin pattern pieces onto the backing. When cutting, let the tip of the bottom blade lead the cut, keeping it as close to the base of the fur strands as possible. Keep the bottom blade tilted upward to ensure a precise cut, similar to parting hair with a comb.

Minimizing Fur Loss:

It is normal to experience some fur loss during the cutting process, but there are ways to minimize it. Before cutting, part the fur to minimize fur loss and create a more natural look. Additionally, practice on a small swatch of the fabric to get a feel for maneuvering the blades and adjusting to the fur's reaction to the scissors.

Final Tips:

Always cut a single layer at a time, and if your pattern requires multiple pieces, mark the cutting lines for each piece individually. After cutting, gently tug apart the fur fibers to separate them from the backing. This will leave the fur strands intact, creating a clean edge.

Attaching faux fur to the coat

Attaching faux fur to a coat is a challenging but rewarding process. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you achieve a professional-looking result:

Plan and Prepare:

Firstly, decide on the width of your fur trim. The width will depend on your desired look and the style of your coat. Use a formula to calculate the width: for a wider trim, add extra allowance for seam measurements.

Cut the Faux Fur:

When cutting faux fur, it is important to treat it with care to avoid an untidy finish. Mark the cutting line and brush the fur pile in the opposite direction to create a clean line. This will ensure a full pile and minimal mess. Cut rectangles for the sleeve cuffs and collar, or modify the shape according to your coat's style. Seal the edges of the fur pieces to prevent fraying and lock the pile in place.

Attach the Fur:

For the sleeves, turn the fur inside out and insert it into the sleeve, ensuring the pieces align. Secure with tacking stitches, then sew it in place. Turn the fur to the right side and pull it up the sleeve, turning the ends under before sewing them in place. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Collar Attachment:

If your coat has a simple collar, cut a rectangle of fur, fold it in half, and place it over the collar. Sew one side of the fur to the back of the collar along the existing seam. Then, fold the fur over and sew it along the seam on the other side, creating a fully-furred collar.

Alternatively, if your coat has a more complex collar shape, you may need to modify the fur piece to match. Sew one side of the fur to the collar, ensuring the pieces align, then sew the other side to the coat body.

Finishing Touches:

Consider adding a small pin to the collar, allowing it to be closed tightly like a scarf for extra warmth and style.

Enjoy your newly trimmed coat!

Using a sewing machine vs hand-stitching

Sewing fur trim by hand or using a sewing machine are two different methods that can be used to achieve the same result. Here is a detailed comparison of the two techniques:

Using a Sewing Machine:

When using a sewing machine to sew fur trim, it is important to install a leather needle specifically designed for sewing machines. This type of needle has a wedge-shaped point that can easily pierce through the leather. A traditional sewing machine needle is not suitable for fur as it can damage the delicate fibres. The machine should be threaded with all-purpose or heavy-duty thread, which is strong enough for sewing leather. Adjust the machine to a wide straight stitch setting, with 7 to 9 stitches per 1 inch (2.5 cm). Place the edges of the fur trim under the presser foot, ensuring no fur is stuck, and sew about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the edges.

Hand Stitching:

Hand stitching is another option for sewing fur trim. To hand stitch, you will need a leather or furrier's needle, which is strong enough to pierce through the leather. The needle should be threaded with waxed nylon, carpet-weight, or linen thread, which are heavier types of thread suitable for sewing fur. A whipstitch is an effective technique for sewing fur, where the needle is inserted through one side of the skin, and then pulled through to the other side. The stitches should be spaced about 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) to 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) apart. Hand stitching can be easier than using a machine as fur can get caught in some machines, causing jams.

Advantages and Disadvantages:

Using a sewing machine can be faster and more efficient for sewing long or straight seams, but it may be more challenging to manoeuvre around smaller or intricate areas. Hand stitching provides more precision and control, making it ideal for detailed work or hard-to-reach areas. However, hand stitching can be more time-consuming and may require more skill and patience.

In summary, both methods can be used for sewing fur trim, each with its own advantages and considerations. The choice between using a sewing machine or hand stitching depends on factors such as the complexity of the project, the desired level of precision, and the time available for completion.

Preparing your workspace

Firstly, choose a suitable workspace that is clear and free of carpets if possible. This will make it easier to clean up any loose fur pieces that may fall during the sewing process. It is also recommended to wear an apron or overalls to avoid getting covered in fluff.

Next, gather all the necessary tools and materials, such as sharp scissors, a wide-toothed comb, a sewing machine or needle and thread, and the fur trim and coat. Keep a bin and bin bag close by to scoop up any offcuts and loose fur pieces as you work.

Before you begin cutting and sewing, it is important to understand the direction of the fur pile. The pile should go down the garment, so be sure to draw an arrow on the back of the fur to always know the direction. Work from the back of the fur and use weights to hold down the pattern. If the fur is thick, pins might get lost, so consider using weights to hold the pattern in place.

When you are ready to cut the fur, use a sharp craft knife or a single blade to gently slice through the fur from the back where the pattern was placed. Alternatively, you can use sharp scissors and cut slowly. Always cut each piece out separately and remember to flip the pattern to create a left and right side for each piece.

After cutting, use a wide-toothed comb to comb out any loose bits of fur and to comb the bulk of the fur towards the centre before you sew the pieces together. If you are sewing fur with a lining, cut the lining to match the fur, keeping the right sides together for a neat finish.

Finally, always test your sewing machine on a scrap piece of fur before starting on the actual garment. Adjust the stitch length according to the thickness of the fur, and use a sharp needle, such as a universal size 90.

By following these steps, you will have a clean and organised workspace, which is essential for sewing fur trim on a coat effectively.

Cleaning your machine

It is important to clean your sewing machine regularly, especially if you use it often or work with heavy or high-shedding fabrics such as faux fur. A good rule of thumb is to clean and oil your sewing machine once for every 5-10 days of use. If you use your machine daily, clean and oil it weekly. If you use it only on weekends, once a month should suffice.

Before you start, turn off your machine or unplug it, and unthread it. You will need some basic tools to clean your machine, such as a handheld brush, small brushes (usually included with your machine), screwdrivers (also included with your machine), a pipe cleaner, and a straw. You can also use a magnetic screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, and micro-tip sewing machine cleaning brushes to reach into small places.

First, remove the needle, presser foot, needle plate, and bobbin. Put the screws in a safe place, as they are easily lost. Open up your bobbin compartment and remove the bobbin and any other loose parts. Use your brushes to clean around the bobbin case and remove the fluffy bits and lint buildup. You can also use a can of compressed air to clean deeper into the mechanism, but this is not recommended as it can cause rust and electrical problems.

Next, oil your machine according to the instructions in your manual. Most sewing machines require oiling, but some modern machines do not, so be sure to check your manual. Only use oil that is recommended by the manufacturer, as using the wrong type of oil can damage your machine. Sewing machine oil is typically clear and very fine. Wipe off any excess oil and test the machine on a scrap of fabric to clear any residual oil that could spoil your material.

Finally, clean the exterior of the machine with a soft, damp cloth, being careful to avoid any mechanics or points where moisture could enter. Wipe down the presser foot as well. Once you have finished cleaning and oiling your machine, plug it back in and do a test sew. Your stitches should be even with perfectly balanced tension.

Frequently asked questions