Mending Armpit Holes: Sewing Your T-Shirt Back Together

Discovering a hole in the armpit of your favourite t-shirt can be frustrating, but it's a common issue that can be easily fixed. Whether you choose to sew by hand or use a sewing machine, mending the hole is a simple process that only requires a few tools and some patience. The type of stitch and technique used will depend on the size and shape of the hole, as well as the type of fabric.

Choose the right needle and thread for the job

When it comes to sewing up a hole in the armpit of your T-shirt, choosing the right needle and thread for the job is essential. Here are some detailed guidelines to help you make the right choice:

Needles

The type of needle you select depends on the fabric of your T-shirt. Needles come in different sizes and are described by American and European sizing. The smaller the needle number, the finer it is, and the finer the thread it can accommodate. Conversely, larger needle numbers denote thicker needles that can handle thicker threads. For example, a 90/14 needle is a common size, where 90 is the European size, and 14 is the American size.

For T-shirts made of lightweight fabric, such as cotton, choose a thinner, more delicate needle. A universal needle with a slightly rounded tip is a good option for most woven or knit fabrics. If your T-shirt is made of a knit fabric, consider using a ballpoint needle, which has a rounded point that prevents the fabric from running or laddering.

On the other hand, if your T-shirt is made of a heavier fabric blend, you'll need a thicker, sharper needle. A denim or jeans needle is ideal for densely woven fabrics like heavy twill, canvas, or heavy linens. These needles have a sharp point and a stronger shank to prevent bending or breakage.

Threads

When selecting a thread, consider its weight, which refers to its thickness. Thicker threads will create more visible stitches in the fabric. The weight is usually numbered on the spool, with smaller numbers indicating thicker threads. The three most common sizes in the US are 30, 40, and 50 wt.

For T-shirts, it's generally best to match the thread to the fabric. If your T-shirt is made of natural fibres like cotton, go for a cotton thread. Cotton thread is smooth, heat-resistant, and ideal for light to medium-weight cotton fabrics. If your T-shirt is synthetic, polyester thread is a good choice as it has good stretch and is suitable for woven and knitted fabrics.

Additionally, consider using a thread that is similar in colour to your T-shirt fabric. This will help to hide the stitches and create a seamless repair.

In summary, when mending a hole in the armpit of your T-shirt, choose a needle and thread that correspond to the weight and type of fabric. For lightweight cotton T-shirts, a thin, delicate needle and cotton thread are ideal. For heavier, synthetic blends, opt for thicker, sharper needles and polyester or blended threads.

Prepare the t-shirt

First, assess the damage. If the hole is small, you can simply sew it up, but for larger holes, you will need to add a patch. If one side of the sleeve seam is damaged, you will need to create a triangle-shaped fix. If it is a total blowout, you will need to do a diamond-shaped fix.

Next, gather your supplies. You will need a needle and thread, and possibly a patch. If you are sewing by hand, choose a needle that is suitable for your fabric. For tough fabrics like denim or leather, use a sharp, heavy needle. For soft or thin fabrics like cotton or nylon, use a thinner, more delicate needle. The thread should be about 2.5 times longer than the hole and match the colour of the fabric as closely as possible. If you are using a patch, it should be cut from fabric that matches the t-shirt in terms of colour and weight, and be about 1.5 inches larger than the hole.

Now, prepare the t-shirt. Turn it inside out, and if there are any loose threads, snip them away to create a clean edge. If you are sewing a patch, use sewing pins to attach it to the inside of the t-shirt, so that it covers the hole.

If you are simply sewing up a small hole, pinch the edges of the fabric together so that they are aligned, then insert the needle about 2mm from the edge of the hole, pulling the thread through until the knot stops the fabric. Then, push the needle back up through the fabric about 2mm further along the tear.

If you are sewing a patch, start by inserting the needle from the underside of the patch, then push it down through the fabric about 0.25 inches along the edge of the patch. Bring the needle back up through the fabric about 0.25 inches from the last stitch, creating a dotted line. Continue this stitch all the way around the edge of the patch, then sew back-and-forth lines of running stitches across the patch, keeping each row about 0.25 inches from the next.

Sewing technique

Firstly, you will need to assess the type of rip in the armpit of your t-shirt. If only one side of the sleeve seam is damaged, you will need to create a triangle-shaped fix. If it is a total blowout, you will need to create a diamond-shaped fix.

For a triangle-shaped fix:

• Turn your t-shirt inside out and expose the hole.
• Cut away any loose threads.
• Open up the sleeve seams at least an inch on either side of the hole, creating a clean, triangular shape.
• Cut a gusset—a stretchy patch that matches the fabric of your t-shirt—on the bias of the fabric. The gusset should be at least 5/8" larger than the hole in your armpit.
• Turn your t-shirt inside out again and place the gusset face-down on the triangular hole.
• Position the gusset so that the right sides of the gusset and the hole fabric edges are together.
• Pin the gusset and t-shirt together.
• Stitch the patch to the edges of the hole, leaving 5/8" seam allowance.
• Press the seams away from the gusset, then turn your t-shirt right-side out.
• Top stitch around the gusset, sewing over the seam allowance on the other side to strengthen the armpit area.

For a diamond-shaped fix:

• Trim the excess threads to create a solid diamond shape.
• Zigzag stitch all the way around the diamond to prevent the fabric from further unravelling.
• Follow the same steps as above for the triangle-shaped fix, creating a diamond shape with the gusset and hole fabric instead.

Tips:

• Use a thicker needle for tougher fabrics like denim or leather, and a thinner needle for softer fabrics like cotton or nylon.
• Use a thread that is similar in colour to the fabric to better hide the stitches.
• Double or triple-tie the knot when mending fabrics with looser weaves.
• If the thread is frayed, snip off the tip or lick it to get a cleaner tip before threading the needle.

Securing the stitch

Stitching Technique:

After sewing the patch to the edges of the hole, it is essential to reinforce the stitching. One effective method is to use a technique called "top stitching." This involves pressing the seams away from the patch and then turning your T-shirt right-side out. Stitch around the patch again, sewing over the seam allowance on the other side. This adds strength to the repaired area and reduces the likelihood of future tears.

Knotting the Thread:

When you've finished stitching, it's important to secure the end of the thread to prevent it from coming undone. To do this, create a loop with your thread and pass the needle through this loop. Pull the thread taut to create a knot. Repeat this process a few times to create multiple knots, ensuring that your stitching remains secure.

Reinforcing the Repair:

To further reinforce the repair, you can use a liquid seam sealant before you start stitching. This will strengthen the fibres of the fabric and make the repair more durable, especially if the hole is in an area that experiences a lot of stress or movement.

Stitch Direction:

When securing the patch, it's important to stitch in a direction that follows the natural lines and curves of the T-shirt. This will help the repair blend in with the existing garment seams. Try to keep your stitches as close to the edge of the patch as possible to prevent altering the shape of the T-shirt.

Using a Sewing Machine:

If you have access to a sewing machine, you can use it to secure the stitch. Simply follow the instructions for your machine to create a zig-zag stitch or a stretch stitch, depending on the type of fabric. This will create a strong and flexible seam that can withstand the movement of the armpit area.

Finishing touches

Once you have sewn the patch to the edges of the hole, there are a few more steps to ensure your armpit repair job is secure. Press the seams away from the gusset, then turn your t-shirt right-side out. Top stitch around the gusset, sewing over the seam allowance on the other side. This will strengthen the armpit area, which is prone to rips and tears due to the stretching of the fabric.

If you are using a sewing machine, finish off by zigzagging over the raw edges of the fabric to prevent it from fraying further. If you are sewing by hand, you can use a blanket stitch to finish off the edges. This will also help to prevent fraying and ensure your t-shirt hole repair is long-lasting.

If you are repairing a small hole, you can finish off by looping the needle through the final stitch to tie off the thread. Make another 1-2 stitches in the same way, threading the needle through the same hole and inserting it into the loop each time to secure the thread. Finally, snip off the excess thread just above the knot.

Now your favourite t-shirt is as good as new!

Frequently asked questions