Sewing Polo Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide To Success

Sewing your own polo shirt is a fun and rewarding project. Polo shirts are a classic, versatile, and comfortable piece of clothing. In this guide, we will cover everything from choosing the right fabric to assembling your polo shirt. We will also provide step-by-step instructions on how to sew a polo collar, one of the most distinctive features of this shirt style. With the right tools, techniques, and patience, you can create a well-fitting and stylish polo shirt that showcases your unique sense of fashion.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your polo shirt, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, the fabric should be comfortable, durable, breathable, and have some stretch. It should also be suitable for your intended use, whether it be for sports, outdoor activities, or everyday wear.

Cotton

Cotton is a natural fiber that is soft, breathable, and ideal for those who are allergic to synthetic fibers or have issues with less absorbent textiles. Cotton polo shirts are lightweight and suitable for most work or outdoor activities. They are also a good choice for colder conditions where comfort and mobility are important. Formal polo shirts are typically made from 100% cotton, giving them a more expensive appearance than other blends. However, cotton polo shirts may not be the best choice for sports activities as they are not moisture-wicking and may not provide enough warmth.

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fabric that offers excellent durability and absorbency. It dries faster than other types of fabrics, reducing the chance of sweat stains. Polyester polo shirts are often recommended for sports and are commonly used in factories or kitchens due to their stain-resistant qualities. However, polyester is not a breathable fabric and is harmful to the environment. It is also not as comfortable or durable as other options.

Poly/Cotton Blend

A blend of polyester and cotton combines the benefits of both fabrics. This fabric has more breathability than pure polyester and is less prone to creasing than pure cotton. It is durable, absorbent, and requires less laundry. Poly/cotton polos are a good choice for school uniforms as they offer comfort and ease of care. They are suitable for both summer and winter styles.

Piqué

Piqué is a traditional material for polo shirts, known for its sturdy yet soft cotton double weave with a waffle-like texture. It is breathable, moisture-wicking, and durable, making it suitable for any occasion, including sports. Piqué polos have a stylish look and are of high quality. When made from 100% organic cotton, piqué provides more diversity for athletic and casual clothing.

Jersey

Jersey fabric is commonly used for t-shirts and is now also being used for polo shirts. It has a smooth, flat, and sometimes elastic surface. It is lightweight and ideal for warmer climates or those who prefer a lightweight fabric. Jersey fabric is gaining popularity in the healthcare and wellness sectors as it is considered the most functional polo shirt material. However, the light and airy jersey material may not be suitable for polo shirts as it lacks structure and the collar may fall inelegantly.

Cutting the fabric

The first step in sewing a polo shirt is to cut the fabric according to the pattern and measurements. For this project, you will need a stretch fabric, preferably a light to medium-weight jersey fabric such as single jersey, activewear knit, French terry, or fancy knit fabric. The fabric should be comfortable and breathable, suitable for a summer wardrobe.

Before cutting, ensure you have accurately measured your body and transferred these measurements to the pattern. It is crucial to add a seam allowance of 1 to 1.5 cm to the sides and 3 cm to the bottom. This extra fabric will be used for sewing the pieces together.

For the front bodice, mark the neck width as one-twelfth of your bust circumference, rounded to the nearest whole number. The neck depth should be marked as the same measurement. If your bust circumference is 32 inches, your neck width and depth would be marked as 3 inches.

For the back bodice, follow the same process, but the neck depth should be marked as 1 inch. Cut out the necklines according to these measurements.

On the front bodice neckline, mark a line 6 inches from the middle. Then, mark half an inch on either side. From the end of the line, mark half an inch upward and draw a triangle, as shown in the image.

Cut out two interfacing pieces for the placket with dimensions of 3 inches by 7 inches. Adhere these to two fabric pieces that are slightly wider—approximately 3 3/4 inches by 7 inches. Cut them out, adding a mark half an inch from the edge. These pieces should be mirror images of each other.

Now, you will prepare the fabric for the collar. Cut out the interfacing for the collar with dimensions of 18 inches by 5 inches. Fold it in half and mark the collar according to the pattern. Adhere this to your collar fabric, cutting the fabric slightly larger (about 1/4 inch) than the interfacing. Cut the outer collar piece slightly bigger (1/8 inch) at the bottom edge.

Finally, cut the rib knit fabric for the collar and sleeves. You will need a width of 16 cm and a length of 80 cm for the collar, and a width of 16 cm and a length of 20 cm for each sleeve.

Sewing the collar

Prepare the Collar Pieces:

Start by cutting out the collar pieces. A classic shirt collar typically consists of two pattern pieces: the collar and the collar stand. You will need two of each piece, so fold your fabric to double it. It is recommended to use a pattern for accurate cutting.

Attach Fusible Interfacings:

Before pinning and cutting your fabric pieces, attach fusible interfacings to one of each pattern piece. This will give them structure and body. Test the interfacings on fabric scraps first to determine the best type for your chosen fabric.

Sew the Collar Seam:

With the interfacings in place, pin and cut your fabric pieces using the pattern. Transfer the pattern markings to the fabric, including notches and dots that indicate the shoulder point where the collar attaches to the shirt. Remove the pattern pieces and place the collar pieces right sides together. Sew the long outer edge of the collar, creating a seam. Press this seam open for a crisper edge.

Sew the Short Edge Seams:

Proceed to sew the side edges of the collar, using a shorter stitch near the point for added security. Trim away the point of the collar, being careful not to cut through your stitching. Turn the collar right side out and use a point turner or a blunt tool to gently push out the corner, forming a sharp point. Press the collar flat, rolling the seam edge slightly towards the underside.

Attach the Collar to the Collar Stand:

Line up the collar with the collar stand piece that has the interfacing attached, using the dots and notches as guides. Stitch the collar to the interfaced stand. Take the other collar stand piece (without interfacing) and press up the seam allowance on the curved edge. Sandwich the collar between the two collar stand pieces, ensuring that the wrong sides face out and the notches match. Pin this in place and stitch from corner to corner using a seam allowance of your choice (typically around 3/8" or 5/8").

Finish the Collar:

Turn the collar and stand right side out and press the round sides, working the seam towards the edge to achieve a crisp finish. Press the rest of the collar, and it's ready to be attached to your polo shirt!

Remember to follow your specific pattern instructions closely, as they may vary slightly depending on the style and fit of your polo shirt.

Attaching the buttons

Now that you have cut out the fabric for your polo shirt, it's time to attach the buttons. This process will vary depending on the number of buttons you are using, but here is a general guide:

Firstly, cut out the interfacing pieces for the placket. These should be about 3 inches by 7 inches. Adhere these to your fabric pieces, which should be slightly wider—around 3 3/4 inches by 7 inches. Cut out your fabric pieces, then mark about 1/2 inch from the edge.

Next, place one of the placket pieces on your bodice, aligning the mark on the placket with the mark on the side of the middle line on the bodice. Keep it raised by about 1/2 an inch. Mark the end of the placket piece onto the bodice, then do the same with the other placket piece.

Turn the edge of the placket and cut open the middle line. Fold the placket edge to the inside so that it is 1 inch wide from the stitching line. Repeat this process with the other placket. Overlap the plackets and bring the bottom edge inside through the cut you have made on the bodice.

Now, turn the bodice to the wrong side and pull the bottom edge of the cut and the placket ends through. This will finish the bottom edge of your placket. Fold the placket top edge inside out, then mark the folded edge. Sew through this mark, then clip the allowance. Do the same for the other placket.

Turn the placket right side out and use something sharp to point the corner. Measure the neckline edge—this should be half of the front bodice, including half of the placket, and half of the back bodice. To make the collar, cut out the interfacing to 18 inches by 5 inches. Fold it in half and mark the collar according to your pattern.

Adhere the interfacing to your collar fabric, then cut the fabric about 1/4 inch bigger all around the interfacing piece. Take the outer collar piece and cut it a little bigger at the bottom edge—around 1/8 inch. Keep the two collar pieces right sides together and sew along the outer edge. Pull it right side out, then place the outer collar down on the neckline. Sew, joining the neckline and collar with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Finally, fold the inner collar edge 1/8 inch to the inside and sew along the neckline edge. Press and fold your collar. Your polo collar is now ready for buttons!

Assembling the shirt

Now that you have your fabric, rib knit, fastener, and buttons, it's time to assemble your polo shirt! Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Start by sewing the fastener. Cut the middle of the front like a 'Y' and fold and iron the edge. This fastener will appear on the outside.

Next, work on the collar. Fold both edges of the collar a little and sew them. Then, sew the collar to the bodice, followed by sewing the shoulders to the bodice.

After that, sew up the lower sleeve and the side of the bodice, and make the slits. Sew a cuff cylinder, fold it in half, and sew it to the sleeve.

Now, it's time to attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeves to the armholes, ensuring that the underarm seams match up.

Once the sleeves are attached, sew the sides of the shirt, from the bottom hem to the end of the sleeve.

Finally, finish the shirt by sewing the buttons and buttonholes. You can also add any additional details, such as a logo or embroidery, at this stage.

Your polo shirt is now ready to be worn!

Frequently asked questions