Sewing Ruffles On A T-Shirt: A Step-By-Step Guide

Adding ruffles to a T-shirt is a fun, creative way to upcycle your clothing. Whether you're working with a premade shirt or sewing from a pattern, you can easily add ruffles to the sleeves, hemline, or neckline. The process is simple: cut fabric strips that are longer than the edge you plan to sew them to, gather the edge of the ruffle to match the length of the shirt's edge, and then sew the ruffle in place. You can also finish the ruffle's hem first and use a variety of stitches to create different effects. With just a few tools and some creativity, you can transform a basic T-shirt into a unique and stylish piece.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your ruffle, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the type of ruffle you want to sew. There are two main types: straight and circular. Straight ruffles are created from long strips of fabric that are gathered and stitched into place, while circular ruffles are made from a large ring of fabric with a hole in the centre, resembling a doughnut. The inner circle of the ring is stitched to the garment, allowing the rest of the fabric to drape down and form subtle ruffles.

Another thing to consider is whether you want a single or double ruffle. A double ruffle is created by gathering the fabric in the middle, resulting in two separate flounces that can be left flat or folded over for more volume. Mini strips of double ruffles are often used for small areas such as lingerie or cuffs.

The thickness and stiffness of the fabric will also impact the look of your ruffle. Sturdier fabrics like scuba and wool will create more volume and bulk in the gathered seams, while thinner fabrics like viscose and satin will result in softer, less pronounced ruffles. Keep in mind that the fabric choice will influence how the finished garment sits, moves, and wears.

When it comes to the length of the fabric, a good rule of thumb is to cut the fabric for your ruffle to twice the width you want it to eventually cover. The denser the gathers, the shorter the fabric will become. For the ruffle's height, decide on the desired finished height and add a hem allowance. For example, if you want a 1/4-inch baby hem, add 1/2 inch to your desired height. Don't forget to add a seam allowance at the top as well.

It's also important to finish the exposed edge of your ruffle before gathering and attaching it. A double-folded hem is a common and simple option, while using contrast bias tape to conceal the edge adds a touch of luxury and gives the ruffle more volume and shape.

Deciding ruffle length

Deciding on the length of your ruffle is an important step in the process of sewing ruffles on a T-shirt. The length you choose will depend on your personal preference and the desired look of the final garment. Here are some factors to consider when deciding on the ruffle length:

Desired Look and Style

A good starting point for deciding on the length of your ruffle is to determine the overall look and style you want to achieve. Ruffles can range from subtle and elegant to bold and playful. If you're aiming for a more subtle effect, consider a shorter ruffle length, such as 2 to 3 inches. On the other hand, if you want to make a statement with your ruffles, go for a longer length, like 4 to 6 inches. Keep in mind that very long ruffles may start to look more like a gathered skirt rather than a ruffle.

Proportion and Balance

Consider the proportions of the T-shirt and your body when deciding on the ruffle length. If you have a shorter torso, a shorter ruffle may be more flattering, while a longer torso can accommodate a longer ruffle. You also want to ensure that the ruffle length complements the style of the T-shirt. For example, a more form-fitting T-shirt may look better with a shorter ruffle, while a looser, flowy shirt can handle a longer ruffle without looking overwhelming.

Type of Fabric

The type of fabric you're using for your ruffles will also impact the length you choose. Heavier fabrics, such as medium-weight cotton or linen, may not need to be as long to create a full effect. Lighter and more flowy fabrics like chiffon or silk can be gathered more dramatically, so you may want to go for a longer length to create a more pronounced ruffle.

Functionality

Think about the functionality of the T-shirt when deciding on the ruffle length. If the shirt is intended for activewear or needs to be comfortable for everyday wear, consider a shorter ruffle that won't get in the way of movement. On the other hand, if the shirt is more for special occasions or dress-up, a longer ruffle can add a touch of elegance or playfulness.

Personal Preference

Ultimately, the length of your ruffle comes down to your personal preference. If you're feeling adventurous, you can experiment with different lengths to see what works best for your project. Remember that sewing is a creative process, and you can always adjust as you go.

Cutting the fabric

The first step to sewing ruffles on a T-shirt is to decide on the desired ruffle height. This can be anywhere between 2 to 6 inches. For example, if you want a baby hem of 1/4 inch, you'd add 1/2 inch. This way, you can fold the raw edge under twice. Also, add at least 1/2 inch more for the seam allowance at the top.

Next, measure the length of the edge you are going to sew the ruffle to. Measure the total circumference of the hem or sleeve on your garment.

Then, decide how gathered you would like the ruffle to be. Take the circumference measurement and multiply it by the amount you want to ruffle. Numbers between 1.5 to 3 are suggested, with larger numbers creating more body in the ruffle. Also, keep in mind the weight of your fabric—lightweight fabrics can be gathered more tightly than heavyweight fabrics. This will give you the length of fabric you need to cut for your ruffle.

Now you can cut your fabric. Cut a strip or strips of fabric to sew together to make the length you need for the desired amount of ruffle. If you are cutting two strips, sew them right sides together using the seam allowance you included in your measurement. Press those seams apart, then measure and pin your hem as you normally would.

If you are cutting one continuous strip, you will need to cut it long enough to go around the T-shirt hem or sleeve.

Hemming the ruffle

Preparing the Ruffle Fabric Strip:

Firstly, decide on the desired ruffle height. The ruffle fabric strip should be longer than the edge it will be sewn to, as this creates volume. A good rule of thumb is to make the strip 2-3 times longer than the edge, depending on how full you want the ruffle to be. For a more subtle ruffle, the strip should be around twice the length of the edge, while a more dramatic ruffle can be achieved with a strip 2.5 to 3 times longer.

Finishing the Ruffle's Hem:

Before gathering the ruffle, it is important to finish the hem. The most common method is a double-folded machine-stitched hem. First, turn the raw edge of the fabric in towards the wrong side, then fold it again to enclose the raw edge. Iron the fabric as you fold to create a neat finish. Place a few horizontal pins to hold the fold in place.

Machine Stitching the Hem:

Apply a straight stitch along the fold, using the fold line as a guide. Sew as close to the fold line as possible. This step ensures a clean finish to the ruffle before it is attached to the T-shirt.

Preparing to Gather the Ruffle:

To gather the ruffle, you will need to apply two basting stitches. The first stitch should be along the seam line at the edge of the seam allowance, and the second stitch should be halfway along the seam allowance. Leave longer loose threads at both ends of the basting stitches, as these will be used to create the gathering effect.

Pinning the Ruffle:

Align the basted edge of the ruffle with the corresponding raw edge of the T-shirt seam. Place a pin perpendicular to the edge to secure the ruffle in place. Wrap the loose threads from the basting stitches around the pin in a cross motion to prevent them from coming undone when you pull to create the gathering effect.

Gathering the Ruffle:

Gently pull the top basting threads on the opposite end of the pinned ruffle to create the gathering effect. Pull carefully and evenly across to the pinned edge. Continue pulling and adjusting until the gathered edge is the same length as the edge of the T-shirt it will be stitched to.

Pinning the Ruffle's Seam:

Once the gathering is evenly distributed along the edge, pin the ruffle's gathered seam perpendicularly to the edge of the T-shirt. To prevent the gathering from coming undone, cross the loose threads around the pin, just like you did before.

Now that your ruffle is hemmed and gathered, you are ready to attach it to the T-shirt!

Attaching the ruffle to the T-shirt

Now that you have cut your ruffle strips and hemmed them, it's time to attach the ruffle to the T-shirt.

Firstly, decide where you want to place the ruffle on the T-shirt. You could place it at the neckline, the sleeves, the cuffs, the hemline, or the bottom hem. If you are working with a premade T-shirt, you will be pinning the top/gathered/raw edge of the ruffle to the raw edge of the shirt's hem. If you are sewing a shirt from a pattern, measure, press, and pin the shirt hem in place, but do not stitch the hem. You will hem and attach the ruffles simultaneously in the following steps.

Begin by matching one of the side seams, aligning the raw edges on the inside of the T-shirt. Line up the raw edges around the bottom of the shirt and pin in place. Use plenty of pins to ensure you don't miss any gathers as you sew. Remember to keep the raw edges (of the shirt's hem and the top of the ruffle) lined up as you pin.

Next, gather and pin the ruffle to the shirt. If there is an existing hem, you may be able to sew right over the stitch lines with your sewing machine. Try to match the thread. Slowly hem the shirt using a long straight stitch, zig-zag stitch, or stretch stitch, being careful as you get to the pins and removing them as you go.

Chances are you will miss a few gathers as you go around. Don't worry! Take a needle and some thread and hand-sew the gathers to the shirt. Avoid sewing through the shirt fabric about the hem; instead, sew into the just-stitched stitches or into the bottom layer of the shirt's hem.

Remove the visible basting stitches, and your ruffle is now attached!

Frequently asked questions