Attaching Sleeves To T-Shirts: A Step-By-Step Guide

Sewing sleeves can be a challenging process, but it is a useful skill to have if you want to make or alter your own clothes. There are two basic methods for attaching sleeves: sewing sleeves flat and sewing set-in sleeves. The flat method is best if your garment is still in pieces, while the set-in sleeves option is for when your garment's body piece and sleeves are already sewn up. If you want to sew sleeves onto a t-shirt that is already made, you will need to use the set-in sleeves method. This involves turning the body piece inside out and slipping the sleeve in wrist-first through the armhole opening. Once you have done this, you can pin and sew the sleeve to the armhole opening, making sure that the correct sides of the fabric are facing each other and that the raw edges are lined up.

Sewing sleeves flat vs set-in sleeves

When it comes to sewing sleeves, there are two main methods: flat sleeve construction and set-in sleeve construction. Each method has its own advantages and considerations, and the choice between the two depends on the desired look and fit of the T-shirt.

Flat sleeve construction is a simple technique where the sleeve is sewn directly onto the flat body of the T-shirt. This method creates a seamless finish and is often used for kimono-style or raglan sleeves. It is a good choice for beginners as it is straightforward and does not require complex pattern drafting.

On the other hand, set-in sleeve construction involves sewing the sleeve into an armhole, creating a more tailored and structured look. The set-in sleeve has a seam that runs from the point of the shoulder, down and around the armhole, forming a shape known as the armscye. The top of the sleeve, called the sleeve cap, is curved to fit neatly into the armscye. This method requires precise measurements and pattern drafting to ensure a proper fit.

One key difference between the two methods is the level of ease they provide. Ease refers to the amount of room or flexibility in a garment, allowing for comfortable movement. Flat sleeves typically offer more ease and a looser fit, making them suitable for boxy or slouchy styles. In contrast, set-in sleeves provide a closer fit, particularly in tailored or close-fitting T-shirts.

Another distinction is the way the sleeves are attached to the body. With flat sleeves, the sleeve is simply sewn onto the flat fabric of the T-shirt, resulting in a seamless finish. On the other hand, set-in sleeves involve sewing the sleeve cap into the armhole, creating a distinct seam that runs along the shoulder and armhole.

Additionally, flat sleeves are often associated with certain sleeve styles, such as kimono or raglan sleeves, which have a more relaxed and fluid appearance. In contrast, set-in sleeves can accommodate a variety of sleeve styles, including tailored, close-fitting, and bell-shaped sleeves.

When choosing between flat and set-in sleeves, it's important to consider the desired look and fit of the T-shirt. Flat sleeves offer simplicity and a looser fit, while set-in sleeves provide a more tailored and structured appearance. By understanding the characteristics of each method, sewists can make informed decisions to achieve their desired outcomes.

Identifying the centre of the sleeve

Firstly, fold your sleeve in half lengthwise. This simple step helps you visualise the centre of the sleeve more easily. You can then use a piece of tailor's chalk to mark the centre point of the sleeve, which will be the folded area at the shoulder. Chalk is ideal for this purpose as it can be easily brushed off later without leaving any marks on your fabric.

If your sleeve pattern has dots or markings, these can be used as a guide. The dots should indicate where the centre top of the shoulder will line up with the shoulder seam on your T-shirt. If your pattern does not have these markings, you will need to estimate the centre by assuming it is where the arc of the bell starts and ends on the sleeve.

Once you have identified the centre point, you can begin the process of pinning and sewing the sleeve to the armhole opening. Place the sleeve so that the correct side of the fabric is facing down towards the body piece of the T-shirt. Line up the edges of the shoulder part of your sleeve with the shoulder of the body piece.

Start pinning from the centre point you identified earlier. Secure this point to the shoulder seam on the body piece, and then continue pinning the rest of the sleeve to the armhole opening, working from the centre outwards to ensure an even fit.

Now you are ready to sew the sleeve in place. Using a sewing machine, sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the sleeve and body piece, approximately 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the edges. Remember to remove the pins as you sew, and always take your time to ensure a neat and secure finish.

Finally, repeat the entire process for the other sleeve, ensuring that you sew both sleeves on before sewing up the sides of the T-shirt.

Matching, pinning, and sewing the sleeve to the armhole

Matching the Sleeve to the Armhole:

Firstly, identify the centre of your sleeve. Fold the sleeve lengthwise and mark the centre point with a piece of chalk. Now, open up the body piece and lay it flat, ensuring the correct sides of the fabric are facing up. Take your sleeve and place it with the correct side facing down towards the body piece. Line up the edges of the shoulder part of your sleeve with the shoulder of the body piece, ensuring the chalk line falls in the middle.

Pinning the Sleeve in Place:

Start pinning from the centre of the shoulder. Secure the central point of your shoulder piece to the shoulder seam on the body piece. Then, work your way outwards, pinning one side of the sleeve to the armhole opening at a time. Ensure an even distribution of the sleeve along the armhole opening. If you are working with a pattern that has dots indicating the start and end points of gathering or easing, follow those guides.

Sewing the Sleeve to the Armhole:

Once you have finished pinning, it is time to sew. Using your sewing machine, sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole, approximately 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) from the edges. Remember to remove the pins as you sew, and cut any excess threads when you are done. Repeat this entire process for the other sleeve.

Tips for a Smooth Process:

• Before sewing, match the seam line, not the edges. It is okay to mark seam lines if it helps.
• The edge of the armscye should be shorter than the sleeve, as it is a convex curve.
• If there seems to be too much extra sleeve fabric at the top, don't hesitate to reduce it slightly for a better fit.
• Use lots of pins. Place a pin about every four inches along the sleeve head, and don't be afraid to go slowly, checking that everything is flat as you work.
• If you need to gather the sleeve, start by pinning the centre of the shoulder and the bottom of the sleeve, then gently line up and pin the rest of the sleeve with the armscye.
• When easing, stretch the opening until the sleeve fabric lies flat with the armscye, pin the middle, and repeat the process until the whole opening is pinned together.

Hemming the sleeves

Next, secure the fold by placing pins through the fabric. Place a few pins around the edges of the sleeve to keep the ends folded. Sew a straight stitch around the edges of the sleeve, about halfway down the fold or 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the folded edge. Remove the pins as you sew, and cut any excess threads when you finish. Repeat this process for the other sleeve.

Avoiding puckering

Puckering is a common issue when sewing, and it can be frustrating even for experienced sewists. Puckering occurs when the fabric bunches up or gathers, creating an uneven, wavy, lumpy seam. This is especially noticeable on shiny materials, like satin.

Choose the Right Fabric

Lightweight fabrics such as silk or chiffon are more prone to puckering. Fabrics that are stretchy or slippery are also more likely to pucker. Heavier-weight fabrics are less prone to puckering, so opt for medium-weight cotton knits, polyester spandex blends, rayon-spandex, or cotton-lycra that have nice drape and recovery.

Set the Proper Stitch and Machine Tension

Use a shorter stitch length for lightweight fabrics and a longer stitch length for heavier fabrics. Zig-zag stitches or any type of lateral stitch are more likely to cause puckers. Adjust the tension based on the weight of the fabric—use a lower tension for lighter fabrics and a higher tension for heavier fabrics.

Use the Proper Needle and Thread

Use a needle that is appropriate for the fabric. A needle that is too small can cause puckering, so choose a larger-size needle for heavier fabrics. For lightweight fabrics, consider using a microtex (sharp) needle to prevent snags. Use the lightest-weight sewing thread suitable for the fabric—for most projects, all-purpose polyester will work well.

Test the Machine and Needle Combinations

Test your settings on scrap fabric before starting your project. Adjust the machine and needle settings until you find a combination that does not cause puckers. If you are still having issues, try rethreading the machine or using a fresh needle.

Proper Pinning

Proper pinning can help prevent puckering. Pin perpendicular to the fabric edge, and place pins closer together for lightweight fabrics. For slippery fabrics, try using clips instead of pins.

Pressing

Pressing your fabric before and after sewing can help prevent puckering. Use a pressing cloth and a low heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric, and always press on the wrong side. Be sure to press each seam as you sew to keep the fabric smooth and flat.

Check Sleeve Cap Shape

Before sewing, check that the sleeve cap shape matches the armhole. Mark front armhole notches on the sleeve for alignment.

Ease Sleeve into Armhole

When inserting the sleeve, start by easing the sleeve into the armhole at the underarm seam. Distribute fullness evenly with gathering stitches or pins.

Baste Sleeve in Place

Baste the sleeve in place just inside the seam allowance. Try on the garment to test the fit before permanently stitching the sleeve.

Sew Slowly and Check for Puckers

Take your time when sewing, and check the bottom layer of the fabric often to ensure it is not folded or bunched. If you notice any puckers, stop and adjust before continuing.

Frequently asked questions