Sewing A T-Shirt Dress: A Simple Guide For Beginners

Sewing a T-shirt dress is a fun and simple project that can be completed in an evening. You can make a T-shirt dress by upcycling an old T-shirt and adding a skirt, or by sewing together a tank top and a piece of fabric. To make a T-shirt dress, you will need a sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, a large piece of knit fabric, and a knit tank top in matching colours. You will also need to know how to handle stretchy knit fabric.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your T-shirt dress, there are several factors to consider, including the type of weave, thread count, ply construction, weight, and drape. Here are some tips to help you select the perfect fabric for your project:

Weave Patterns

The weave of the fabric refers to how the threads are interlaced to create the material. Different weaves result in distinct textures, weights, and appearances. Common weave patterns include:

• Poplin (or Broadcloth): A simple over-under weave that creates a smooth, thin, and lightweight fabric with very little sheen. Poplin is often used for formal shirts as it has a crisp and elegant look. However, it tends to wrinkle easily and can be slightly transparent.
• Twill: Recognisable by its diagonal weave or texture, twill fabrics range from fine to large patterns. They usually have a bit of shine and are softer than poplin. Twill is crease-resistant, drapes well, and is generally easier to iron.
• Oxford: A basket weave pattern with a symmetrical construction, resulting in a slightly rough texture. Oxford fabric is typically used for casual or sportswear.
• Pinpoint (or Pinpoint Oxford): Similar to Oxford but with a finer yarn and tighter weave, making it more formal and suitable for everyday workwear.
• Dobby: Similar in thickness and weight to broadcloth, but with unique patterns woven into the fabric, such as stripes or dotted designs.

Thread Count and Ply

Thread count refers to the number of threads per square inch of fabric, indicated by numbers like 50s, 80s, 100s, etc. A higher thread count generally results in a softer, smoother, and more expensive fabric. Single-ply fabrics have a single yarn, while two-ply fabrics have two yarns spun together, making them more durable and resistant to wear and tear. Fabrics with a thread count of over 100 will typically be two-ply.

Weight and Drape

Consider the weight of the fabric, especially if you're making a dress for a specific season. Poplin and end-on-end fabrics are lightweight and suitable for warmer months, while twill and oxford fabrics are thicker and better for cooler days. Additionally, consider how the fabric drapes. Fabrics like twill drape well and are suitable for dresses with more flow, while fabrics like poplin have a crisp and structured look.

Cutting the fabric

The first step in cutting the fabric for your T-shirt dress is to decide on the desired length. If you are adding a skirt to an existing T-shirt, you can measure from your belly button to your desired length, usually just below the knees. Don't forget to add a seam allowance of about half an inch on both sides and the top, and a full inch at the bottom for the hem. Mark these measurements on your fabric before cutting.

If you are creating a dress from a tank top and a separate piece of fabric, the process is a little different. First, fold your fabric in half, and then in half again, ensuring straight folds. Next, fold the tank top lengthwise and line up the fold with the fold of the fabric. Mark the width of the folded tank top on the fabric. Set the tank top aside and cut through the fabric, making a thin, straight slit to your marking.

Now, place the tank top or T-shirt on a dress form or yourself to determine the desired length of the dress. You can also do this on a flat surface if you don't have a dress form. Mark a line half an inch below the bottom edge of the fabric, and then cut along this line.

At this point, you should have your fabric and T-shirt or tank top ready for the next steps of sewing your T-shirt dress. Remember to take your time and measure twice to ensure an accurate cut.

Sewing the fabric to the T-shirt

Now that you have prepared your fabric and T-shirt, it is time to sew them together. Place the fabric over the T-shirt, preferably on a dress form or on yourself, and position it where you want it to be attached. Pin the fabric in place, and then mark a line half an inch below the fabric. This will be your guide for sewing the two pieces together.

Remove the fabric and cut the T-shirt along the marked line. If you have a dress form, you can cut the T-shirt while it is on the form, as this will allow you to move it around freely as you cut. If you don't have a dress form, cut the T-shirt on a table.

Once the T-shirt is cut, match the side seams of the fabric to the side seams of the T-shirt. Tuck in the fabric as you do this, matching the centre front of the fabric to one end of the slit in the T-shirt and the centre back to the other end. Pin the fabric and T-shirt together, starting with the side seams and centres, and then pinning the rest.

Now it's time to sew! Use a zigzag stitch to sew the fabric and T-shirt together, using a half-inch seam allowance. Stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. If you are new to sewing with stretchy knit fabric, there are many online guides that can help you with this.

And that's it! You have now sewn your fabric to your T-shirt. You can now add finishing touches, such as ruffles around the neckline, or leave it as it is.

Adding ruffles to the neckline

Planning and Preparation:

Firstly, decide how tall you want your ruffles to be. A good length for a ruffle is typically between 2 and 4 inches, but you can go up to 6 inches for a more dramatic look. Add a hem allowance to this measurement; for example, if you want a 1/4-inch baby hem, add an extra 1/2 inch to allow for folding the raw edge twice. Also, add at least 1/2 inch for the seam allowance at the top.

Measuring and Cutting:

Measure the total circumference of the neckline of your T-shirt dress. Decide how gathered you would like the ruffle to be. As a general rule, the more body you want the ruffle to have, the larger the multiplication factor you should use. For example, if you want a very gathered ruffle, multiply the circumference measurement by 2 or 3. Keep in mind the weight of your fabric; lightweight fabrics can be gathered more tightly than heavyweight fabrics. This calculation will give you the length of fabric you need to cut for your ruffle.

Sewing the Ruffle:

Cut fabric strips to the required length for your ruffle. If you need to sew multiple strips together to achieve the desired length, do so by sewing the strips right sides together. Press the seams apart. Hem your ruffle by folding and pressing the raw edge, then stitching it in place.

Gathering the Ruffle:

To gather the ruffle, baste 2 lines around the top edge. Use the longest stitch length your machine has. Then, gently pull on the bobbin thread to gather the fabric. Gather the ruffle until it matches the width of the neckline of your T-shirt dress. Pin your ruffle and T-shirt dress in quarters to ensure even gathering.

Attaching the Ruffle:

Pin the gathered edge of the ruffle to the raw edge of the neckline, right sides together. Stitch the ruffle in place, being careful to match any existing stitching lines. Remove the visible basting stitches. Press the seam and admire your handiwork!

Tips:

• You can use a straight stitch to sew the ruffle unless you are working with stretch fabric, in which case you should use a zig-zag or stretch stitch.
• If you don't have a sewing machine, you can hand sew ruffles using a running stitch.
• For more even gathers, sew two or three lines of basting stitches. The more lines you sew, the more even your gathers will be.

Finishing touches

Now that the main sewing is done, you can finish up your T-shirt dress with a few final touches. First, stitch down the hem that you pressed earlier, sewing near the edge of the hem from the inside of the skirt. This will secure the bottom of your dress.

Next, you can finish the waist seam by sewing a zigzag stitch all around it. Press the seam towards the waist to give it a neat finish. You can also add a belt or ribbon to the waist to give it a different look.

If you want to add some extra flair, consider adding some trim or embroidery to the neckline or sleeves. You can also leave the dress as-is for a simple and classic look.

Finally, give your dress a final press to smooth out any wrinkles and make it look polished. And that's it! You now have a one-of-a-kind T-shirt dress that you can wear and enjoy.

Frequently asked questions