Sewing T-Shirt Material: Hand-Stitching Techniques And Tricks

Sewing T-shirt material by hand is a useful skill to have, especially if you're a crafter who enjoys working with recycled materials. It's also a great way to save money and create unique pieces. Sewing T-shirt material by hand can be done using a few simple steps and the right tools. The first step is to choose the right needle, thread, and stitch type. A ballpoint needle is ideal for stretchy T-shirt fabric as it pushes the yarns away when sewing, avoiding damage to the fabric. Polyester thread is also recommended as it has a slight stretch, whereas cotton thread can break when pulled. When it comes to stitches, a zig-zag stitch is perfect for knit fabric as it stretches with the fabric and is less likely to pucker or cause thread breakage. You can also use a mock overlock stitch, which is even sturdier than a zig-zag stitch and can be used to finish seams. With these basic tools and techniques, you'll be well on your way to sewing T-shirt material like a pro!

Choose the right needle

Choosing the right needle is crucial when sewing T-shirt material by hand. The needle you select should be compatible with the type of fabric you are working with to ensure a clean and precise stitch.

For T-shirt fabric, which is often made from jersey, a type of knit fabric, you will need a ballpoint or jersey needle. The ballpoint needle is specifically designed for knit fabrics and has a rounded tip that pushes the yarns away when sewing, avoiding damage to the fabric. This is in contrast to a universal needle, which can tear and rip the fabric. A ballpoint needle will allow you to sew the fabric without piercing through or tearing the yarns.

If you are working with a delicate stretch fabric, you may want to invest in ballpoint pins as well to hold the fabric in place as you sew.

Additionally, ensure that you select the correct needle size for your fabric. The needle size will depend on the weight and thickness of the fabric. For most T-shirt materials, a medium-sized needle should suffice.

If you do not have a ballpoint or jersey needle available, a universal needle can be used in a pinch for sturdier knit fabrics. However, for thinner and stretchier knits, it is essential to use a ballpoint or jersey needle to prevent damaging the fabric.

By choosing the right needle for your T-shirt material, you will be able to create clean and durable stitches, resulting in a professional-looking finished product.

Select the right thread

When it comes to selecting the right thread for your T-shirt sewing project, there are a few key things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is recommended to use a regular polyester thread. Polyester thread has a slight amount of stretch, which is essential when working with stretchy T-shirt material. This stretch will ensure that your stitches don't pucker or break when the fabric is stretched.

On the other hand, it is best to avoid using cotton thread. Cotton threads have no stretch and can break when pulled, which will compromise the integrity of your T-shirt.

Additionally, make sure to use the same type of thread in your bobbin as you do in the upper thread. This will ensure that the stitches on both sides of the fabric can stretch and move with the wearer.

If you are sewing with a twin needle, remember that you will need two threads for the upper thread and one for the bobbin.

By choosing the right thread and needle, you'll be well on your way to successfully sewing T-shirt material by hand.

Use the right stitch

T-shirts are usually made of jersey fabric, a type of knit fabric that stretches both crosswise and lengthwise. When sewing jersey fabric, it's important to use the right stitch to allow for this stretch. Here are some tips on choosing the right stitch for sewing T-shirt material by hand:

Choose a stitch that stretches with the fabric

The key to sewing T-shirt material is to use a stitch that can stretch with the fabric and recover its original shape without puckering or breaking. The most common stitch used for this purpose is the zig-zag stitch. When using a zig-zag stitch, choose the narrowest setting that will not pucker or stretch your fabric. The wider and longer your stitch is, the weaker it will be. You can also use the zig-zag stitch decoratively, for instance, by stretching the fabric as you stitch a hem to create a "lettuce edge".

Avoid using a straight stitch

A straight stitch has no margin to stretch with the fabric and will simply break when pulled. If you must use a straight stitch, hold the material taut while sewing, but do not pull it.

Other stretch stitches to consider

In addition to the zig-zag stitch, there are several other stretch stitches you can use when sewing T-shirt material:

• Mock overlock stitch: This stitch looks like an X or a V with horizontal lines at the top and/or bottom. It is sturdier than a zig-zag stitch and can be used to finish seams, but it uses more thread and is not suitable for smaller, more delicate pieces.
• Narrow zig-zag stitch: Set your machine to a very narrow zig-zag stitch with the stitch length equal to the stitch width.
• Overedge stitch: This specialty stitch locks over the edge of the fabric, stitching and finishing the seam in one pass.
• Straight stretch stitch: This stitch looks like three parallel rows of straight stitches.
• Twin-needle stitch: This stitch requires a twin needle and creates two parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a zig-zag pattern on the wrong side.

Prepare your fabric

Before you begin sewing, it is important to prepare your fabric correctly. Firstly, always pre-wash your fabric to ensure that it keeps its shape. Leave it to dry flat for at least a day. This step is crucial as knits can shrink in unpredictable ways.

Next, note the stretch amount of your fabric. Each type of knit fabric is different, and this will affect the fit of your finished T-shirt. Most patterns will suggest which type of knit fabric to use and may include a stretch gauge.

Then, find the direction of the stretch. When cutting out your pattern, you must always note the direction the fabric stretches most. Usually, the direction of the most stretch will need to go around the body, not up and down. Your pattern pieces should indicate the correct stretch direction. Line up the pattern piece parallel to the stretch direction carefully before cutting.

When laying out your pattern on the fabric, pay attention to the selvage and lay out your pattern pieces accordingly. Never let the fabric hang over the edge of the table as this could stretch it out of place.

Finally, choose the right needle and thread for your fabric. Stretch fabrics should be sewn with a special needle: either a ballpoint or a stretch needle. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that pushes the yarns away when sewing and avoids damaging the fabric. A stretch needle is specially designed to work with the stretchiest fabrics. For your thread, a regular polyester thread works well as it has a slight amount of stretch. Do not use cotton thread as it can break when pulled.

Sewing techniques

Sewing t-shirt material by hand requires a few simple tools and techniques. Here are the steps to guide you through the process:

Step 1: Prepare Your Materials

Before you begin, ensure you have the right materials. For t-shirt fabric, you will need a ballpoint or stretch needle. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that pushes the yarns apart without damaging the fabric. Stretch needles are specifically designed for stretchy fabrics. You will also need thread—polyester thread is recommended as it has a slight stretch and is widely available. Avoid cotton threads as they can break when pulled.

Step 2: Choose the Right Stitch

The key to sewing t-shirt material is to use a stitch that will stretch with the fabric. The zig-zag stitch is the most commonly recommended stitch for this purpose. The zig-zag stitch prevents puckering and thread breakage. Choose the narrowest zig-zag stitch possible to avoid weakening the stitch. You can also use the zig-zag stitch decoratively, such as by stretching the fabric while sewing a hem to create a "lettuce edge."

Another stitch option is the mock overlock stitch, which is sturdier than the zig-zag stitch and can be used to finish seams. However, it uses more thread and is not suitable for smaller, delicate pieces.

Step 3: Stabilize the Fabric

When working with stretchy fabric, it is important to stabilize it to prevent stretching as you sew. Lay the fabric flat on a table, ensuring it doesn't hang over the edges to avoid stretching it out of place. Pin your pattern to the fabric and cut it out using scissors or a rotary cutter. Try to keep the pins inside the seam allowance to avoid creating unwanted holes.

Step 4: Sewing Technique

When sewing, ensure you don't pull or stretch the fabric. Hold it taut and use a zig-zag stitch or another stretch stitch. If using a straight stitch, hold the material taut but do not pull it to avoid breaking the thread.

For sewing the shoulder seams of a t-shirt, stabilize the seams with a product like Pellon tricot interfacing or SewKeysE Stay Tape to prevent the seams from popping when the t-shirt is pulled over the head.

When attaching the ribbing to the neckline, fold the ribbing in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, and then in half again to mark four even points. Match these points with the pins/seams of the t-shirt, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew using a zig-zag stitch.

For attaching sleeves, mark the top of the sleeve and pin it in place, then attach it to the shirt using a zig-zag stitch.

For sewing side seams, pin the fabric right sides together, matching up the underarm seam, and sew using a zig-zag stitch.

Step 5: Hemming

When hemming knits, avoid using a straight stitch as it will not stretch with the fabric. Instead, use a twin needle designed for knits. Fold up the hem about 1" and press, then pin it in place before stitching.

Additional Tips:

• Pre-wash your stretchy fabric and allow it to dry flat to maintain its shape.
• Choose the right type of stretchy fabric for your project. Jersey fabric, for example, is lightweight and has a nice drape, making it suitable for t-shirts.
• If your sewing machine allows it, reduce the presser foot pressure to help the fabric slide through more easily.
• Try using a walking foot attachment to help prevent the layers of fabric from stretching out as you sew.
• If your fabric has curling edges, use a starchy spray and press the edges to reverse the curl.
• Take your time and don't rush the sewing process. Pause occasionally with the needle down to readjust the alignment of the raw edges.

Frequently asked questions