Mastering T-Shirt Sleeves: Sewing Techniques For Beginners

Sewing T-shirt sleeves can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and techniques, it becomes an achievable and rewarding project. Whether you're altering the length of your sleeves or attaching them to the T-shirt, there are several methods to consider. One popular approach is to wear your T-shirt inside out, mark the desired length with pins and chalk, cut off any excess fabric, and carefully sew the sleeves back together, ensuring strong stitches. When attaching sleeves, it's crucial to line up the notches on the sleeve cap with the armscye notches and pin them together before sewing. Another method, known as the cheater way, involves sewing the shoulder seams first and then pinning and sewing the sleeves to the front and back pieces, working outwards from the centre. This technique is easier but may not work for all garments. Practising on cheaper T-shirts is recommended before attempting to sew more expensive garments.

Pinning and cutting the fabric

To begin constructing your T-shirt sleeves, you will need to cut out your fabric. It is important to ensure that your cutting surface is large enough to support your fabric without letting the excess hang off. If the fabric extends beyond your cutting surface, it may cause your fabric to stretch and distort when you cut.

When preparing to cut your fabric, pay attention to the pattern pieces that will need to be cut on the fold. For a T-shirt, the front and back bodice, as well as the neckband, will be placed on the fold, and the sleeves will be cut as a mirror image. Ensure that you cut out all notches indicated on the pattern, as these will be useful during construction.

Before placing your pattern pieces on your fabric, check that the arrow indicating the stretch is going in the same direction as your fabric's greatest stretch. The greatest direction of stretch usually runs from selvage to selvage. Once your pieces are placed on your fabric, you can start cutting.

After cutting out your fabric pieces, you will have a front and back bodice and two mirror-image sleeves. Now, you are ready to begin constructing your T-shirt sleeves by pinning the pieces together.

Sewing the shoulder seams

Once the shoulder seam is sewn, open your bodice pieces and place them on your surface with the right sides facing up. Now, you'll move on to setting the sleeve. Line up the notches on the sleeve cap with the notches on the armscye, pinning or clipping the pieces together. This will help you easily identify the front and back of the sleeve and avoid sewing it backward. Start by pinning the shoulder seam centre notch and then the front sleeve notch. Finally, pin the end of each sleeve to the underarm point.

With the sleeve pinned or clipped in place, you can start sewing from one underarm, along the curve of the sleeve cap, and down to the other underarm. And that's it—you've set your sleeve!

Now, you'll want to sew the side seams of your T-shirt. Make sure your side seams are not sewn before attaching the sleeves, as you'll need to cut them open if they are. Place the shirt front and back with right sides together and sew up the side seams.

Attaching the sleeves

Now that you have cut out your fabric, you will be left with a front and back bodice and two mirror-image sleeves.

Before you begin, make sure your serger is set up for a 4-thread overlock, threaded with polyester thread and equipped with stretch, jersey, or ballpoint needles. It is always a good idea to test your serger stitches on a scrap of the same knit fabric that you will be using for your T-shirt.

You can now begin construction by placing your front and back bodice pieces right sides together and serging the straight line across the top of the shoulder with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Once the shoulder seam is sewn, open your bodice pieces and place them on your surface right sides up.

To begin attaching the sleeves, line up the notches on the sleeve cap with the notches on the armscye. Pin or clip the shoulder seam centre notch and then the front sleeve notch. The notches help to easily identify the front and back of the sleeve and avoid the error of sewing the sleeves backward. Finally, pin the end of each sleeve to the underarm point.

Once your sleeve is pinned or clipped in place, you can move over to your serger and begin sewing from one underarm along the curve of the sleeve cap and down to the other underarm. And there you have it—your sleeve is set!

If you are using a standard sewing machine instead of a serger, choose a stretch stitch. Elongate your stitch length to 5 and, if possible, reduce your pressure foot pressure. Test your stitches on a scrap of knit fabric to ensure that the fabric is not being stretched while sewing. A walking foot can help to evenly feed the fabric through the feed dogs and avoid stretching the fabric.

Adjusting the sleeve cuffs

Preparation

Firstly, put on your T-shirt inside out. This is important as you want the stitching to be on the inside of the shirt when you are done. Next, use some pins to adjust the sleeves to your desired fit. You can also use chalk or a white pencil to mark a guideline for your new sleeve length. Repeat this process for both sleeves and make sure to measure the length from your guideline to the bottom of the sleeve. Use the smallest length measured for tailoring both sleeves.

Cutting

Now, sketch a straight line from your guideline to the armpit junction and carefully cut away the excess fabric. This will ensure a neat finish and provide a clear guide for sewing.

Sewing

You can sew the sleeve back together by hand or use a sewing machine for an easier process. When sewing, start by making a good knot at the beginning to secure the thread. Then, create each stitch by going slightly back over the previous stitch before moving forward again. This technique strengthens the stitches and ensures the sleeve won't loosen. End with another knot to keep the thread in place. Make sure there aren't any large gaps between stitches, as this will be visible when the T-shirt is worn.

Hemming the sleeves

Preparation:

First, put on the T-shirt inside out to determine the desired sleeve length. Mark this length on the sleeves with pins, chalk, or a white pencil. Repeat this process for both sleeves, ensuring symmetry. Measure the length from the marked guideline to the bottom of each sleeve. Use the smallest length measured as the reference for tailoring both sleeves.

Cutting:

Draw a straight line from the marked guideline to the armpit junction. Carefully cut along this line to remove the excess fabric.

Sewing:

Now, sew the sleeve back together, making sure to create a strong knot at the beginning and end of the thread. When sewing, it is essential to go slightly backward after each stitch to reinforce the stitches and ensure the sleeves remain securely fastened.

Alternatively, you can use a sewing machine for a more efficient and easier process.

Cuffed Sleeves:

If you want to add cuffed sleeves, follow these additional steps:

• Fold one sleeve cuff in half and sew the two short ends together. Ensure it matches the size of the sleeve opening, making adjustments if necessary.
• Place the sleeve cuff over the sleeve, pinning and sewing the raw edges together all around the sleeve.
• Flip the cuff back out and press the seam.
• Turn the shirt inside out, and fold the edge of the sleeve cuff up about 1/4 inch, pressing it down.
• Fold the sleeve cuff over until it covers the seam line and pin it in place.
• Turn the shirt right side out and sew along the previous seam line to secure the cuff to the sleeve.

This method provides a neat and tidy cuff that looks good from both the inside and outside of the T-shirt.

Frequently asked questions