Transforming T-Shirts: Serging Secrets For Shorter Styles

how to shorten a t shirt with a serger

If you're looking to shorten a t-shirt with a serger, you've come to the right place. Sergers are great for sewing knits and can be used to trim and sew along the edges of t-shirts. However, they are not ideal for hemming, as they cut the fabric while sewing, which is not suitable if you want to test your alterations. In this paragraph, we will explore the process of shortening a t-shirt using a serger, including the necessary equipment, step-by-step instructions, and troubleshooting tips for common issues.

Characteristics Values
Sewing machine type Serger/overlocker
Serger function Loops thread around the raw edges of the fabric and automatically trims seam allowances
Serger suitability for hems Not ideal for hems; a coverstitch machine is better
Serger suitability for shortening t-shirts Can be used to cut the bottom off a t-shirt but will not produce a "finished hem"
Alternative machine for hems Basic sewing machine with straight and zigzag stitches
Alternative machine for hems Coverstitch machine

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Using a serger to trim the fabric

When using a serger to trim the fabric of a T-shirt, follow these steps:

  • Prepare the T-shirt: Before trimming, ensure the T-shirt is inside out. This ensures that any trimmed fabric is on the inside and not visible from the outside.
  • Mark the cutting line: Using a fabric marker or tailor's chalk, mark a straight line across the T-shirt where you want to make the cut. It is important to measure and mark accurately to ensure a straight and even cut.
  • Set up the serger: Consult your serger's manual to set it up for trimming. Ensure the knife is sharp and properly adjusted to the correct width to create a clean cut.
  • Trim the fabric: With the T-shirt marked cutting line facing you, carefully feed the fabric into the serger. Allow the serger to trim the fabric as you slowly guide it through the machine. Go slowly and steadily to ensure a straight cut.
  • Finish the edge: Once the fabric is trimmed, the serger will create an "overlocked" edge. This edge will be less likely to roll up than a raw cut. However, note that it will not look like a finished hem.
  • Hem the T-shirt: If you desire a finished hem, you will need to use a different machine, such as a coverstitch machine or a regular sewing machine with a zigzag stitch. Fold and press the trimmed edge to create a neat hem, then stitch it in place using your chosen machine.

It is important to practice on scrap fabric before working on your T-shirt to ensure you have the correct settings and technique. Sergers are powerful tools that can quickly trim and sew through fabric, so take your time and work carefully to achieve the desired results.

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Hemming with a regular sewing machine

Preparation:

Before you start, make sure you have the necessary tools and materials. You will need a sewing machine, sewing clips or pins, a ruler or measuring tape, fabric scissors, and matching thread. It is also recommended to have a sewing gauge or a piece of card stock with different measurements marked on it to help you fold the fabric evenly. Additionally, you may want to use spray starch and washable school glue sticks for hemming knit fabrics.

Step 1: Fold the Fabric:

Place your T-shirt on a flat surface with the right side facing down. Decide on the desired length of your T-shirt and mark it with a fabric marker or chalk. Then, fold the fabric up to the mark. If you are hemming a tapered garment like pants, make sure to account for the taper by adjusting the inside piece outward to avoid puckering.

Step 2: Press the Fabric:

Use an iron to press the fold and create a crisp edge. For a double-fold hem, repeat the folding process. First, fold the fabric edge up about ⅝-inch (or the desired seam allowance) and press. Then, create a second fold of the same width over the first fold, ensuring that the raw edge is hidden. If you are using card stock, place it on the fabric to help guide your folding.

Step 3: Pin the Hem:

Use sewing clips or straight pins to secure the fold in place. Insert the pins so that the blunt end remains on the fabric, while the needle-end is inserted towards the fabric, making it easier to remove them as you sew.

Step 4: Sew the Hem:

Thread your sewing machine with a matching thread color. Select a straight stitch for a double-fold hem or a blind hem stitch for a less visible stitching line. Start sewing along the top edge of the fold, working your way around the entire hem. If you are sewing by hand, use a blind stitch, catching only one thread from the outside fabric each time. Keep the stitches loose to avoid puckering at the bottom of the garment.

Step 5: Iron the Hem:

Once you have finished sewing, use an iron to press the hem flat. If your fabric can handle it, use a bit of steam to help with the process. Turn the T-shirt right-side-out, and your newly hemmed T-shirt is ready to wear!

Tips:

  • Practice on similar fabric scraps before working on your actual T-shirt to test your stitches, especially when working with knit fabrics.
  • Use a twin needle for a professional-looking hem, mimicking the cover hem on ready-to-wear T-shirts.
  • Choose the right needle for your fabric type, such as ballpoint or stretch needles for knit fabrics.
  • Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric. If you don't have an exact match, choose a lighter shade to avoid visibility through the fabric.

Remember to take your time, and don't be afraid to ask for help if you get stuck. With practice, you'll be able to shorten your T-shirts like a pro!

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Serging vs sewing

Sergers and sewing machines are different tools with distinct purposes, but they complement each other very well.

Sergers, also known as overlock machines, bind fabric together with an overlock stitch. This stitch is created with three or four different threads. Sergers also cut the fabric as they bind it, which is not the case with sewing machines. Sergers are faster than sewing machines, but they only sew along the left side of the needles. Sergers are ideal for working with garments and projects where you can eliminate a lot of tedious work. They are also great for creating a professional look and a more durable stitch.

On the other hand, sewing machines use a lockstitch, which means that a top thread and bottom thread loop and lock to create a series of secure stitches. Sewing machines usually offer more stitch options, including decorative and design-focused stitches. They are perfect for topstitching and sewing on the right side of the needle.

Shortening a T-Shirt with a Serger

When shortening a t-shirt, the main task is to create a hem. Sergers can be used to create hems, but they are more commonly used for neckbands, seams, and finishing seams. A sewing machine is typically used for the hems, especially for a double-needle attachment. If you are looking to shorten your t-shirts, a basic sewing machine with straight and zigzag stitch capabilities is a good option.

Step-by-Step Guide to Shortening a T-Shirt:

  • Measure and mark the desired length of the t-shirt.
  • Fold the hem of the t-shirt to the desired length.
  • Pin the hem in place to secure it.
  • Thread your sewing machine with a ballpoint or stretch needle.
  • Sew along the folded edge of the hem, using a straight or zigzag stitch.
  • Remove the pins and try on the t-shirt to ensure the desired length is achieved.

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Using a flatlock stitch

To flatlock with a serger sewing machine, you will first need to remove the right needle and attach the flatlock/blind hem foot to the machine. The settings for your serger machine should be as follows:

  • Needle Thread Tension: 0-3
  • Upper Looper Thread Tension: 2-5
  • Lower Looper Thread Tension: 6-9

Once you have adjusted the settings, it's time to start sewing. Start by lifting the presser foot and turning the hand dial until the line matches the mark on the machine. Ensure that you have three threads with long tails sticking out from the back of the machine. The upper looper tends to pull out of the stitching due to the tight tension, so it is recommended to hold it while you begin sewing.

For a decorative flatlock, fold the fabric, right side out, where you want the stitching to be, and slide the folded fabric under the foot. Adjust the width of the stitch by turning the dial on the machine foot so that the needle pierces the fabric about 1/8" to the left of the fold. Sew with a steady speed until the end of the fabric. When you reach the end, raise the presser foot, turn the dial to release the thread, grab the threads and pull to the side, then cut the threads.

After cutting the threads, pull both sides of the fabric to open up the stitches. The front should have stitches going back and forth, and the back should resemble a ladder. If the fabric does not open up entirely, the needle is too tight. You can adjust the looper if the top threads are too loose or tight.

The flatlock stitch can also be used to join two separate pieces of fabric. Place your fabric pieces right side out and sew the seam as instructed above. Pull the fabric apart until the seam lays flat. The fabric should overlap and lay flat.

If you are sewing a flatlock seam for something like leggings, it is recommended to first sew the seam with a zig-zag stitch close to the edge of the fabric with right sides together. Then, fold the fabric again so that the seam is on the inside and the right side of the fabric is out. Sew over the other seam with the flatlock stitch, feeding the fabric through the machine. Pull the seam open until it lays flat.

Some additional tips for using a flatlock stitch include:

  • Pinning everything securely and trimming the fabric where it does not line up exactly, as the blade is removed with this technique.
  • Testing the tension on your serger with scrap fabric several times.
  • Ensuring that the right sides of the fabric are facing out.
  • Not trimming the ends of the thread until everything is laying as desired. After stretching the fabric to lay flat, tie off the ends to prevent them from coming undone.

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Stabilising the hem

Before you start stitching, it's important to stabilise the hem of your T-shirt. This will ensure that the fabric doesn't stretch or warp as you sew, and will give you a neat, even finish. Here's a step-by-step guide to stabilising your T-shirt hem:

  • Cut a strip of fusible interfacing: The type of interfacing you choose will depend on the fabric of your T-shirt. For a lightweight T-shirt, you can use a fusible, lightweight tricot with crosswise stretch and no lengthwise stretch, such as Pellon SK135. For a standard weight T-shirt, you can use Pellon EK130, which has similar characteristics. If you're working with a very lightweight knit fabric, Pellon 460 is a good option as it's very lightweight and has multi-directional stretch. Cut your chosen interfacing into 1-inch wide strips, cutting along the "stretchiest" grain of the fabric.
  • Fuse the interfacing to the hem: Following the manufacturer's instructions, carefully fuse the interfacing strips to the hem of your T-shirt. Make sure the interfacing is securely attached and covers the entire area that will be hemmed.
  • Press the hem: Once the interfacing is fused in place, fold up and press the hem to create a neat edge. Use a hot iron and make sure the fold is straight and even all the way around the T-shirt.
  • Test on a scrap of fabric: Before you start stitching the hem, it's always a good idea to test your stitch settings on a scrap of fabric that's similar to your T-shirt fabric. This will allow you to adjust the tension and stitch length as needed and ensure that your final hem will be secure and even.

By following these steps, you'll create a stable and secure hem that's ready for stitching. A stabilised hem will help you achieve professional-looking results and ensure that your T-shirt keeps its shape and structure.

Frequently asked questions

A serger or overlocker machine is a type of sewing machine that doesn't have a bobbin. Instead, it has loopers that loop thread around the raw edges of the fabric and a knife to automatically trim the seam allowances.

Yes, you can use a serger to shorten a T-shirt. However, keep in mind that a serger only trims and sews along the edges, so you will need a regular sewing machine to finish the hem.

Sergers work well with stretch knit fabrics. You can use a serger to sew seams and hems on T-shirts made from stretch jersey fabric, for example.

When using a serger to shorten a T-shirt, it is recommended to practice on scraps of fabric first. You can also stabilize the hem with fusible interfacing before stitching. Additionally, a blind hem foot attachment and a flatlock stitch setting can help create a neat and stretchy finish.

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