Spotting Fake Levi's T-Shirts: A Quick Guide

Levi Strauss & Co. is a well-known brand that has been producing clothing for over a century. The company was founded in 1853 by Lew Strauss, a merchant and haberdasher, and has since become synonymous with quality and durability. However, with the popularity of the brand comes the issue of counterfeit products. So, how can you spot a fake Levi's T-shirt? Firstly, it's important to know that the company produces several clothing lines, so understanding the intended purpose and history of the specific T-shirt you're interested in can help identify a fake. For example, the Levis Authentics Signature line is designed for physical work and is only available in the US. These T-shirts have a different patch and no tab, so knowing this information can help you spot a fake. Another way to spot a fake is to inspect the tags and labels. The insert-tag on the pocket should have arrows pointing to the places of additional firmware, and the information on the labels should be duplicated and consistent. The branded tag sewn into the seam should have reinforced cotton material with an inscription that looks the same on both sides. Additionally, the material of the T-shirt should be dense cotton that doesn't shine through, even when held up to a lamp. Finally, the price of the T-shirt can be indicative of its authenticity—while prices vary by region, Levi Strauss & Co. clothing is generally budget-friendly and shouldn't cost a fortune.

Check the fabric: is it French denim?

Levi's clothing is made from French denim, a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile with diagonal ribbing. The fabric originated in the southern French city of Nimes, and its name is derived from the French "serge de Nimes", meaning a sturdy fabric from Nimes.

French denim has a distinct structure, with a high-density weave and relatively small thickness. The fabric is recognised by its diagonal ribbing, which forms a pronounced embossed pattern on both the front and back sides. The diagonal weave of the threads is a key indicator of original denim. If the threads are not diagonally located, the jeans are not authentic Levi's.

The fabric is typically made from pure cotton, with the exception of stretch denim, which may contain a small amount of elastic. The fabric is soft yet durable and has a slightly textured feel. It is important to note that the fabric used in Levi's clothing has remained consistent over time, with no changes in quality or appearance since its origins in the 19th century.

When inspecting a pair of Levi's jeans, look for the following characteristics:

• High-density weave with a relatively small thickness.
• Diagonal ribbing on both the front and back sides, forming a pronounced embossed pattern.
• Pure cotton composition, except for stretch denim, which may contain a small amount of elastic.
• Soft, durable, and slightly textured feel.
• Consistent appearance and quality, with no changes over time.

Examine the seams: are they straight and even?

When examining the seams of a Levi's t-shirt, it is important to look for straight and even stitching. The seams should be super high quality, with no protruding threads or poorly finished edges. Overlocking should only be used on minor seams that do not carry loads when wearing the t-shirt.

The side seams are a good place to start. These are the seams sewn down each side of the t-shirt. If these are neatly and finely sewn, the t-shirt is likely to be of decent quality. A French single-needle seam, for example, is a sign of quality.

Single-needle seams are also preferable to double-needle seams. Single-needle seams are neater and cleaner, leaving only one row of stitches visible from the outside. They are also less likely to pucker over time due to the thread and fabric reacting differently to washing. Double-needle seams, on the other hand, are often used on cheaper t-shirts as they are quicker to produce.

It is also worth examining the threads used in the seams. Levi's t-shirts are sewn with dense and "thick" cotton threads. These threads are more expensive, so cheaper alternatives often use threads that are half synthetic. To distinguish between the two, you can rub the thread with your fingernail or a nail file – cotton threads are made of thinner fibres twisted together, whereas synthetic threads are monolithic.

Finally, the seams of a Levi's t-shirt should be straight and even. The seams under the fly of a pair of Levi's jeans, for example, have a special shape similar to a triangle.

Inspect the stitching: is it neat and consistent?

When inspecting the stitching on a Levi's T-shirt, it's important to look for neat and consistent stitching that aligns with the brand's high standards for quality control. Here are some detailed tips to help you determine the authenticity of a Levi's T-shirt:

• Examine the overall stitching quality: Look for any crooked lines, ripped seams, or other defects in the stitching. Levi's is known for its impeccable straight stitching, so any inconsistencies may indicate a fake product.
• Inspect the stitching around the red "Levi's" tab: The tab should be securely sewn about 1 to 1 1/4 inches (2.5-3.2 cm) below the top of the left-hand stitching on the back right pocket. Ensure that the stitching is neat and consistent, as counterfeiters often unstitch the denim and sew in the tab to mimic authentic Levi's.
• Compare the font and size of the letters: Check the "Levi's" inscription on the tab against genuine Levi's T-shirts. The font should match, and the letters shouldn't appear too large or too small.
• Evaluate the stitching on the seams: Levi's uses dense and thick cotton threads for their T-shirts. Rub the thread with your fingernail or a nail file to feel its texture. Synthetic threads, often used in fakes, will feel monolithic, while authentic Levi's threads are made of twisted thinner cotton fibres.
• Inspect the shoulder seams: In the middle of the last century, Levi's reinforced the shoulder seams of their T-shirts with cotton tape. This additional detail can be a sign of authenticity.

Look for a Levi's tab: is it reinforced cotton with matching internal and external text?

Levi's tabs are a well-known trademark of the brand, with the small tabs being instantly recognisable despite their size. The red tab, with "LEVI'S" woven onto one side, was first introduced in 1936 and has been heavily imitated since.

When examining the tab, it is important to look "at the root". The tab should be made of reinforced cotton, with the inscription appearing the same on both the inside and outside. A flag made of synthetic material or with a sloppy wrong side are signs that the item may be a fake.

The tab should also be in the correct place. On most Levi's items, the tab is sewn 1 to 1 1/4 inches (2.5-3.2 cm) below the top of the left-hand stitching on the back right pocket.

Over time, the Levi's tab has undergone some changes. From 1936 to 1971, the tab featured a capital "E" in "LEVI'S". After 1971, the "E" was changed to a lowercase "e", making it easier for collectors to differentiate between the two eras of Levi's.

Occasionally, you may come across a Levi's item with a blank red tab, featuring only the trademark symbol. These are not defects or errors; they are intentional. As the Levi's tab is one of the world's most frequently copied trademarks, the company must produce a limited batch of products with blank tabs to prove ownership of the tab and its positioning.

In addition to the red tab, Levi's has also used other colours to differentiate between its clothing lines. The orange tab, for example, was used for fashion jeans, while the white tab was generally used for corduroy items and the women's collection. The black tab with gold lettering indicated that the item had been treated with the Sta-Prest process (non-iron).

Check the buttons: do they have Levi Strauss & Co. engraved on them?

When it comes to spotting a fake Levi's T-shirt, one of the most important things to check is the buttons. Authentic Levi Strauss & Co. buttons will always have the brand name "Levi Strauss & Co." engraved on them. The buttons should be made of silver or copper, and the engraving should be clear and easy to read. If the buttons on your T-shirt do not have the Levi Strauss & Co. engraving, or if the engraving is difficult to read, it is likely that your T-shirt is a fake.

In addition to checking the engraving, you should also examine the overall quality of the buttons. Levi Strauss & Co. is known for its high standards of quality control, so if the buttons on your T-shirt feel flimsy or look like they are made of cheap materials, this could be another sign of a fake.

Another way to spot a fake Levi's T-shirt is to check the care label inside the shirt. The style number on the care label should match the style number on the back of the waist button. If these numbers do not match, or if there is no style number on the care label, it is likely that your T-shirt is a fake.

Finally, you can also check the overall quality and construction of the T-shirt. Authentic Levi Strauss & Co. T-shirts are made with high-quality materials and attention to detail. If your T-shirt has uneven stitching, loose threads, or other signs of poor craftsmanship, it is likely a fake.

Frequently asked questions