Tailoring Sport Coat Sleeves: A Guide

Tapered sleeves on a sports coat can make all the difference to the overall look and fit of the jacket. It's a simple process that can be done by a tailor or even yourself if you have some basic sewing skills. The sleeve length will make or break the look of a jacket. Too long and it will look oversized, too short and it will appear as though you've outgrown it. The width of the sleeves is also important, and tapering them can be done to get the right proportions for your body. This can be done by tapering from the elbow down, allowing the end of the sleeves to wrap comfortably around the shirt cuffs. If you're wearing French cuffed shirts, bring one along to your fitting to ensure the tailor allows for the extra room required.

Determine the correct fit

When determining the correct fit for tapering a sport coat's sleeves, it's important to consider the style you're aiming for and your preferences. The ideal sleeve length for a professional look is for the jacket sleeve to end around the wrist bone, with approximately half an inch of the shirt cuff peeking through. For a stylish look, the jacket sleeve can be shorter, allowing up to an inch of the shirt cuff to show.

The width of the sleeves is also important. You can taper the sleeves from the elbow down so that the end of the sleeves wrap comfortably around the shirt cuffs, allowing about a finger's extra width. This ensures a clean and well-fitted appearance. If you wear French cuffed shirts, bring one along to your fitting session to ensure the tailor allows for the extra room required.

Additionally, the upper arm can be tailored for a comfortable fit. The fabric should float on the arm with about a 3-centimetre allowance, providing ease of movement when bending your arm.

When tapering the sleeves, it's crucial to keep in mind that taking away or reducing the fabric is generally more feasible than adding fabric. Minor adjustments can be made to the sleeves to achieve the desired fit without compromising the overall structure and design of the jacket.

Detach the sleeve lining

Detaching the sleeve lining is a delicate process and should be done with care to avoid damaging the coat. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to detach the sleeve lining of a sport coat:

Step 1: Assess the Lining

Before starting, it is important to understand the function of the lining. The lining in the sleeves of a sport coat serves a specific purpose. It helps the coat slide smoothly over your shirt, preventing rumpling, bumps, and other unsightly issues.

Step 2: Prepare the Coat

Lay the sport coat on a flat surface with the sleeves extended. Make sure the coat is inside out, exposing the inner lining. This will give you better access to the seams and make it easier to work on the sleeves.

Step 3: Identify the Seams

Locate the seams that attach the sleeve lining to the coat. These seams will need to be carefully opened to detach the lining. It is important to be cautious during this step to avoid damaging the coat's fabric.

Step 4: Start Detaching

Using a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors, carefully begin to detach the sleeve lining from the seams. Work slowly and gently to avoid cutting the fabric of the coat. Start from the cuff and work your way up towards the shoulder. Take your time and be precise to ensure a clean detachment.

Step 5: Continue Detaching

As you detach the lining, you may find that the lining is attached at certain points with stitches or fabric glue. Take your time to carefully cut or detach these attachments without damaging the coat's fabric. It is important to be meticulous during this process.

Step 6: Finish Detaching

Continue working your way up the sleeve, detaching the lining from the seams and any attachments. Once you reach the shoulder area, be extra cautious as this area can be more complex. Carefully detach the lining, ensuring that you do not cut or damage any other parts of the coat.

Step 7: Smooth the Seams

Once the sleeve lining is completely detached, examine the seams. If necessary, use a small amount of fabric tape to smooth and finish the seams. This will help prevent the seams from catching on your shirt and ensure a neat appearance.

Detaching the sleeve lining of a sport coat can be a delicate and time-consuming process. It is important to work slowly and carefully to avoid any damage to the coat. By following these steps, you can successfully remove the sleeve lining to achieve a more comfortable and breathable fit.

Mark your seam

Marking the seam is an important step in tapering the sleeves of your sport coat. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:

Firstly, put on the sport coat and identify how much fabric needs to be taken in. This can be done by pinching the fabric on the sleeve and determining the desired width. It is important to ensure that the sleeve will still be comfortable and allow a full range of motion after tapering. Mark this desired width with pins, chalk, or a fabric pen.

Next, you will need to turn the sport coat inside out and lay it flat on a surface. If your sleeves have a lining, you will need to remove it by carefully unstitching it. This will give you access to the sleeve seam.

Now, it's time to mark the new seam line. Using a fabric pen or chalk, draw a straight line along the length of the sleeve, connecting the pins or markings that indicate the desired width. This line should be drawn approximately 1.5-2 cm (or 0.5-0.8 inches) from the original seam. This allowance will give you room to sew the new seam without cutting into the original fabric.

If you are tapering the sleeve from the elbow down, as recommended by some sources, you will want to mark the new seam line from the elbow to the cuff. This will create a smooth and gradual taper.

Once the new seam line is marked, you can carefully cut away the excess fabric, staying as close to the original seam as possible. Be sure to cut only the outer fabric of the sleeve, leaving the lining intact.

Now that the seam is marked and the excess fabric removed, you are ready to sew the new seam. Remember to use a thread colour that matches your sport coat for a seamless finish. Sew along the marked line, creating a straight and sturdy seam.

Finally, if you removed the sleeve lining earlier, it's time to reattach it. Carefully stitch the lining back into place, ensuring it lays flat and smooth.

And that's it! You've successfully tapered the sleeves of your sport coat by marking and sewing a new seam. This alteration can make a significant impact on the overall fit and style of your jacket.

Sew

Step 1: Determine the Correct Fit

Inspect the sleeves and decide if tapering is possible. Put on the jacket and pinch one of the sleeves at the seam, starting from your armpit to your wrist. Use pins to mark where you will be sewing. Be careful not to pinch too tightly around the arms, or you will restrict elbow movement. The most critical part is usually a few inches down from your elbow. Determine the maximum amount of fabric to be taken in at this point.

Step 2: Detach the Sleeve Lining

Take off the jacket, leaving the pins in the measured sleeve. Turn the opposite sleeve inside out. If the sleeve doesn't have a lining, skip this step. If it does, cut the threads that bind the lining to the sleeve. Peel back the lining to expose the jacket's original seam.

Step 3: Mark Your Seam

Using the measured sleeve as a guide, lie it underneath your inside-out sleeve and transfer the measurements to this sleeve with a fabric crayon. Where the original seam meets the armpit, taper your marking towards the seam to blend the new seam with the old.

Step 4: Sew

Step 5: Test, Copy, Sew Again

Put on the jacket and test the fit. If adjustments are needed, rip out the stitch and adjust your measurements. Transfer your correct measurements to the other sleeve and sew it also.

Step 6: Finish

Cut off the excess fabric. Re-attach the jacket to the lining. If you tightened the sleeve significantly, you may need to hand-sew.

Test, copy, sew again

Now that you have determined the correct fit for your sport coat sleeves, it is time to test, copy, and sew again. Put on the jacket, being cautious of any pins that may still be in the other sleeve, and test-fit it. If it works, great! If not, you will need to rip out the stitch and adjust your measurements.

Transfer your correct measurements to the other sleeve and sew it also. After that, cut off the excess fabric. Now you can finish by re-attaching the jacket to the lining. If you tightened the sleeve circumference a lot, you may not be able to fit it on your sewing machine, in which case you will have to hand-sew.

Enjoy the new look of your sport coat!

Frequently asked questions