Button-Down Shirts: A Guide To Wearing Them Right

Button-down shirts are a versatile piece of clothing that can be dressed up or down, making them a staple in any wardrobe. They can be worn casually with jeans or dressed up for work with chinos or trousers. The options are endless, but here are some tips to help you style your button-down shirt.

Wear it over a t-shirt

Wearing a button-down shirt over a T-shirt is a great way to layer your outfit and create a casual, relaxed look. Here are some tips to help you style this combination confidently:

Choose the Right T-Shirt Style

Select a V-neck T-shirt if you want to achieve a neat and put-together appearance. This style will ensure that your T-shirt doesn't show under your button-down shirt. Alternatively, go for a crew neck if you prefer a more casual vibe.

Consider the Fit

Opt for a loose-fitting T-shirt that falls at hip length or higher. A tighter T-shirt might create an unflattering peplum effect under your button-down shirt. You can also try a sleeveless tee, which will give the illusion of a vest.

Play with Colours and Patterns

To keep your look understated, choose a T-shirt in heather grey or white, as these neutral colours won't alter the shade of your button-down shirt. If you want to let your T-shirt peek through, opt for colours from the same palette as the rest of your outfit to avoid clashing.

Buttoned or Unbuttoned?

You can leave your button-down shirt unbuttoned for a more relaxed look, especially if you're going for a "not giving a f*ck" vibe. However, if you want to look neat and put-together, it's generally best to button it up.

Roll Up Your Sleeves

Rolling up your button-down shirt sleeves just above the elbows adds a casual touch to your outfit. This is a great option if you want to convey a "here to get my hands dirty" message or create a more laid-back style.

Remember, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to fashion. Feel free to experiment with different colours, textures, and styles to find the combination that suits your unique taste and personality.

Tuck it in

The Basic Trouser Tuck

This is the most common way of tucking in a shirt. It is a no-thought way to do it, and it works best with a fitted shirt. Put your underwear on, then put your shirt on and button it up. Pull your pants up and button them closed over the shirttails. Your shirt ends up pinned beneath your trousers with no effort on your part.

The Military Tuck

This tuck is how the armed forces are taught to tuck in their uniform shirts. It creates a pair of folded pleats, which are then pinned flat by the trouser waist for a crisp, stiff tuck. Put your pants on, but leave them unbuttoned. Pinch each of the shirt’s side seams between a thumb and forefinger. Pull down to tug all the fabric taut. Fold the seams backward toward your rear end, creating a pleat that folds over any loose fabric on the sides. Use enough pressure to pull the shirtfront smooth and taut across your chest. Button your pants up and belt them to hold the pleats flat against your body. Depending on how much excess fabric the shirt had, the folds should sit somewhere behind your hips, underneath the back of your armpits.

The Underwear Tuck

This tuck only works if you are wearing an undershirt. In this case, tuck your undershirt into your underwear. Believe it or not, this makes a difference for how well the shirt can then stay tucked. Once your undershirt is in place, put your shirt and trousers on and tuck your shirt as you usually would.

Roll up the sleeves

There are several ways to roll up the sleeves of a button-down shirt, each serving a different purpose and conveying a different message. Here is a detailed guide on how to roll up your sleeves in a way that is instructive, direct, and focused:

The Quick Roll:

This is a simple and practical method to roll up your sleeves at a moment's notice. Start by unbuttoning the wrist button while keeping the gauntlet button engaged. Then, fold the cuff at the seam where the cuff and sleeve meet, and fold it again to cover the cuff. This roll is functional and elegant as it prevents your sleeves from getting dirty during light activity while still maintaining a formal look.

The Working Roll:

The Working Roll is a variation of the Quick Roll but is designed for heavier activity. You can choose to roll up your sleeves just below the elbow or go for a more casual "guns out" look by rolling up to your mid-bicep. Similar to the Quick Roll, unbutton both the wrist and gauntlet buttons. Begin your fold just above the seam and roll three times for below the elbow or four times for the mid-bicep. Starting the fold above the seam helps create a neater roll by spreading out the fabric.

The Master Roll/Master Fold:

The Master Roll is a classy and versatile option that allows you to adjust the height of the roll according to your preference. It is especially striking if the inside of your cuff has a contrasting colour or design. To achieve this roll, start by unbuttoning both the wrist and gauntlet buttons. Make your first fold just below your elbow, and then bring the first fold to the edge of the cuff, leaving a sliver of it visible. This roll may take a bit of practice to perfect, but it is worth the effort for its stylish and functional appeal.

The Basic Roll/Beginner Roll:

The Basic Roll is an intuitive and straightforward method. Start by unbuttoning the cuff and any gauntlet buttons. Then, fold the cuff back, using it as a guide for the width of your roll. Continue folding until you go past the elbow. This roll can be time-consuming and may restrict hand movements, so it is best suited for physical labour or situations where you need to keep your sleeves out of the way.

The High Roller:

The High Roller is ideal for showing off your upper arms and is perfect for manual work or a laid-back look. To achieve this roll, lay your shirt on a flat surface and fold the sleeve about the width of the cuff. Repeat this step, covering the folded portion of the cuff. Then, roll the sleeve a third and fourth time to completely cover the cuff. This roll works well with semi-casual or informal shirts.

The Garter Roll:

The Garter Roll involves using a sleeve band, sleeve garter, or a strong rubber band to secure the rolled-up sleeve. First, secure the upper part of your sleeve with the band of your choice. Then, pull the shirt up a few inches to hide the band under the folds of the shirt. This method helps keep the sleeves locked in place and is a unique way to add a retro touch to your outfit.

Additional Tips:

• Ensure that the rolled-up sleeves are even on both arms.
• Generally, it is best to roll up your sleeves above the elbow if you are engaging in work or physical activity, and below the elbow if you are aiming to stay cool.
• Iron your shirt before rolling up the sleeves to avoid creases.
• If your sleeves are too long or too short, consider finding a good tailor to adjust them to the perfect length.
• Avoid rolling up the sleeves of suit jackets or sports jackets unless there is a practical need to do so. It is best to remove the jacket and roll up the shirt sleeves underneath.
• Always unroll your sleeves before washing or hanging up your shirt to prevent deep wrinkles.

Pair with jeans or chinos

When pairing a button-down shirt with jeans or chinos, it's important to consider the fit, fabric, and function of your outfit. Here are some tips to help you style a button-down shirt with jeans or chinos:

Jeans

The key to pulling off a button-down shirt with jeans is finding the right balance between formal and informal. Here are some tips to help you achieve this:

• Fit: Opt for straight-cut jeans to achieve a timeless silhouette. Baggy jeans can look oversized and mismatched, while skinny jeans can make your torso appear larger.
• Fabric and Design: Choose dark-coloured, straight-fit, plain jeans. Avoid ripped jeans as they heavily contrast the formality of a button-down shirt and can look too urban.
• Tucking: You can tuck in your button-down shirt or leave it untucked, depending on the formality of the occasion. For a dressier look, tuck your shirt into your jeans, especially if you're wearing a blazer or sports coat. For a more casual vibe, leave your shirt untucked, but make sure it's not too long, as this can look sloppy.
• Footwear: The type of shoes you wear will also depend on the formality of the occasion. For a dressier look, opt for boots or loafers. For a more casual outfit, go for sneakers, but avoid bulky or colourful ones as they can ruin the aesthetic. White sneakers are a safe choice.

Chinos

Chinos are a versatile pant that can be dressed up or down, making them a great option to pair with a button-down shirt. Here are some tips for styling chinos with a button-down shirt:

• Fit: Chinos are typically straight-cut, so they pair well with bulkier footwear like mid-top sneakers or chunkier shoes. Cuff the hem of your chinos for bulkier shoes, and keep them uncuffed for more streamlined shoes.
• Colour: Chinos often come in neutral colours, so they go well with both solid colours and patterned shirts. For a casual look, pair your chinos with a plain t-shirt or a graphic tee. For a more elevated outfit, opt for a button-up shirt.
• Layering: Layering is a great way to add interest to your chinos and button-down shirt combination. For cooler days, layer a long-sleeve t-shirt under your button-down. You can also pair your button-down with a crewneck sweater or a cardigan for a sharp, casual look.
• Footwear: The type of shoes you wear will depend on the formality of your outfit. For a casual look, go for low-top sneakers or classic canvas slip-ons. For a more polished outfit, opt for boots or loafers.

Layer under a blazer or jacket

A button-down shirt can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion and what it is paired with. Here are some tips for layering a button-down shirt under a blazer or jacket:

Choose the Right Blazer or Jacket

When selecting a blazer or jacket to layer over your button-down shirt, consider the formality of the occasion and the overall style you want to achieve. For a more casual look, opt for a sports jacket or blazer in a casual fabric like tweed or denim. If you're aiming for a dressier aesthetic, a structured blazer or suit jacket in a solid colour or subtle pattern can elevate your ensemble.

Consider the Collar

The collar of your button-down shirt can impact the overall appearance of your outfit. If you prefer a more relaxed look, unbutton the collar and roll up the sleeves of your shirt. This combination works well with a casual blazer or jacket. For a more polished and formal aesthetic, keep the collar buttoned and pair it with a structured blazer or jacket.

Play with Patterns and Colours

Experiment with different patterns, colours, and textures when layering a button-down shirt under a blazer or jacket. For a cohesive look, try matching the colour of your button-down shirt with the blazer's lining or playing with complementary colours. You can also mix and match patterns, such as pairing a striped button-down shirt with a plaid blazer, to create a unique and stylish ensemble.

Layer for Warmth and Style

In cooler weather, layering a button-down shirt under a blazer or jacket provides both warmth and style. For a sleek silhouette, consider a fitted button-down shirt to avoid fabric bunching under your jacket. You can also try layering a fine knit sweater or cardigan over your button-down shirt for added warmth and texture. Finish the look with well-fitting trousers or jeans, depending on the formality of the occasion.

Accessorise Your Outfit

Complete your layered look with accessories that complement your style. A statement necklace or scarf can add a touch of elegance, while a pocket square or lapel pin can enhance the sophistication of your blazer or jacket. Don't forget to pay attention to the details, ensuring your shirt sleeves aren't riding up and creating wrinkles under your jacket.

Remember, the key to successfully wearing a button-down shirt under a blazer or jacket is to create a cohesive and intentional outfit that reflects your personal style.

Frequently asked questions