Tank Tops With Wide Armholes: Style And Comfort Tips

Tank tops with wide armholes are a versatile and popular clothing item, but sometimes the armholes can be too large, impacting the fit and overall look of the garment. This can lead to discomfort and self-consciousness, as well as restrict movement. There are several methods to adjust the armholes, including altering the side seams, adding darts, using seam binding, or inserting gussets. Each method varies in complexity and is suitable for different fabric types and styles. For instance, altering the side seams is ideal for tank tops made of non-stretchy fabrics or those with minimal design details, while adding darts works well for structured tank tops or those made of non-stretchy materials. Using seam binding is a no-sew method that adds a decorative touch, and inserting gussets is a more advanced technique that offers a creative design element. These techniques can help achieve a more tailored, comfortable, and stylish fit for your tank tops.

Altering the side seams

If you're looking to alter the side seams of a tank top with wide armholes, here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:

Planning the Alteration:

Before you start sewing, it's important to plan the alteration. Try on the tank top and pinch the fabric at the side seams to determine how much fabric needs to be taken in. You can use pins or fabric chalk to mark the new seam line. If the armholes are too wide, you may also need to adjust the sleeves or take in the fabric at the underarm seam.

Deconstructing the Seam:

Using a seam ripper, carefully remove the stitching along the side seams. Start by removing the stitching that holds the facing to the garment. This could be a bartack of stitches, several stitches in a line, or even a ribbon, depending on the manufacturer. Once you've removed the stitching, gently pull back the facing to reveal the inner structure of the seam.

Adjusting the Side Seams:

Now that you have access to the side seams, it's time to make the necessary adjustments. If you need to take in the fabric, fold and pin the fabric along the new seam line. Try on the tank top again to ensure that the fit is correct and make any necessary adjustments. Remember that altering the side seams will also affect the bust circumference, so make sure you're happy with the new fit.

Trimming and Stitching:

Once you're happy with the new side seams, it's time to trim off the excess fabric. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut along the new seam line, removing the fabric you don't need. Press the seam open with an iron to create a crisp edge. Now, stitch along the new seam line, securing the folded fabric in place. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to reinforce the stitching.

Adjusting the Sleeves (Optional):

If the armholes were very wide, you may also need to adjust the sleeves. This can be done by taking in the fabric at the upper sleeve area or tapering the stitches back to the underarm seam. If the sleeve is too wide at the cuff, you may need to take in the facings or remove the hem and restitch it to create a slimmer sleeve.

Finishing Touches:

After completing the side seam and sleeve alterations, it's important to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying. You can use a serger or a zigzag stitch to finish the edges neatly. Finally, reattach the facing to the garment by stitching along the original seam line. Press the facing towards the inside of the garment and understitch to keep it in place.

By carefully following these steps, you can successfully alter the side seams of a tank top with wide armholes to achieve a better fit. Remember to work slowly, measure twice, and press your seams for a professional finish.

Adding darts

If you have a tank top with wide armholes that doesn't fit well, you can fix this by adding darts. Darts are made by stitching pie-shaped wedges of fabric into the garment to take out excess fabric and help it fit better around the body's natural curves.

To add darts to a tank top, start by pinching the excess fabric between the shoulder and armpit with your fingers and placing a pin at the outer edge of the tank top. Continue pinching and pinning the excess fabric until you reach the fullest part of the bust, adding as many pins as needed to ensure a snug fit without pulling the fabric. Next, press the folded edge of the new dart with an iron, being careful not to touch the pinheads to avoid melting. Measure the distance from the outer edge of the shirt (the armhole) to the pins and write down the measurements.

Now, remove the pins and turn the shirt inside out. Pinch the shirt along the fold line in the opposite direction of the ironed crease. Refer to your measurements and pin the dart from the inside of the shirt, starting at the outer edge and moving towards the fullest part of the bust. Place the first pin 5/8" away from the folded edge of the dart, then move down the shirt 1 3/4" and place another pin 3/8" from the folded edge. At the 3" mark, place a final pin directly on the fold to indicate the end of the dart.

You can now sew along the line formed by the pins, removing them as you go. If the dart doesn't lay flat, you can stitch it down with matching thread. This alteration ensures that your tank top fits perfectly without any gaping armholes.

Using seam binding

Seam binding is a woven binding used to cover the raw edges of a seam allowance. It is stitched to the waist seam of a garment to prevent the waist seam from stretching during wear. Seam binding is particularly useful when constructing vintage clothing, as it was commonly used before the invention of home sergers.

To use seam binding, follow these steps:

• Cut a strip of seam binding fabric that is longer than the seam you are sewing it to.
• Fold the binding in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together.
• With right sides together, stitch the binding to the edge of the fabric.
• With right sides together, stitch the remaining seam closed, also closing the binding. Reinforce with a bar tack.
• Turn the binding to the inside of the garment, folding along the seam line.
• Edge stitch the binding in place.

If you are unable to find seam binding, you can use a thin, non-stretch satin ribbon, or a piece of selvedge from any type of woven fabric. You can also use narrow grosgrain ribbon, but make sure to use real grosgrain, as petersham ribbon has stretch.

Inserting gussets

If you're looking to make a tank top with wide armholes more modest, you could consider inserting gussets. Gussets are triangular or diamond-shaped pieces of fabric inserted into a garment to make it more comfortable or to add width.

To insert gussets into your tank top, you will need to:

• Take two measurements: the opening across the top of the armhole, and the measurement down the side of the armhole.
• On a piece of paper, make a dot in the middle to symbolise the centre back of the tank top. Take the top measurement and divide it by two. You will be making two gussets, one for each side of the tank top.
• Measure out and make a dot to the left and right of the middle dot, using the measurement from step 2. Then, measure down from the first dot using the second measurement, and make another dot.
• Connect the dots to form a triangle. This will be the shape of your gusset without seam allowances.
• Add seam allowances to the sides and bottom of the triangle.
• Cut out your gusset fabric. Place the top edge of the triangle pattern on the fold of the fabric. If your tank top has a seam in the armhole, add a seam allowance to the top edge and cut out two pieces, sewing them together before inserting the gusset.
• Press the top edge of the gusset with an iron. You may also want to add interfacing to the inside of the gusset to add stiffness and body.
• Mark the seam allowances on the gusset pieces.
• On your tank top, take out the stitches on the side seam where it meets the underarm. Remove any boning and mark which way it came out.
• Lay the gusset (right sides together) onto the right side of the tank top, matching the seam allowance line of the gusset to the stitching line of the tank top. Match the top dots to the top edge of the tank top, and the bottom dot to the point where you stopped taking out the side seam. Stitch along both edges of the gusset.
• Repeat on the other side of the tank top with the remaining gusset.

Wear a decorative bra

If you want to wear a tank top with wide armholes, one option is to wear a decorative bra. This can be a fun way to add a bit of interest to your outfit and make the bra part of the overall look. Here are some tips on how to wear a decorative bra with a tank top:

• Choose a bra that complements the colour of your tank top. For example, if you're wearing a patterned sleeveless top or dress that has black in the print, you can layer a black bra underneath. That way, the small parts of the bra that are revealed at the armholes become part of the pattern.
• Opt for a lace bralette that can be paired with your tank top. This can add a touch of sexiness and intrigue to your outfit, and you won't have to worry about hiding the adjustable straps.
• Consider the fit of your tank top when choosing a decorative bra. If the armholes are very wide or low-cut, you may need to size down in the bra to ensure it doesn't slip out.
• If you're feeling bold, you can even wear a brightly coloured or patterned bra that contrasts with your tank top. This can create a fun and unexpected element to your outfit.
• Don't be afraid to experiment with different styles of decorative bras, such as balconette, demi-cup, or longline bras. Each of these styles can offer a unique look when paired with a tank top.

Frequently asked questions