Sport Coat: Snug Or Baggy?

Whether a sport coat should be tight-fitting depends on the wearer's preference. Some people prefer a slim-fit look, while others may find a tight-fitting sport coat restrictive and uncomfortable.

A well-fitting sport coat should have clean lines all around and should not have any pulls or puckers along the front or back. The sleeves should hang naturally without any ripples, and the jacket should not have any indentations in the sleeveheads. It should also not be too loose, as this can look baggy and untidy.

When trying on a sport coat, it is important to pay attention to the fit of the shoulders, as this is one of the most challenging areas to tailor. The jacket should fall cleanly off the shoulder, with only a slight amount of the shoulder visible beyond the armhole. If the shoulders are too wide, the jacket will sag, and if they are too tight, there will be a divot on the arm towards the back of the sleeve head, known as bite.

Additionally, the length of the jacket is important. A good rule of thumb is that the bottom edge of the jacket should end between the two knuckles on your thumb.

If you are unsure about the fit of a sport coat, it is best to consult a tailor or a knowledgeable salesperson for advice.

The importance of a well-fitting sport coat

A well-fitting sport coat is important for several reasons. Firstly, it ensures comfort and ease of movement. A sport coat that is too tight or too loose can restrict your range of motion and make you feel constricted. Conversely, a sport coat that fits perfectly will allow you to move freely and feel comfortable throughout the day.

Secondly, a well-fitting sport coat enhances your appearance. An ill-fitting sport coat can detract from your overall outfit, giving an impression of unkemptness or sloppiness. A sport coat that is too tight may result in the "dreaded X", where the fabric pulls and forms an X with wrinkles when buttoned. On the other hand, a sport coat that is too loose can lead to bunching fabric around the shoulders, midsection, and sleeves, creating a lazy and unflattering silhouette.

Thirdly, a well-fitting sport coat flatters your body shape. By following the natural lines of your body, a sport coat can mask bodily imperfections and enhance your best features. This is especially important if you have uneven shoulders, an odd shape, or a broad chest. A custom-tailored sport coat will ensure that the jacket fits your unique body type perfectly.

Additionally, a well-fitting sport coat exudes professionalism and attention to detail. Men who pay attention to the fit of their clothing are generally regarded as more professional and put-together. A poorly fitted sport coat can give the impression of laziness or a lack of attention to detail.

Lastly, a well-fitting sport coat is a worthwhile investment. While buying off-the-rack can be more convenient and affordable, a custom-made sport coat will provide a superior fit that will make you feel confident and comfortable. Investing in a bespoke sport coat ensures that you will always look sharp and feel your best.

How to identify a poorly-fitting sport coat

A well-fitting sport coat can elevate your entire outfit, but a poorly-fitting one can detract from it. Here are some ways to identify a poorly-fitting sport coat:

The Dreaded X

When you button your jacket, the fabric should not pull at the fastening point, forming an X with wrinkles. This means the jacket is too tight. There should be no pulling where your jacket buttons. However, you should feel a slight pull when you close the jacket, ensuring there is no excess fabric in the midsection.

Shoulder Divots

Shoulder divots are another sign of a poor fit. They can be caused by the suit jacket's shoulders being too big, the wearer having sloping shoulders, or the armholes being too small or shaped differently. When you lift your arms slightly, the divots become extremely visible right below the shoulder seam.

Collar Gap

The jacket's collar should follow the line of your shirt collar exactly, with no gap between the two. A collar gap can be caused by the jacket not fitting properly in the chest or back, the neck being too big, or the wearer having forward-leaning shoulders.

Weird Shoulder Rumpling

Shoulder rumpling can occur when the jacket's shoulders are too big, or the jacket is not constructed to accommodate the wearer's natural stance. It can also happen when the wearer's shoulders do not fill out the jacket's shoulder area, causing the fabric to dip or wrinkle.

Sleeve Pitch

The positioning of the jacket's sleeve relative to your arm's neutral position is important. If you notice wrinkling in the sleeves when your arms are in a neutral stance, your sleeve pitch may be off. This can happen when the sleeve's positioning and the arm's neutral positioning don't align.

In addition to these signs, look for loose, bunching fabric around the shoulders, midsection, and sleeves. A gap at the collar, and divots at the shoulders are also indicators of a poor fit. Trust your instincts—if the coat doesn't look quite right, it probably isn't.

The pros and cons of a custom-made sport coat

A custom-made sport coat is a great addition to any wardrobe. It is a versatile garment that can be dressed up or down and is perfect for those who want to dress professionally in more casual environments. Here are some pros and cons of investing in a custom-made sport coat.

Pros:

• A custom sport coat will be tailored to your unique body shape and measurements, ensuring a perfect fit. This will make you appear more "put together" and professional.
• You can choose the fabric, lining, lapels, threads, buttons, and pocket styles to create a truly unique garment that complements your personal style and existing wardrobe.
• A custom sport coat allows you to transition seamlessly from business to casual. It can be paired with a tie and slacks for a more formal look or dressed down with a nice pair of jeans for a smart-casual outfit.
• With a custom sport coat, you can be sure that the length is just right for your height and proportions. This is something that can be tricky to get right with off-the-rack options and is often expensive to alter.
• The process of having a custom sport coat made often involves multiple fittings, ensuring that the final garment fits you perfectly and enhances your best features while masking any bodily imperfections.

Cons:

• The biggest drawback of a custom-made sport coat is the cost. Bespoke tailoring is a time-consuming and expensive craft, with prices starting at $650 for made-to-measure and upwards of $1795 for full bespoke.
• It can be challenging to find a reputable bespoke tailor, as there aren't many around anymore. You may need to schedule appointments with multiple tailors and try on various models and brands before finding the right one for you.
• Altering a custom sport coat after it has been made can be difficult and costly. While a tailor can make minor adjustments, significant changes to the length or width may alter the proportions of the coat and affect its overall appearance.

The high cost of a bespoke sport coat

A well-fitting sport coat is an essential part of any wardrobe. While off-the-rack options are available, going custom is the best way to ensure a perfect fit. However, the cost of a bespoke sport coat can be high, often starting at $1795 and going upwards of $5000. So, what factors contribute to this high cost?

Firstly, the construction of a bespoke sport coat is a meticulous and time-consuming process. It involves multiple fittings and can take a tailor anywhere from 50 to 100 working hours to complete a single coat. This level of craftsmanship commands a premium price.

Secondly, the materials used in a bespoke sport coat are of the finest quality. Bespoke tailors source their fabrics from the world's leading mills, such as Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, and Loro Piana. These high-end fabrics come at a higher cost, which is reflected in the final price of the sport coat.

In addition to the cost of materials and labour, the bespoke experience also includes design consultations and custom measurements. Tailors work closely with their clients to create a unique sport coat that reflects their personality and style. This level of customization and attention to detail is a significant factor in the overall cost.

Furthermore, the option to go bespoke is not widely available due to the dwindling number of bespoke tailors. The craft of bespoke tailoring is becoming rarer, and those who practice it charge a premium for their specialized skills.

While the cost of a bespoke sport coat may be high, the benefits are significant. A well-fitting sport coat can transform your entire wardrobe, offering versatility and style. It can be dressed up or down, making it a worthwhile investment for those who want to dress to impress.

How to find the right sport coat for your body type

When it comes to finding the right sport coat for your body type, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, it is essential to get the correct measurements, including your shoulder width, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Here is a guide on how to measure your body for a sport coat:

• Shoulder width: Stand in front of a mirror and wrap the measuring tape around your shoulders at the widest point, with the end of the tape touching the tip of your shoulder. Double this measurement to get the total width of your shoulders.
• Chest circumference: Wrap the tape around your chest at its widest point, usually right under your armpits, ensuring it is snug but not too tight.
• Waist circumference: Wrap the tape around your waist at its narrowest point, again ensuring a comfortable fit.

Once you have these measurements, you can refer to the size charts provided by most brands to determine your size. However, it is worth noting that not all brands use the same sizing, and some may use vanity sizing, so it is always good to double-check by trying on the sport coat.

In addition to measurements, here are some other key factors to consider when choosing a sport coat that flatters your body type:

• Fabric: Choose a lightweight fabric like cotton or linen for spring and summer, and opt for heavier fabrics like suede, denim, or tweed for fall and winter.
• Buttons: Sport coats typically have two or three buttons, but this can vary. Ensure the sport coat has at least two buttons, and remember to fasten all except the bottom one when wearing it.
• Colour: Neutral colours like charcoal grey, taupe, or beige are timeless and versatile choices that match various styles and colours.
• Pockets: Most sport coats feature two pockets, but you can opt for more pockets for a modern style.
• Fit: Avoid a sport coat that is too tight or too loose. A tailor can help adjust the fit if needed.

For specific body types, here are some additional tips:

• If you have a pear-shaped body, opt for styles that accentuate your shoulders and waist, and elongate your legs. Avoid coats that end at the hips, as these can emphasise the hip area.
• For an inverted triangle body shape with broader shoulders, look for long, clean lines and avoid big lapels and collars. A-line coats can give the illusion of curvier hips.
• If you have a petite frame, shorter styles like peacoats or cropped jackets are a good choice. Well-tailored longer coats with slim cuts can also create the illusion of height.
• Hourglass figures should opt for structured coats that skim the curves. Belted coats can accentuate the waist, and styles that end below the hips are preferable.
• Apple-shaped bodies should choose coats that draw attention away from the waist and towards the legs. Cocoon coats and a-line styles can flatter the waist, with the hemline ideally hitting the top of the thighs.

In conclusion, finding the right sport coat for your body type involves considering measurements, fabric, colour, style, and fit. By taking the time to choose a sport coat that flatters your body, you can create a stylish and confident look.

Frequently asked questions