Astrakhan Coat: What's In A Name?

Astrakhan is a type of fur, usually black or grey, made from the tightly curled wool of newborn or fetal karakul lambs. The name comes from the city of Astrakhan in southern Russia, where the fur was first brought to the country by traders. Astrakhan is also used to refer to a fabric with a curled pile that resembles the distinctive texture of karakul lamb fur.

Astrakhan is a type of fur

The use of astrakhan dates back centuries in Central Asia and the Middle East, where it was used in traditional garments. In Western fashion, the earliest known use of the term 'astrakhan' is in the 19th century, though it may have made its way into Western fashion at various points in history. Astrakhan was extremely popular in the Victorian era, with its dark, heavy, glossy, ornate surface fitting perfectly with the aesthetic of the time. It remained popular in the Edwardian era and throughout the first half of the 20th century, experiencing resurgences in popularity in the second half of the century and beyond, despite the overall decline in popularity of fur and ethical arguments against it.

Astrakhan is also known by many other names, including broadtail, Persian lamb, karakulcha, krimmer, agnello di Persia, breitschwanz, garaköli bagana, slink or slinky, and swakara. The name used can differentiate between how the fur is sourced (newborn vs. fetal), but there is no international standard for most usages, so the name is usually not a guarantee of the type of fur.

Astrakhan is made from the fleece of fetal or newborn karakul lambs

Astrakhan is a type of fur made from the fleece of fetal or newborn karakul lambs. The karakul lamb is a breed of domestic fat-tailed sheep that originated in Central Asia. The fur is characterised by its distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops. True astrakhan comes in a range of colours from pale golden yellow to black, though black is the most desirable.

Karakul lambs are renowned for their ability to forage and thrive under extremely harsh living conditions. They can survive severe drought conditions because they store reserves for lean times as fat in their tails. The meat from the sheep, and especially the fat from the tail end, is an important ingredient in Uzbek cuisine.

The pelts of newborn karakul lambs are considered particularly desirable and are used to create clothing items such as hats and coats. The name "astrakhan" is derived from the city of Astrakhan in Southern Russia, where the fur was first brought to the region by traders.

The use of astrakhan fur has a long history, dating back centuries in Central Asia and the Middle East. It has been used in traditional garments and has experienced resurges in popularity in the Western fashion industry over the past two centuries. However, there are ethical concerns surrounding the sourcing of astrakhan, as the most desirable form of the fur comes from lambs that are 15-30 days away from being born, requiring the killing of both the ewe and the unborn lamb.

The name 'astrakhan' comes from the city of Astrakhan in Russia

The name astrakhan comes from the city of Astrakhan in Russia. The city is located in southern Russia, on the delta of the Volga River, 28 metres below sea level. It is the largest city and administrative centre of Astrakhan Oblast, with a population of over 500,000.

The city is named after the Astrakhan Tatars, who were a remnant of the Golden Horde. The name is a corruption of 'Hashtarkhan', itself a corruption of 'Haji Tarkhan', which means 'the king who has visited Mecca'. The city has given its name to the particular pelts of young karakul sheep and the hats traditionally made from them. Astrakhan is also known as broadtail, Persian lamb, karakulcha, krimmer, and several other names.

The use of astrakhan as a fabric dates back centuries in Central Asia and the Middle East, where it was used in traditional garments. Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops. True astrakhan comes in a range of colours from pale golden yellow to black, though black is the most desirable.

Astrakhan was universally popular in the early 20th century. It was used in full jackets and coats, as well as collars and trimming. It experienced resurgences in popularity throughout the second half of the 20th century and has appeared on catwalks in recent years, despite the overall decline in the popularity of fur.

Astrakhan is used to make coats and hats

Astrakhan is a luxurious fur, far pricier than most sheepskins. Its distinctive dark, heavy, glossy, ornate surface made it popular in the late 19th century, and it was used as trimming on collars and cuffs, as well as for full jackets and coats. Astrakhan was also popular in the early 20th century, with the Edwardians taking a particular liking to it. It has continued to experience resurgences in popularity throughout the second half of the 20th century, despite the overall decline in the popularity of fur.

In addition to being made from karakul lambs, astrakhan can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface.

Astrakhan is also known as Persian lamb, broadtail, and krimmer

Astrakhan, also known as Astrachan, is the tightly curled fleece of fetal or newborn karakul lambs. The name comes from the city of Astrakhan in Southern Russia. The fleece has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops.

The most desirable form of astrakhan is sourced from lambs 15-30 days away from being born, which involves killing both the ewe and the unborn lamb. This practice has understandably sparked ethical concerns. However, there are other ways to source astrakhan, such as waiting for the lamb to be born or using the pelts of lambs that are born dead or die shortly after birth.

The name "Astrakhan" is specifically the Russian name for the fabric. In other languages, it is known by different terms, including Persian lamb, broadtail, and krimmer (another Russian term). In Italian, it is called agnello di Persia, in German, it is breitschwanz, and in Central Asia, it is garaköli bagana. The variety of names and lack of standardization in the industry make it difficult to guarantee the type of fur one is purchasing. For example, in the US, broadtail is designated as fetal fur, while a New Zealand company uses the term to refer to fur sourced exclusively from natural lamb casualties.

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