Bagged A Coat: A Winter Style Guide

The phrase bagged a coat is used in a few different contexts. In sewing, bagging a coat refers to a technique for lining a coat or jacket, where the lining is sewn to the shell with the right sides together, leaving a small opening to turn the coat right-side out, hiding the seams and giving it a professional finish. In slang, the phrase bagged a coat can also be used to mean taking possession of something, as in claiming a coat from a wardrobe, or taking a romantic interest in someone.

Bagging out a lining

For a coat or jacket, the process of bagging out a lining usually includes the following steps:

• Assemble the coat shell and lining, including front facings and sleeves.
• Pin the coat lining to the coat body, with right sides together, around the perimeter of the coat.
• Sew the pieces together, leaving a small opening at the bottom of the lining/front facing seam and in the lining side seam for turning.
• Clip and trim the corners and seams as needed to reduce bulk and ensure a smooth finish.
• Attach the coat sleeve to the lining sleeve, matching the sleeve seams.
• Turn the coat right sides out through the openings in the lining.
• Secure the coat and lining underarms together with a thread chain to allow for movement.
• Close the openings in the lining by hand stitching or machine sewing.

For a sleeveless dress with a lining, the process is similar but involves additional steps to create a clean finish for the armholes:

• Sew the shoulder and side seams of the bodice and lining, clipping the seam allowance in the neckline to allow it to curve properly.
• Understitch the neckline and armholes to provide structure and an invisible finish.
• Reach between the layers of fabric and flip the seam allowances, bringing them together and securing them with pins.
• Sew the armhole seams in two operations, first from the bottom to the shoulder on one side, then repeating on the other side to create a continuous loop.
• Clip the seam allowance and press the armhole curve with a ham or sleeve roll to maintain the shape.
• Close the remaining seams, including the waist seam, by reaching through an opening in the lining and pulling the layers through to sew them together.

The bagging out technique can be adapted for different types of garments and fabrics, and it is a valuable skill for anyone interested in sewing their own clothing. It may seem complicated at first, but with practice and patience, it becomes a satisfying and rewarding process that elevates the final product.

Securing the lining and coat together

When sewing a coat or jacket, the lining and coat are secured together through a process called "bagging out a lining". This involves sewing the lining and coat together, right sides facing, leaving a small opening to turn the coat inside out. This process hides all seams and gives the coat a professional finish.

Step 1: Cut and Sew the Pieces

Follow the pattern instructions to cut out and sew the shell of the jacket together. Do the same for the lining, but leave about 2" unsewn at the bottom edge when attaching the front facing to the lining. Stitch along the sewn edge of the lining, securing it to the seam allowance of the facing.

Step 2: Attach the Collar

Attach the collar to the neck edge of the jacket, following the instructions in your pattern.

Step 3: Pin and Stitch the Shell and Lining

With right sides facing, pin and stitch the jacket shell and lining together around the sides and neck, leaving the hem loose.

Step 4: Grade the Seam Allowance

Grade the seam allowance, trim excess fabric from lapel points, and clip into the lapel corners.

Step 5: Understitch the Facing

Understitch the facing from the hem to the breakpoint of the jacket, which is the point at which the lapels turn outward.

Step 6: Align and Stitch the Hems

Align the hems of the shell and lining, and stitch them together from one edge to the other. This will create some gapping between the edges of the lining and facing, forming a pleat.

Step 7: Attach the Sleeve Linings

Lay the jacket out flat and insert the cuffed sleeve linings into the sleeves, matching the seams and ensuring neither the jacket nor lining is twisted. Stitch the two layers together and repeat for the other side.

Step 8: Create an Opening

Create an opening in one of the underarm seams by slitting the seam. This opening will be used to turn the jacket inside out.

Step 9: Turn the Jacket Inside Out

Reach through the opening in the sleeve and pull the jacket through until it is right side out.

Step 10: Secure the Underarm Seams (Optional)

Reach through the sleeve opening and grab the underarm seams of both the shell and lining. Bring them out through the hole and chain a length of about 1.5" between the two. Repeat on the other side.

Step 11: Close the Sleeve Opening

Pin the layers of the sleeve opening together and stitch as close to the edge as possible.

Step 12: Press the Hems

Press around the outside of the jacket and sleeve hems. When pressing the lapel, start from the hem and roll the seam towards the inside of the garment until you reach the breakpoint, then roll the hem towards the outside of the garment.

Your coat is now fully lined and secured together!

Sewing a thread chain

There are several types of thread that can be used to create a thread chain, including sewing machine thread, embroidery thread, wool or linen thread, or even thread with a metallic weave for a bit of sparkle. The thickness of the thread will depend on the desired thickness of the chain.

To create a thread chain, simply follow these steps:

• Choose your thread material and double or quadruple the thread to achieve the desired thickness.
• Determine how much thread you need on your needle, considering the thickness of the thread and the desired length of the thread chain.
• Sew the thread chain by hand or using a sewing machine. There are videos available online that demonstrate this process.
• Use the thread chain to connect the lining and outer layer of your garment, or as a belt loop.

Thread chains are a quick and easy way to add a professional finish to your sewing projects and are definitely worth the extra effort!

Finishing the hem

Now that you've successfully bagged out the lining, you'll need to secure the coat and lining underarms together with a thread chain. This will connect the lining to the outer layer while giving you room to move.

You might not have seen the thread chains in your coats or jackets as they are hidden, but if you've ever seen a skirt lining anchored to the main skirt with some thread to stop the lining from moving, that's a thread chain.

It might be tempting to skip sewing a thread chain after the effort of bagging out a lining, but it's worth it and really doesn't take long at all.

Sewing a thread chain

After you've bagged out a coat lining, you'll need to secure the coat and lining underarms together with a thread chain. This will connect the lining to the outer layer while giving you room to move.

You might not have seen thread chains in your coats or jackets as they are hidden, but if you've ever seen a skirt lining anchored to the main skirt with some thread to stop the lining from moving, that's a thread chain.

Finalising the hem

Once you've sewn the thread chain, you have three options to finalise the hem:

• Press the hem really well
• Topstitch the bottom edge of the coat with matching thread
• Finish the hem with hand stitching

Your choice may depend on the type of fabric you are using and how you like the way the hem looks.

And that's it! Now you can admire your bagged lining.

Bagged lining tutorial

Bagging a coat lining is a commercial technique that lets you machine stitch almost the entire thing. It's quicker than finishing an unlined jacket and lets the jacket slide easily over other clothes.

Preparation

Before you begin, the outer coat should be finished with the collar basted on. The lining should be assembled, including front facings and sleeves.

Your lining will have three openings: two at the bottom of the lining/front-facing seam, and one in the lining side seam. Leave about 3" open at the bottom of the seam. Leave 6" open in the side seam for turning later.

Sewing the Outer Coat to the Lining

Turn both the outer coat and the lining inside out and place them right sides together. Flip the collar down so it becomes encased in the seam. Now, pin the fronts and necklines together, matching the shoulder seams at the neckline. Pin well and stitch around these three edges.

Now, baste the hem of the outer coat. Fold up 1" and pin. Beginning 3" from the front, stitch the hem in place at 1/4" from the fold with a baste stitch.

Sewing the Sleeves

With the jacket and lining right side out, push the sleeve lining down the jacket sleeve. Secure the jacket sleeve seam to the corresponding lining seam with a pin. Turn the sleeves inside out through the side seam opening. Pull the sleeves apart so they're facing each other, joined by the pin. Remove the pin, roll the lining so the wrong side is out and repin. Line up the raw edges of the jacket and lining sleeve hems, then stitch close to the serged edges. Turn back through the opening right side out, and press.

Sewing the Lining to the Jacket

Sew the lining and jacket shells together, leaving an opening in one side seam. Machine-baste the opening closed. On the jacket, turn up the hem and baste 1/4" from the fold. Lightly steam-press.

Starting at the crease formed by the hem fold, with the jacket on top, pin, then sew the jacket to the lining along the front and neck edges to the opposite hem crease. To sew the hem, align the serged edges and stitch.

Turning the Jacket Right Side Out

Remove the basting stitches in the lining's side seam. Reach through the opening, grab the back neck area of the jacket, and pull the jacket right side out through the opening.

Final Steps

Push up the lining at the hemline and stitch the hem with a running stitch, using a thread that exactly matches the jacket's colour. Slip-stitch the unsewn bottom of the facing. Make invisible stitches by starting a stitch directly across from the previous stitch, pushing the needle along the inside of the crease, emerging on the same side, and stitching across.

Now, fold under the facing, catching the little bit of lining underneath. Slip-stitch this section closed.

Finally, press the hem well, topstitch the bottom edge of the coat with matching thread, or finish the hem with hand stitching.

Frequently asked questions