Loden Coat: Traditional Garment, Modern Style

A loden coat is a thick, water-resistant overcoat made from wool. The term 'loden' refers to both the style of the coat and the type of fabric used. The fabric is derived from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and is typically dyed a bluish-green colour. Loden coats originated in the Austrian state of Tyrol and were originally worn by peasants as workwear.

Loden coat origins

The loden coat is a style of long overcoat originating in the Austrian Alpine region of Tirol. Colloquially, the term "loden" refers to the coat itself, but technically, it refers to the fabric the coat is made from. Loden cloth was first produced by peasants in Loderers, Austria, in the 16th century. The Archduke of Further Austria, Ferdinand II of Tyrol, decreed in 1573 that peasants were only permitted to wear wool, linen, and loden.

Loden cloth is made from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep. The wool is woven loosely and treated through wet finishing or milling; it shrinks, becomes dense, and is given a felt-like finish with teasels. It is then brushed and sheared repeatedly until the desired fuzzy surface is achieved. The process of brushing the wool aligns the fibres, giving the fabric its famous water-repelling ability. Loden coats are typically dyed a rich, dark green, echoing the natural colour of the wool fibres.

Loden coats were originally worn as workwear by farmers, shepherds, and huntsmen, designed to protect against the harsh winters of the Alps. In the early 19th century, Archduke Johann, brother of Emperor Franz II, developed a deep appreciation of Alpine culture and began wearing loden garments. This sparked a growing interest in folk culture among the nobility, and loden became a signature fabric for aristocrats' garments, diminishing its association with the working class.

Today, loden coats are considered a timeless and versatile piece of clothing, suitable for both formal and casual occasions. The fabric's unique characteristics, including its weather resistance, breathability, and durability, have made it a staple material for classic European clothing.

Loden fabric

To produce loden fabric, strong yarns are woven loosely into cloth which then undergoes a lengthy process of shrinking, eventually acquiring the texture of felt and becoming quite dense. It is then brushed with a fuller's teasel and the nap is clipped, a process which is repeated a number of times until the resulting fabric provides good warmth for its weight and is relatively supple, windproof and extremely durable.

Loden colour

Loden is a colour that is earthy, and can be described as a bluish or dark grey-green. It is a warm colour, a mixture of yellow and green.

Loden is also the name given to a type of thick, water-resistant woollen material with a short pile, known as loden cloth. The cloth is made from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and is soft, dense, and waterproof. The name comes from the Middle High German "lode" or Old High German "lodo", meaning "coarse cloth".

Loden cloth is dyed in several colours, but the earthy green is the most common. The classic loden jacket is a traditional Bavarian coat, often worn with lederhosen. The jacket is defined by its sharp, flattering blazer cut and its hard-wearing, comfortable natural wool material. The colour of the jacket is typically dark grey or brown, with grey tones complementing darker leather breeches, and brown shades suiting camel-coloured lederhosen.

Loden coat features

Loden coats are made from a thick, water-resistant woollen material known as loden cloth. The fabric is derived from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and is typically dyed a traditional earthy shade of green, though it can be dyed any number of colours. The fabric is produced by loosely weaving strong yarns into cloth, which then undergoes a lengthy process of shrinking to acquire the texture and density of felt. It is then brushed with a fuller's teasel and the nap is clipped, a process that is repeated until the fabric is supple, windproof, and extremely durable.

Loden coats are long and sturdy, designed to protect against the harsh winters of the Alps. They are weather-resistant, oil-resistant, and fire-resistant, with a breathable fabric that regulates body temperature in extreme cold. The coats are also durable, with a timeless style that can be maintained for decades.

The two defining characteristics of the traditional Bavarian loden jacket are its sharp, flattering blazer cut and its hard-wearing, comfortable natural wool material. The jackets often feature classy details such as dark green borders on pockets and a short, open collar. The buttons can be made of metal, such as brass, or from buckhorn.

Loden coats are versatile and can be worn over suits for more formal business attire. They can be combined with staple suiting shades like navy, charcoal, and brown, as well as pinstripe or chalk-stripe patterns in muted or minimally contrasting colours. For a more casual look, they can also be paired with corduroy trousers, chinos, or jeans, though it is important to maintain a good balance in the level of formality.

Loden coat popularity

The loden coat is a timeless piece of clothing that has evolved from its rustic, Alpine origins to become a versatile, elegant option for fall and winter wardrobes around the world. While it remains a pillar of classic European dress, its popularity has spread beyond the Alps and Europe, with a presence in the United States and other parts of the world.

The loden coat's journey began in the Austrian Alps, where it was first handwoven by peasants in the 16th century. The coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep was crafted into a thick, water-resistant fabric known as loden cloth. This fabric was dyed in various colours, with bluish-green being the most common. The resulting coat often featured a stiff, stand-up collar and was trimmed with braid or silver buttons.

Originally, the loden coat served as protective workwear for farmers, shepherds, and huntsmen, providing much-needed warmth and defence against the harsh Alpine winters. Over time, it became a symbol of Alpine culture and functionality, with its unique blend of heritage and contemporary style.

In the early 19th century, the loden coat caught the attention of Archduke Johann, who embraced the Alpine lifestyle during his time in the Tyrolean Alps. He and his brother, Emperor Franz II, set a trend among the nobility, incorporating the loden style into their wardrobes. This shift diminished the notion of loden being exclusively for the working class.

The loden coat's popularity continued to grow during the reign of Emperor Franz Joseph I, a hunter himself, who commissioned the Tyrolean people to produce loden wool exclusively for him. The age of Romanticism further fuelled the nobility's interest in folk culture, leading to the widespread adoption of loden fabric among aristocrats.

The modern style of men's loden overcoats evolved when these coats were adopted by the Habsburg Court in Vienna. To accommodate the tastes of the aristocracy, finer fibres like alpaca were incorporated to create a new variety known as 'Himalaya Loden'. This evolution made the loden coat more accessible to those who valued sophistication and prestige.

Today, the loden coat is prized for its durability, natural water resistance, and insulating properties. Its production remains true to its traditional roots, with a focus on sustainability and natural materials. The intricate process of crafting loden fabric results in a dense, breathable fabric that is ideal for a range of weather conditions.

The resurgence of loden coats in modern times can be attributed to their timeless appeal, blending heritage with contemporary fashion sensibilities. Whether in its classic green shade or other hues, the loden coat is a versatile and stylish option for those seeking a combination of warmth and elegance.

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