
When it comes to choosing the right fabric for a sports coat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, the weight of the fabric is important – a lightweight fabric is ideal for warmer weather, with weights between 8 to 9 oz (240-270 grams) being suitable, although anything lighter may compromise the look and drape of the coat. The weave of the fabric is also key – an open weave fabric, such as fresco, allows for better airflow and is more suitable for warm weather, while a tightly woven fabric restricts airflow. Linen or cotton are often used for sports coat fabrics as they add texture and are usually woven with yarns of irregular thickness, resulting in a casual look.
For summer, tropical wool is a good choice as it is an airy, open-weave fabric made from high-twist yarns that provide natural wrinkle resistance. Wool-silk-linen blends are also ideal for summer as they are airy, breathable, and straddle the line between formal and casual. Cotton and linen are popular choices for warmer months due to their breathability, but they can wrinkle easily and may not be as comfortable as other fabrics. Hopsack, a method of weaving that creates a subtle square pattern, is another good option for breathability and natural wrinkle resistance.
For colder weather, thicker and textured fabrics such as tweed or corduroy are suitable choices. These fabrics provide warmth and have a sharp yet casual vibe that pairs well with jeans or trousers. When it comes to colour, it is generally recommended to avoid shades of grey, navy blue, and black solids, as these are typically associated with suit jackets. Instead, opt for colours like brown, green, or blue, which offer versatility and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Weight | 8-9 oz for lightweight, 12-14 oz for midweight |
Weave | Open weave for summer, broad weave for breathability |
Texture | Knobs and irregularities, semi-open weave |
Material | Linen, cotton, wool, silk, fresco, tropical wool, hopsack, serge, doeskin, seersucker, madras, raw silk, mohair, poly blends |
Lining | Half-lined, unlined |
Interlining | Sewn/unfused, fused |
Colour | Beige, cream, brown, grey, blue, white, ivory, orange, yellow, red, green, vermillion, sage, navy |
What You'll Learn
- Wool is a classic choice, being breathable and resilient
- Poly blends combine polyester and wool for crease-resistance and shape retention
- Hopsack is a weaving method that makes the fabric more breathable
- Linen is a summer option, often blended with silk or wool
- Corduroy is a sturdy, thick fabric used for sports coats
Wool is a classic choice, being breathable and resilient
Wool is a classic choice for sports coats, being breathable and resilient. When tightly packed, the crimped wool fibres create tiny pockets of air that allow the fabric to absorb and release moisture. This makes wool a great insulator that is not stifling.
The hopsack weave is another good option for a sports coat. It is a method of weaving that makes the fabric more breathable. The broad weave also creates a subtle square pattern that adds a woven texture to the fabric. The weave itself gives the fabric a natural wrinkle resistance and a very relaxed, forgiving drape.
A hopsack sport coat is usually made of wool, which makes it light, breathable, and naturally wrinkle-resistant. It has a coarser texture and a sporty feel that makes it great to pair with jeans. At the same time, the weave is substantial and drapes nicely, so you can dress the jacket up with trousers or khakis.
A hopsack sport coat is a great choice for a foundational piece in your wardrobe. It is a 3-season piece that can be worn all year in many places. It is fine for the summer, most at home in the fall and spring, and passable in the winter if the climate is not too cold.
You can also opt for a blend of wool and other fibres for your sports coat. For example, a wool-silk-linen blend combines the drape of wool, the lustre of silk, and the crisp, dry handle of linen. These blends tend to be airy and breathable, making them ideal for the summer. They also straddle the line between formal and casual, so you can wear them to work and on weekends.
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Poly blends combine polyester and wool for crease-resistance and shape retention
Poly blends are a combination of polyester and wool, which offers several benefits for sports coats. One of the key advantages is their crease resistance and shape retention properties. Poly blends provide crease resistance by minimising wrinkles and creases in the fabric. This is achieved through the inherent properties of the synthetic fibres used, such as polyester, which do not absorb water as efficiently as natural fibres. As a result, poly blends are dimensionally stable and less prone to wrinkling.
Additionally, poly blends offer shape retention, ensuring that the sports coat maintains its original shape over time. This is accomplished through the crosslinking of cellulose chains, which prevents the molecules from moving and causing wrinkles. The crosslinking agents used in poly blends, such as dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU), bond the fabric molecules together, enhancing the fabric's shape retention.
The combination of polyester and wool in poly blends provides a balance between crease resistance and shape retention. The polyester component contributes to crease resistance due to its synthetic nature, while the wool adds structure and helps maintain the shape of the sports coat.
The benefits of poly blends for sports coats extend beyond crease resistance and shape retention. Poly blends are known for their durability, as the blend of synthetic and natural fibres creates a strong and long-lasting fabric. Additionally, poly blends offer breathability, making them suitable for sports coats as they allow air to flow through the fabric, providing comfort and preventing overheating.
When considering the fabric for a sports coat, it is essential to strike a balance between style, comfort, and functionality. Poly blends offer a versatile option that can provide a polished look while also being practical and low-maintenance. The crease resistance and shape retention properties of poly blends make them an attractive choice for those seeking a sports coat that retains its appearance and structure over time.
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Hopsack is a weaving method that makes the fabric more breathable
Hopsack is a weaving method that creates a basket-like texture, and is a variation of the plain weave. This open and loose weave results in a lightweight and breathable fabric, ideal for warmer weather. The hopsack weave is constructed by modifying mat or basket weaves, using one series of warp and one series of weft, resulting in fewer interlacing points. This type of weave is also moisture-absorbent and has a softer feel.
The hopsack weave is commonly used for spring and summer clothing, particularly men's jackets and blazers. It is a versatile fabric that can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion. Due to its breathability, hopsack is recommended for unlined garments such as blazers, to highlight its lightweight and wrinkle-resistant properties. The weave's rough texture also makes it a good choice for casual and crease-resistant outerwear.
The hopsack weave is characterised by its open structure, which allows air to flow through the fabric, making it ideal for warmer temperatures. However, this open structure also means that hopsack is not suitable for colder weather, as it does not provide insulation.
The hopsack weave's unique texture and casual appearance make it a popular choice for those seeking a lightweight and breathable fabric for their wardrobe. Its versatility allows it to be dressed up or down, making it a practical option for various occasions.
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Linen is a summer option, often blended with silk or wool
Linen is a great option for a summer sports coat. It is lightweight, breathable, and durable, making it one of the most comfortable materials to wear in hot weather. Linen is a strong yet lightweight fabric that can withstand wear and tear. Its fibres are hollow, allowing more airflow over the body. It is also highly absorbent without feeling damp to the touch, making it perfect for sunny days and outdoor events.
Linen is often blended with silk or wool, creating a unique fabric with desirable qualities from both materials. The addition of wool to linen provides more structure and drape, while silk adds a luxurious lustre and improves the overall feel of the fabric.
A linen sports coat is ideal for achieving a fashion-forward formal look in the summer. It can be dressed up or down, making it versatile for various occasions, from casual lunches to summer weddings. Linen jackets are suitable for almost every season and can be worn during spring or autumn when the temperature is not too cold.
When investing in a linen sports coat, it is important to ensure a proper fit. The collar should rest smoothly against the back of the neck, and the lapels should fall flat against the chest. The shoulder padding should complement the wearer's frame, and the sleeves should be the right length, allowing for a watch or shirt sleeves to be visible. Lastly, the jacket should fit comfortably around the chest and waist, both when buttoned and unbuttoned.
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Corduroy is a sturdy, thick fabric used for sports coats
Corduroy is a durable fabric, and its thick nature means it is naturally wrinkle-resistant. It is a good option for a winter sports coat as it will complement the other thicker, chunkier items in your wardrobe, such as sweaters, scarves, and wool trousers. The fabric is usually made from cotton, which is a comfortable and breathable material, but it can also be blended with other fibres such as elastane, which gives the fabric stretch.
The weave of the fabric is important when choosing a sports coat, as a tightly woven fabric will restrict airflow. Corduroy is a good option as it is a thicker fabric with an open weave, which will allow a breeze to pass through and keep you cool. The fabric is also usually woven with yarns of irregular thickness, which results in a textured finish. This adds to the casual nature of the sports coat and makes it a good option for a relaxed, semi-casual look.
Corduroy sports coats are available in a range of colours, including brown, grey, and green. These neutral colours will go with most items in your wardrobe and are a good option if you want a versatile jacket. You can also find corduroy sports coats in brighter, bolder colours if you want to make more of a statement with your outfit.
Corduroy is a classic fabric that has been used for sports coats for many years, and it is a good option if you are looking for a sturdy, thick fabric that will keep you warm in the winter.
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Frequently asked questions
Linen or cotton are often used for sports coat fabrics because they are lightweight and add texture, making the coat more casual.
Ideally, a lightweight fabric for a summer sports coat would be around 8 to 9 oz (240-270 grams).
Worsted fabric has been combed to set the hairs parallel and remove shorter fibres, resulting in a smoother and crisper feel. Woollen fabric, on the other hand, is not put through this process, resulting in a spongier and loftier texture.
Cotton and linen are recommended for a more casual sports coat as they are comfortable and breathable.
For a more formal sports coat, consider wool, poly blends, or flannel (brushed wool). These fabrics are known for their breathability, durability, and ability to drape well.