Trench Coats: A History Of Women's Wardrobe Essential

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The women's trench coat has transcended its military origins to become a symbol of sophistication and style. The trench coat's military origins date back to the 1820s when Scottish chemist and inventor Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock (founder of the British rubber industry) created waterproof coats made from rubberised cotton for the British military. These coats, known as macks, were revolutionary for being waterproof, but they lacked breathability and had a distinctive sweaty odour.

In the late 1800s, military wardrobes inspired civilian fashion, and the market for more breathable waterproof textiles grew. In 1853, Mayfair gentlemen’s clothier John Emary developed and patented a more appealing water-repellent fabric, later renaming his company Aquascutum (from the Latin aqua, meaning water, and scutum, meaning shield). In 1879, Thomas Burberry invented gabardine, a breathable yet weatherproof twill made by coating individual strands of cotton or wool fibre.

The trench coat as we know it today took shape during World War I, when it was worn by officers in the trenches. The coat was designed to be shorter, lighter, and more flexible than the traditional long wool overcoats, while still being warm and weatherproof. The coat's features, such as D-rings, shoulder straps, belts, oversized pockets, and strategically placed flaps and vents, made it functional and practical for military use.

After World War I, the trench coat transitioned from the battlefield to the silver screen, thanks to Hollywood's influence. Film icons such as Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn popularised the trench coat as a symbol of elegance and mystery. The trench coat has since become a fashion staple, with designers incorporating sustainable materials, updated cuts, and innovative features to adapt to changing tastes and lifestyles.

Characteristics Values
Inventors Charles Macintosh, Thomas Hancock, John Emary, Thomas Burberry
Invention date Early 1820s
Fabric Waterproof, heavy-duty cotton, gabardine
Colour Khaki
Length Knee-length or full-length
Number of buttons 6-10
Collar Can be buttoned at the neck for protection from bad weather and poison gas
Cape Small cape at the back to allow water to roll off
Pockets Large and deep
Cuffs Adjustable buckle cuffs
Belt D-ring or tie at the waist

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The trench coat's military origins

The trench coat was originally developed for British Army officers before World War I, becoming popular while used in the trenches, hence the name. The coat was designed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers.

The invention of the trench coat is claimed by two British luxury clothing manufacturers, Burberry and Aquascutum. Aquascutum's claim dates back to the 1850s, while Thomas Burberry invented the fabric gabardine in 1879 and submitted a design for a British Army officer's raincoat to the War Office in 1901.

The trench coat was designed to improve soldiers' fortunes. It kept out water and warmed the wearer while being comfier, lighter, better camouflaged, and better ventilated than its predecessors. The coats' belts had rings to hook on accessories, their back capes drained water, and their removable inner linings doubled as bedding or pillows if necessary.

During World War I, the design of the trench coat was modified to include epaulettes and D-rings. The shoulder straps were for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia, while the D-ring was used for attaching map cases, swords, or other equipment to the belt. The coat was also designed with large pockets for maps and cleverly placed flaps and vents to deal with the odour associated with earlier rubber coats.

The trench coat was typically worn as a windbreaker or rain jacket and not solely for protection from the cold in winter. It was sized to wear over a heavier coat, which explains the traditionally generous sizing of trench coats.

The trench coat was first worn by officers, distinguishing them from the rank and file and denoting class differences, as military officers at the time came from the aristocracy. However, as the war progressed and more working-class infantrymen were promoted to officers, the trench coat became a symbol of status and class for these "temporary gentlemen".

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The evolution of the trench coat

The Early Years

The trench coat's story begins in the early 1800s, almost 100 years before World War I. Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock, the founder of the British rubber industry, crafted coats from rubberised cotton for the British military. These coats, named "macs" after their inventor, were waterproof but lacked breathability, often trapping sweat and taking on a distinctive odour.

The Military Years

The trench coat as we know it today was shaped by the First World War. The previous military dress of thick, heavy greatcoats was impractical for the new style of warfare, so a new garment was designed to improve soldiers' fortunes. The trench coat kept out water, was more comfortable, provided better ventilation, and was lighter and better camouflaged. It featured a belt with rings for attaching accessories, a back cape for draining water, and a removable inner lining that doubled as bedding.

The Post-War Years

After World War I, the trench coat transitioned from the battlefield to civilian life, aided by Hollywood's influence. It became a symbol of elegance and mystery, popularised by film icons such as Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn. The trench coat shed its military associations and became a fashionable choice for men and women, often associated with seductive roles like detectives, spies, and femme fatales.

The Fashion Icon

Throughout the 20th century, the trench coat became a must-have item in women's fashion. Its androgynous appeal allowed women to adopt a stylish and practical look. Designers experimented with various lengths, fabrics, and colours, and it became a uniform for mods and radical intellectuals. Today, the trench coat continues to be a fashion staple, with designers incorporating sustainable materials, updated cuts, and innovative features.

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The trench coat's transition to Hollywood

After the war, Hollywood boosted the garment's popularity even further. The trench coat became a staple in both men's and women's wardrobes, thanks to its appearances in films. Hollywood dusted off its officer image and replaced it with that of the intrepid detective, the cunning gangster, or the femme fatale.

The trench coat has been featured in many Hollywood films, such as "Breakfast at Tiffany's" with Audrey Hepburn and Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart. Bogart's character, Rick Blaine, immortalized the look of the trench coat, as did leading ladies like Marlene Dietrich. The trench coat has also been worn by other Hollywood icons, including Marilyn Monroe in "Let's Make Love" and Brigitte Bardot in "Babette Goes to War."

In addition to its practical functionality, the trench coat's flattering cut and ability to pair well with nearly any situation, period, or genre have made it a favourite among filmmakers and a staple in the fashion world.

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The trench coat as a fashion staple

The trench coat has been a staple of men's and women's outerwear for over a hundred years. Its popularity is due to its style and functionality, with its iconic design remaining largely unchanged since the First World War.

The trench coat's journey to becoming a fashion staple began with its military origins. The coat was designed to be practical for soldiers in the trenches, with features such as a belt with D-rings for attaching accessories, a small cape at the back to drain water, and large pockets for maps and other necessities. It was also designed to be shorter, lighter, and more flexible than the traditional long wool overcoats previously worn by soldiers.

During the First World War, the trench coat became a status symbol, as only officers were permitted to wear them. The coat distinguished the upper-class officers from the rank-and-file soldiers and was a marker of social distinction and class. The glamour and panache of the trench coat-clad officer were further reinforced by advertisements and popular culture during the war.

After the war, the trench coat made the transition to civilian culture and became a symbol of sophistication and style. Hollywood played a significant role in popularising the trench coat, with film icons such as Humphrey Bogart, Audrey Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich sporting the coat on the silver screen. The trench coat became associated with elegance, mystery, and world-weariness, often worn by detectives, spies, and femme fatales.

In the 20th century, the trench coat became a must-have item in women's fashion. Its androgynous appeal allowed women to adopt a look that was both stylish and practical. Designers experimented with various lengths, fabrics, and colours, and the trench coat became synonymous with edgy, nonchalant sophistication.

Today, the trench coat continues to be a fashion staple, with designers incorporating sustainable materials, updated cuts, and innovative features while retaining its classic charm. It has become a symbol of timeless elegance, empowerment, strength, and independence, beloved by both men and women.

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The trench coat's modern-day adaptations

The trench coat has come a long way from its utilitarian origins, evolving into a versatile fashion staple for women. While it retains its classic charm, designers have updated it to suit contemporary tastes and lifestyles. Here are some ways in which the trench coat has been adapted for modern-day wear:

  • Sustainable Materials: With growing concerns about environmental sustainability, designers are increasingly incorporating eco-friendly and sustainable materials into their trench coat designs. This not only reduces the environmental impact of the fashion industry but also ensures that the trench coat remains a responsible and ethical choice for consumers.
  • Updated Cuts: While the traditional trench coat is double-breasted with a belted waist, designers have experimented with updated cuts and silhouettes. These may include variations in lapel width, sleeve length, and overall coat length, creating a more modern and streamlined look.
  • Innovative Features: To enhance functionality and adaptability, modern trench coats often feature innovative details such as detachable hoods, removable linings, and convertible elements. These features allow the wearer to adjust the coat to changing weather conditions, making it a versatile piece for unpredictable climates.
  • Colour and Pattern Variations: While the classic trench coat colour is khaki, modern adaptations have introduced a wide range of colours and patterns. From bold hues to subtle pastels and from floral prints to geometric designs, the trench coat has been reimagined to suit a variety of personal styles and tastes.
  • Androgynous Appeal: The trench coat's androgynous appeal has been embraced by designers, who have created styles that blur the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine silhouettes. This versatility allows individuals to express their unique sense of style and make a statement that transcends gender norms.
  • Collaboration and Limited Editions: Collaborations between established trench coat brands and contemporary designers have resulted in limited-edition collections that blend classic elements with modern twists. These collaborations bring fresh perspectives to the traditional trench coat, attracting new audiences and ensuring its continued relevance in the fashion industry.

The trench coat has proven its adaptability by seamlessly transitioning from military uniform to Hollywood glamour, and now to the diverse world of contemporary fashion. Its ability to retain its timeless elegance while embracing modern innovations cements its status as a fashion icon.

Frequently asked questions

The trench coat originated in the early 1820s, when Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock created waterproof coats made from rubberised cotton.

The trench coat got its name from the trenches of World War I, where they were worn by officers and became popular due to their functionality and protection from the elements.

The title of "inventor of the trench coat" is debated, with British luxury clothing manufacturers Burberry and Aquascutum both claiming its invention. However, it was Charles Macintosh who invented the first waterproof coat, the "mack".

After World War I, the trench coat transitioned to the silver screen, popularised by film icons such as Humphrey Bogart, Audrey Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich. It became a symbol of elegance, mystery, and sophistication for both men and women.

The women's trench coat has evolved over time, transcending its military origins to become a symbol of style and empowerment. Designers have experimented with various lengths, fabrics, and colours, and it remains a versatile fashion staple that adapts to contemporary tastes while retaining its classic charm.

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