The Timeless Wool Broadcloth Frock Coat: A Gentleman's Wardrobe Essential

A wool broadcloth frock coat is a formal men's coat, typically knee-length, with a skirt cut all around the base just above the knee. The coat is fitted with long sleeves and features a centre vent at the back, as well as unusual elements such as a reverse collar and lapels. The broadcloth fabric is a dense, plain-woven cloth, historically made of wool and characterised by its smooth finish. The term broadcloth originally referred to the fact that the fabric was woven much wider than its finished width and then heavily milled to shrink it to the desired size. Wool broadcloth frock coats were particularly popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s-1910s).

History of the wool broadcloth frock coat

The wool broadcloth frock coat has a long history, dating back to the 18th century and evolving over the years until it was largely replaced by the morning coat in the early 20th century.

Origins

The frock coat emerged during the Napoleonic Wars, when it was worn by officers in the Austrian and various German armies. The coat was practical, keeping the wearer warm and protecting their uniform. The first military frock coats were issued to French line infantry and Prussian Landwehr troops. The style was then adopted by the British Army in the early 19th century, with officers wearing a dark blue or black frock coat for ordinary duties.

18th Century

The frock coat's predecessor, known simply as the 'frock', emerged in the 1720s as a sporting and informal coat. It was a single-breasted coat, adapted from the working man's garment, made of woollen cloth with a small turned-down collar and small cuffs or slit sleeve ends. By the 1750s, the frock was widely accepted for everyday dress, and by the 1770s, there was a smarter French version that was suitable for most formal occasions. In the 1780s, large buttons and tight sleeves with round cuffs featured on plain-coloured frocks, which were usually worn with a contrasting waistcoat and breeches.

19th Century

The frock coat, as distinct from the frock, emerged between 1815 and 1820. It was influenced by the style of the greatcoat but was more fitted in shape. It was first worn as informal daywear but soon became the formal day-coat of the 19th century. The frock coat was characterised by full skirts overlapping at the centre front, with a turned-down collar and either a single or double-breasted cut. The coat was popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s-1910s). It was typically knee-length, buttoned down to the waist, and draped over the lower half of the body like a skirt. The frock coat was usually made of wool, but also came in other materials such as linen and cotton for summer use.

Decline

By the 1880s, and increasingly into the Edwardian era, the morning coat began to replace the frock coat as daytime full dress. The frock coat came to be seen as more conservative and old-fashioned, and by the early 20th century, it was largely relegated to ultra-formal occasions and court dress. In 1936, it was officially abolished as court dress in Britain, though it has continued to appear sparingly in modern times, particularly in traditional processions and weddings.

Characteristics of the wool broadcloth frock coat

A wool broadcloth frock coat is a formal men's coat that was popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee. The coat is fitted and long-sleeved, with a centre vent at the back. It also features a reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is often cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body.

Frock coats emerged during the Napoleonic Wars, worn by officers in the Austrian and various German armies. By the 1820s, the frock coat was introduced along with full-length trousers, perhaps inspired by country leisure wear. Early frock coats featured higher collars and voluminous lapels, with a variety of dark colours. However, within a few years, plain black became the standard, along with a moderate collar.

The wool broadcloth frock coat is typically double-breasted with peaked lapels, a style sometimes called a Prince Albert after Queen Victoria's consort. The coat only buttoned down to the waist seam, which was decorated with a pair of buttons at the back. The length of the skirt varied during the Victorian and Edwardian eras according to fashion, with the most conservative length being at the knees.

The manufacturing process of broadcloth involves weaving the fabric much wider than its finished width and then heavily milling it to shrink it to the required size. This results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape that is highly weather-resistant and durable. The fabric has a smooth finish and is perfect for tailoring.

How to style the wool broadcloth frock coat

A wool broadcloth frock coat is a formal men's coat, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back, cut just above the knee.

• Keep the rest of the outfit formal: As the frock coat is a formal garment, it is best paired with other formal pieces. This can include a waistcoat, trousers, a dress shirt, and a tie.
• Consider the colour: Frock coats traditionally come in dark, muted colours such as black, charcoal grey, or navy blue. When choosing trousers to pair with your frock coat, consider sticking to these darker colours to maintain a formal look.
• Focus on fit: Frock coats are meant to be fitted and tailored, so ensure that your coat is the correct size and fits well. The waist seam of the frock coat is meant to flatter the wearer's figure, so make sure this is taken into account when choosing your size.
• Accessories: When accessorising a wool broadcloth frock coat, consider adding a non-collapsible top hat, a boutonnière, and a cane. For footwear, button boots or dress boots are a good choice.
• Layering: In colder weather, a frock overcoat can be worn over the frock coat. This is a type of overcoat cut in the same style as the frock coat, but slightly longer and fuller to accommodate the extra layer.
• Trousers: When choosing trousers to pair with your frock coat, consider the formality of the occasion. For more formal events, striped or checked trousers in muted colours can be a good choice. For slightly less formal situations, trousers in a muted solid colour can also work.
• Waistcoats: A waistcoat can be a great addition to a frock coat outfit. For more formal occasions, a black waistcoat is a good choice. In warmer months, a white or buff-coloured linen waistcoat can be a stylish alternative.

How to care for the wool broadcloth frock coat

A wool broadcloth frock coat is a formal men's coat that was popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back and a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee. The coat also features a reverse collar, lapels, and a high degree of waist suppression.

To care for your wool broadcloth frock coat, follow these instructions:

• Wool broadcloth is a delicate fabric, so it is important to handle it with care. When storing your coat, avoid hanging it on a wooden hanger as the wood can stain the fabric. Instead, use a padded hanger to help maintain the shape of the coat.
• Wool is a natural fibre that can shrink when exposed to heat. When washing your wool broadcloth frock coat, always refer to the laundry symbols on the garment and use cold or lukewarm water. Hand washing is recommended for wool broadcloth to avoid shrinkage.
• Use a mild detergent or soap designed for wool when washing your coat. Avoid using fabric softener as it can affect the breathability of the fabric.
• Do not wring or twist the fabric when washing, as this can damage the fibres. Gently squeeze out any excess water after washing.
• To dry your wool broadcloth frock coat, lay it flat on a towel and reshape it gently. Avoid hanging the coat to dry as it may stretch and lose its shape.
• If needed, iron your coat on a low heat setting, always placing a cloth between the iron and the fabric to protect it from direct heat.
• To remove stains, spot treat them with a gentle stain remover or a mixture of mild detergent and water. Blot the stain gently, working from the outside towards the centre, and avoid rubbing to prevent spreading the stain.
• To freshen up your coat between washes, use a fabric steamer or hang it in a steamy bathroom. This will help remove any odours and wrinkles.
• Store your wool broadcloth frock coat in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture. Wool is a natural repellent to dirt and odours, so it does not require frequent washing.
• When travelling, use a garment bag to protect your coat from dirt and wrinkles.
• For any tough stains or if you are unsure about the washing instructions, it is best to consult a professional cleaner.

Where to buy a wool broadcloth frock coat

A wool broadcloth frock coat is a formal men's coat that was popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is typically knee-length, fitted, and long-sleeved, with a centre vent at the back. The standard colour of a civilian frock coat is solid black, although charcoal grey and midnight blue were also worn.

If you are interested in purchasing a wool broadcloth frock coat, there are several options available. Historical Emporium offers a selection of vintage frock coats, including some made from 100% wool in black and grey. They carry a range of styles, such as the Callahan Frock Coat, the Emerson Frock Coat, and the Double-Breasted Frock Coat, which can be purchased online or by calling their customer service line. Townsends is another option, offering a range of historical coats, including 18th-century wool civilian coats, although their selection of frock coats is less clear. For those interested in a more modern take on the style, designer brands such as Alexander McQueen, Prada, and Paul Smith have featured frock coats in their recent fashion lines.

Frequently asked questions