Brown Sports Coat, Navy Shirt: Pocket Square Style

Pocket squares are a great way to add a stylish touch to any outfit. When it comes to what pocket square to wear with a brown sports coat and a navy shirt, there are a few options to consider. Firstly, it is important to choose a pocket square that complements the colours of the outfit without being too matchy-matchy. A pocket square with a hint of navy or brown could be a good option, or a pocket square with a contrasting colour such as yellow or orange could also work well. In terms of fabric, silk, cotton, linen, or wool pocket squares are all popular options, with silk being the most elegant and year-round choice. When it comes to folding the pocket square, a simple flat or presidential fold is always a safe choice, but more creative folds like the puff fold or the bird of paradise can add a bit of flair to the outfit. Ultimately, the choice of pocket square depends on personal preference and the desired level of formality.

Pocket square colours and patterns

Pocket squares are an easy and beautiful way to upgrade your formal or casual looks. They come in a variety of fabrics, patterns, and colours, and can be worn with bow ties, neckties, or alone.

Pocket Square Colours

When choosing a pocket square colour, it is important to remember that the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look, either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. A white pocket square is the most classic option and will work with every jacket and tie combination. For formal and business occasions, a white pocket square is always a good choice.

If you want to go for a very conservative look, choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket. Tonal monochrome shades work well with black or grey suits, while a vibrant pop of red adds interest to a crisp blue suit. For a business casual look, a white pocket square with navy blue will match a navy jacket.

For complementary colours, which create a bright and bold effect, pair a navy jacket with any pocket square with a shade of yellow. A navy pocket square will work with any golden-toned jacket. A monochromatic look, which is more muted, can be achieved by using different shades of the same colour.

If you are wearing a patterned pocket square, pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together and match it to a primary colour in your tie. You could also choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your outfit.

Pocket Square Patterns

Pocket squares come in a variety of patterns including striped, polka dots, gingham (checked), and more flamboyant decorations. If you are unsure, it is advisable to start with solid colours or subtle patterns.

When mixing patterns, make sure to add different scales to create a contrast. For example, if your tie has thin stripes, your pocket square can also be striped but with thicker stripes.

Remember to not overdo the patterns and ensure some articles of clothing are flat colours, which will accentuate the colours in your pocket square or tie.

Pocket square fabrics

Pocket squares are typically made from cotton, linen, or silk, but can also be made from wool and polyester. Each fabric has distinct properties, but texture is usually the main focus when choosing a pocket square fabric. For example, if you're wearing a fine, smooth tie, opt for a rougher cotton or wool pocket square. Conversely, if your tie is textured, a nice silk square will complement it well.

Cotton Pocket Squares

Cotton pocket squares are stiff and allow for structured folds. They are strong, durable, and resistant to abrasion. However, they can shrink with hot water washes and are prone to creasing, requiring ironing. Cotton pocket squares are also at risk of mildew when damp, and their dyes can fade over time.

Linen Pocket Squares

Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world and is made entirely from natural materials. It is highly resistant to wear and tear and is very light, making it a popular choice for summer. Linen pocket squares can be worn with a contrasting fabric like a tuxedo for a black-tie event, or with a double-breasted linen jacket. However, linen wrinkles very easily and requires frequent ironing.

Silk Pocket Squares

Silk is the most common pocket square material. It is smooth, luxurious, and shimmering, with soft edges that make it perfect for unstructured puff folds. Silk contrasts well with wool suits or jackets. However, silk pocket squares are usually ultra-thin and don't work well for structured folds. They are easily damaged by perspiration and bleach and are difficult to care for, requiring dry cleaning only. They are also quick to crease and tricky to iron.

Wool Pocket Squares

Wool pocket squares are best for the winter months and come in different types: alpaca wool, which is silky and lightweight with a lustre; angora wool, which has the best heat-retaining properties; cashmere, which is delicate and luxurious; and camel hair, known for its golden-brown colour, soft texture, and shine. Wool is generally difficult to wash and care for and is susceptible to damage by moths and other insects when stored. It also shrinks significantly with heat and moisture and should be dry-cleaned only with mild detergents. Wool is a thick fabric that can cause a bulging jacket pocket.

Polyester Pocket Squares

Polyester pocket squares are easy to store and have a low risk of mildew. They retain their shape and size over time but can have an artificial sheen in the light. Stains can be hard to remove from polyester.

Pocket square folding techniques

Pocket squares are a stylish accessory, but the rules around wearing one can be a bit of a minefield. The pocket square is having a moment—it's seen a huge surge in popularity over the past decade, but its roots can be traced back to ancient Egypt.

When to Wear a Pocket Square

Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending formal events, such as dinner parties. Even within the sphere of formal attire, there is scope to experiment with different arrangements and colours outside the standard white pocket square. Tonal monochrome shades work well with black or grey suits, while a vibrant pop of red adds interest to blue suits.

You can also wear a pocket square with a casual outfit, such as an open shirt and jacket combination.

How to Wear a Pocket Square

The purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look, either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. If your pocket square has a pattern or print, pick a colour from that palette to bring your look together. You could also choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core colour of your outfit.

It's best not to match your tie and pocket square exactly. Instead, choose a secondary colour from your tie as the primary colour for your pocket square. If your tie and pocket square are patterned, make sure your shirt and jacket are relatively plain.

There are many different ways to fold a pocket square, from simple to flamboyant. Here are some of the most popular folding techniques:

• The Classic and Presidential Folds: Simple, no-nonsense folds.
• The Puff and Reverse Puff: Equally simple to style, but add a bit more organic, unpredictable flair.
• The Three Peaks, The Winged Peak and The Angled Peaks: These peaked folds are ideal if you're into precision.
• The Rose and The Stairs: These folds are more challenging and will take your pocket square to the next level.
• The Winged Puff: A unique but simple way to fold a pocket square, featuring a triangular shape with two folds down the centre.
• The Three-Point: This technique produces three folded peaks.
• The One-Point: A scaled-down version of the three-point fold, this popular design features one crisp corner that's easily tucked into a suit jacket.
• The Flat Fold: Also known as the presidential pocket square, this is a timeless fold that can be worn during a variety of occasions, including weddings.

Pocket square history

The history of the pocket square is a rich but blurry one. Some believe that the pocket square in one form or another can trace its origins back to ancient Egypt, where small linen cloths were dyed with a red powder, indicating their decorative purpose and association with wealth. Others claim that the first use of a handkerchief as an accessory was in the 800s, when members of the Catholic Church would attach a white handkerchief to their left arm as a symbol of their devotion to God and the church.

A popular theory is that King Richard II of England was the first to wear a handkerchief as a fashion accessory during his reign from 1377 to 1399. At this time, the handkerchief was made from more exotic materials such as silk and was heavily embroidered, demonstrating wealth and status. The French nobility also scented their handkerchiefs to mask the odours resulting from a lack of bathing facilities.

In the 19th century, when the two-piece suit became popular, well-dressed men began to carry a handkerchief in their top left breast pocket to keep it separate from the coins and other objects in their pockets. This style continued to gain popularity into the early 20th century, with different folding techniques emerging, and the pocket square became a key fashion accessory for gentlemen.

During the 20th century, the popularity of the pocket square waxed and waned. It was popularised by stars such as James Cagney and Fred Astaire, but by the end of the century, it had once again become almost exclusively limited to dandies. Since the turn of the millennium, however, the pocket square has enjoyed a renaissance, becoming an essential part of the outfits of high-profile celebrities and fashionistas.

Pocket square storage

Pocket squares are a great way to add a subtle accent to your outfit and elevate your overall appearance. But with great pocket squares comes great responsibility—the responsibility to store them properly, that is. Here are some tips and product suggestions for pocket square storage:

Storage Options

There are various storage options available for pocket squares, from racks to drawer organisers.

• Racks: A pocket square rack is a great way to store your pocket squares and keep them organised. You can opt for a standard rack, which is typically 18" long with a metal bar to hold your pocket squares, or customise your own rack by choosing the size, wood, and hardware finish.
• Drawer organisers: Drawer organisers are perfect if you want to keep your pocket squares neat and tidy in a drawer. Look for organisers with compartments or cells specifically designed for storing pocket squares, scarves, or ties.
• Hanging closet organisers: If you prefer to hang your pocket squares, a dual-sided hanging closet organiser with multiple pockets can be a great space-saving option.
• Pocket square holders: Pocket square holders are designed to keep your pocket square folded neatly and in place. However, some sources advise against using holders because a correctly sized pocket square should be able to hold its fold without the need for a card or holder.

Factors to Consider

When choosing a storage option for your pocket squares, consider the following:

• Material: The material of your storage option is important, especially if you plan to store your pocket squares for extended periods. Opt for natural materials like wood or fabric rather than plastic to allow your pocket squares to breathe.
• Size: Ensure that the storage option you choose is the correct size for your pocket squares. For example, if you choose a rack, make sure the bar is long enough to accommodate the number of pocket squares you want to store.
• Protection: Consider the level of protection you want for your pocket squares. If you're concerned about dust or damage, opt for a storage option that covers your pocket squares, like a drawer organiser with a lid or a closet with a door.
• Accessibility: Think about how often you'll be using your pocket squares and how accessible you want them to be. For example, if you use your pocket squares daily, a rack or drawer organiser on your dresser might be more convenient than a closet organiser.

Examples of Pocket Square Storage Products

• Custom Pocket Square Racks from Dapper Woodworks: These racks allow you to choose the size, wood, and hardware finish to match your style and space.
• Assorted Pocket Square Holder for Men: This product is designed to keep your pocket squares organised and can be a great option if you're looking for a simple and affordable storage solution.
• SquareGuard by PocketSquares Pocket Square Holder: This holder is designed to keep your pocket squares neat and secure, and it's a popular choice on Amazon with over 400 purchases.
• Household Essentials Small Square Organizer Boxes: These storage boxes come in a set of two and are perfect for storing your pocket squares when not in use.
• DIMJ Sock Drawer Organizers: While designed for socks, these drawer organisers have 72 cells that can also be perfect for storing pocket squares and keeping them separated and organised.

Frequently asked questions