The Perfect Overcoat: Finding The Right Fit

Choosing the right size overcoat can be a tricky task, especially with the variety of styles, fabrics and cuts available. Overcoats are designed to be worn over suits, providing an additional layer of warmth and sophistication to your look. The key to finding the right size is to take accurate upper-body measurements and consider the type of weather you'll be wearing the coat in.

The first step is to measure your chest circumference, wrapping a tape measure around the broadest part of your chest, usually just under the armpits. Most companies size their overcoats to fit over a man wearing a suit of the same size, so if you wear a 36R or 36L suit, a 36 overcoat should accommodate you well. However, it's important to keep in mind what you plan to wear underneath, as you don't want the coat to be too snug or restrict your movement.

The second step is to measure your arm length. Place the measuring tape from your shoulder to your wrist, with your arm bent and your hand on your hip. This will ensure the sleeve is long enough and doesn't ride up when you move your arms.

The third step is to consider your height. Overcoats come in various lengths, from full-length traditional coats to 3/4 length modern fits. If you're on the shorter side, a coat that falls just above the knee will make you look taller, while taller men can opt for a longer coat that drapes elegantly.

Finally, it's a good idea to try on the overcoat to ensure a comfortable fit. Move around a little to see how the coat adjusts to your body. An overcoat should fit loosely over a suit, so if it feels tight in any area, consider sizing up.

With these measurements and considerations in mind, you'll be able to choose an overcoat that fits you like a glove!

Taking your measurements

If you already know your coat size, you can use this as a reference point for your overcoat size. Most companies size their overcoats to fit over a man wearing a suit of the same size. So, if you wear a 36R or 36L suit, you should be able to wear a 36 overcoat.

However, if you are unsure of your suit size, visit a professional tailor or buy a fabric measuring tape and find out for yourself.

• Chest: Wrap a measuring tape around the thickest part of your chest, usually just under the armpits. Let your arms rest at your sides while measuring so that your chest will be fully expanded and in its most natural position. It's usually a good idea to buy one size larger based on chest measurements so that you have ample room to move comfortably in your coat. If your measurement is between sizes, round up.
• Arm length: Lay the measuring tape down the side of your arm and measure the distance from shoulder to wrist. Keep your arms bent with your hands on your hips. This will ensure that the sleeve will be long enough and will not pull too high when you bend your arms.
• Height: Overcoats come in several different lengths. Full-length coats are the most traditional and cover the body almost down to the ankles. 3/4 length coats are a more popular modern fit and tend to come down to around knee level. Decide which style you prefer and how your height will play a factor in sizing the coat. If your measurements are unusual (for example, if you have a shorter stature but long arms), you may be better off having the garment professionally tailored.

Whether you're buying a coat off the rack or having one tailored, try it on and move around a little to observe how the coat fits and feels when in motion. An overcoat should fit comfortably and loosely over a suit, so if it feels snug in any area above the waist, consider moving up a size. If you're planning to wear your overcoat over a blazer or jacket, buy it a little larger. Be sure that it still fits you well, especially in the shoulders—the shoulder seams should align with the highest point of your shoulder.

Choosing a style

When choosing an overcoat, you should consider the climate where you live. If you live in an area with harsh winters, look for coats made from materials like wool and cashmere. If you live in a place with milder winters, a lighter weight overcoat made from waxed cotton or twill will be more suitable.

A Chesterfield coat is a traditional English-style coat that is usually knee-length and often worn in charcoal grey, navy or black. It has a very clean, simple silhouette, a centre-back vent, and no belt.

A Crombie coat is a soft-shouldered, thigh-length wool overcoat.

A Polo coat is double-breasted, with a belted waist and large lapels.

A Trench coat is loose-fitting, with a belt and epaulets. It is made from durable canvas and features a high collar.

A Peacoat is flared, waist-length, and naval-style with lapels.

A Duffel coat is thick, military-style, and made from wool with a built-in hood.

A Paletot is a classic double-breasted overcoat with peak lapels and no belt. It usually comes in dark colours such as navy or charcoal.

An Ulster coat is long and roomy, perfect for people who don't have to wear formal suits but want something stylish and warm. It is always double-breasted and comes with country details such as patch pockets and an Ulster collar.

A Covert coat is short, usually about 34 inches long and made from a special covered cloth in greenish or fawn tones. It features a huge poacher pocket.

When choosing a colour, dark grey, navy blue, or black are the most formal options. Dark browns, blues, and greens are traditional overcoat colours, while khaki and light brown shades are more business-casual. Brighter colours or patterns are best reserved for informal, social wear.

Wearing an overcoat

An overcoat is a versatile piece of clothing that can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion. Here are some tips on wearing an overcoat:

Choose the Right Size and Fit

The primary purpose of an overcoat is to provide warmth, so make sure it has enough room for layering. When trying one on, wear a jacket underneath to ensure the overcoat has sufficient space in the shoulder and upper arm areas. The overcoat's shoulders should extend slightly past where your suit jacket's shoulders fall, ending close to the highest point of your shoulder. You also want a little extra room in the chest and hip areas. If you plan to wear your overcoat with lighter layers or no layers at all, you can opt for a slimmer fit.

Opt for Knee-Length or Slightly Longer

During the Golden Age of Menswear, overcoats were cut long and voluminous, reaching the mid-calf or ankles. While these lengths can appear dated today, a longer overcoat will flatter your size and keep you warmer. As a general rule, go for a length that falls just above the knee or slightly below. Avoid shorter coats, as they can make your proportions look off, and stay away from anything too long, which can be cumbersome and drag on the floor.

Choose the Right Fabric and Colour

Overcoats are typically made from wool, cashmere, or blends of these materials, which provide warmth and durability. Avoid cheap, low-quality fabrics that won't stand up to the elements. When it comes to colour, classic options include black, grey, navy, camel, brown, and tan. These neutral shades are versatile and easy to match with the rest of your wardrobe. However, don't be afraid to add a pop of colour with your overcoat; during the Golden Age of Menswear, stylish gentlemen wore overcoats in an array of colours, including brown, tan, shades of blue, and most earth tones.

Accessorise

Complete your overcoat look with classic accessories like a scarf, gloves, and a hat. These elements will not only keep you warm but also add visual interest and a touch of personality to your ensemble. Opt for leather dress gloves instead of bulky, synthetic ones, and choose scarves made from luxurious materials like cashmere, wool, or alpaca. A classic hat can help emphasise the broad and masculine lines of your overcoat, making your entire outfit more cohesive.

Know When to Wear an Overcoat

An overcoat is meant to be worn when it's cold, providing warmth and protection from the elements. It can be worn in almost any situation, as long as it's not uncomfortably warm. Remember to remove your overcoat when heading indoors, as it should be the first layer you shed (aside from gloves or a scarf).

Bespoke vs off-the-rack

When it comes to choosing an overcoat, there are several options available, including bespoke and off-the-rack. Here is a detailed comparison between the two to help you decide which option suits your needs best:

Bespoke Overcoats

Bespoke overcoats are custom-made and tailored specifically to your body shape and measurements. You get to choose the fabric, style, and various other details to create a one-of-a-kind coat. This level of customisation ensures a sublime fit and allows you to highlight your individual style. The process involves multiple fittings to achieve the perfect fit, and the coat is handcrafted by expert tailors, resulting in exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail.

However, the biggest drawback of bespoke overcoats is the cost. A true custom garment is typically very expensive, and you'd be lucky to find one for under two thousand dollars. The process also requires more time and communication between the client and the tailor, and alterations can be made at any time.

Off-the-Rack Overcoats

Off-the-rack overcoats, also known as ready-to-wear, are mass-produced and available in department stores. They are designed to fit general sizing and come in various patterns and styles. While they may not offer a perfect fit, they are usually the most affordable option, making them ideal for those on a budget or first-time buyers.

The quality of off-the-rack overcoats can vary, and they often require alterations to achieve a better fit. These alterations can add to the overall cost, so it's advisable to budget for them. Additionally, the fabric used may not drape as well as a heavier fabric, and the coat may not hide flaws as effectively as a bespoke option.

The choice between bespoke and off-the-rack overcoats ultimately depends on your preferences, budget, and time frame. If you desire a unique coat with a perfect fit and are willing to invest the time and money, bespoke is the ideal choice. On the other hand, if you need a coat quickly and at a lower price point, off-the-rack options are more suitable, although alterations may be necessary to improve the fit.

Overcoat construction

When constructing an overcoat, it is important to keep in mind that it is meant to be worn over a suit jacket or a sport coat. Therefore, it is usually a little wider. However, the overcoat should still fit comfortably and loosely over a suit.

• Shoulder width: Ensure that the shoulder seam is slightly extended from the shoulder bone. This will allow for the extra layer of clothing underneath and prevent ugly wrinkles.
• Sleeve width and length: The sleeves should have enough width, especially at the top, to accommodate a sweater or a jacket. Avoid sleeves that are too tight, as this will restrict movement and comfort. The ideal sleeve length is one that ends at the beginning of the thumb.
• Torso fit: The ideal fit of the torso is an hourglass shape, broad at the top, slightly accentuated at the waist, and then broader again. This shape is masculine and accentuates the V-shape of the body.
• Length: The length of the overcoat is important as it changes the entire look of the garment. A length that is about knee-length or slightly longer is ideal as it keeps the wearer warm and looks proportional. However, for shorter individuals, a slightly shorter overcoat can make them appear taller.
• Closure: Overcoats traditionally have a button closure, with double-breasted overcoats being better suited for colder climates as they provide two layers of fabric over the chest.
• Fabric: Overcoats are typically made from natural fabrics such as wool or cashmere, although blends such as wool and cashmere are also common. The fabric should be heavy enough to drape well and hide flaws.
• Colour: Navy, blue, gray, brown, and tan tones are versatile choices for overcoat colours. It is best to choose a fabric with a large-scale pattern to contrast with the suit and accessory patterns.
• Construction quality: Higher-end overcoats feature a sewn or floating canvas, while lower-end models have a glued canvas that may not last as long.

Frequently asked questions