The Gloverall Coat: A British Icon, Past And Present

Gloverall coats are made in England. The company was founded in 1951 by Harold and Freda Morris, owners of Gloves and Overall wholesalers H&F Morris, and is rooted in British fashion and culture. The coats are made from high-quality materials and the finest fabrics, with heritage and craftsmanship at the forefront of their design.

Gloverall's British heritage and history

Gloverall is a British brand of outerwear, renowned for its classic British design and high-quality duffle coats. The company was founded by Harold and Freda Morris, owners of Gloves and Overall wholesalers H&F Morris. With roots in the sensibilities of British fashion and culture, Gloverall has always prioritised the use of high-quality materials and the finest fabrics to produce timeless designer items that are proudly made in England.

The story of Gloverall began in the aftermath of World War II, when the couple established the company to sell surplus WW2 Naval duffle coats. Harold, the son of a Master Tailor, saw an opportunity to make small changes to the original design, including a streamlined silhouette, leather straps instead of thick jute fastening, and buffalo horn toggles to increase the style's fashion appeal. This marked the beginning of Gloverall's journey towards becoming a fashionable and desirable outerwear brand.

The early days of Gloverall were shaped by the surplus duffle coats from the war. As the supply from the War Office diminished, Gloverall began designing its own coats, introducing innovative features that would transform the perception of the duffle coat from function to fashion. The introduction of the two-piece horizontally split 'pancake hood' in the iconic 'Original English Duffle Coat' cemented Gloverall's success and propelled its position in the outerwear market.

Gloverall's duffle coats gained widespread popularity in the 1950s and 1960s, with Field Marshal Montgomery popularising the iconic 'Monty' look during World War II. The coats were also favoured by Colonel David Stirling, who wore his duffle coat even in the desert. After the war, the military released surplus duffle coats to the public, and they became a favourite among artists, students, and intellectuals. The coats were also popularised by film director Jean Cocteau, who often wore his duffle coat with formal suits.

Gloverall's expansion continued with global demand, leading to the opening of a state-of-the-art factory in Wellingborough, Northamptonshire, reinforcing its commitment to the 'Made in UK' credentials. The company achieved significant global sales in over forty countries, including major markets in North America, Scandinavia, and Japan, where it became the biggest export market.

Throughout its history, Gloverall has remained true to its British heritage and craftsmanship, using high-quality materials and attention to detail. The brand has collaborated with renowned designers such as Vivienne Westwood and has been recognised by the monarchy, with Prince Charles wearing their coats and the company being formally recognised in the Silver Jubilee Honours list. Today, Gloverall continues to be world-renowned as a British luxury outerwear brand, celebrating its legacy and timeless designs.

The design and evolution of the duffle coat

The duffle coat has a long and rich history, with its design evolving over the course of the last century. The coat's name is derived from the Belgian town of Duffel, where the manufacturing process of the thick woollen fabric used for the coats originated. The design of the duffle coat, however, was first developed in the 1850s by British outerwear manufacturer John Partridge, who was likely inspired by the hooded Polish military frock coat that had gained popularity in continental Europe during that time.

The duffle coat was initially adopted by the British Royal Navy in the 1880s or 1890s due to its large size, which allowed it to fit over a naval cap, and its easy-to-undo toggle fastenings, which were convenient for sailors in cold weather. The coat was modified slightly during World War II, becoming known as the "Monty coat" after Field Marshal Sir Bernard Montgomery, who often wore it. During this time, the coat was widely issued to British troops and became a symbol of steadfastness and refusal to concede.

After World War II, large stocks of surplus duffle coats became available to civilians in England, and the coat gained popularity, especially among students and intellectuals. The firm Gloverall purchased and sold these wholesale garments in the early 1950s, and in 1954, they began producing their own version with a few modern changes. Gloverall's duffle coat featured leather fastenings, buffalo horn toggles, and a double-faced check lining. This new version of the duffle coat was more fashion-forward, with a slimmer fit that appealed to women as well as men. The fabric was also changed to a lightweight material, and the hood and pockets were made smaller and more practical.

Today, the duffle coat is often made from Melton cloth, a softer wool fabric with a distinct nap, rather than the traditional duffel cloth. The coat has remained an iconic fashion item, with celebrities such as David Bowie and members of Oasis sporting the look. It has also appeared in numerous films, including "The Third Man" (1949) and "Dead Poets Society" (1989).

The global popularity of Gloverall coats

Gloverall is a British brand of outerwear known for its high-quality duffle coats. The company was established by Harold and Freda Morris, owners of Gloves and Overall wholesalers H&F Morris, in 1951. The brand's roots can be traced back to the late 1940s when the couple began selling surplus WW2 Naval duffle coats.

Gloverall coats have appeared in several notable films, including "The Third Man" (1949), "The Cruel Sea" (1953), "The Man Who Fell to Earth" (1976), "Dead Poets Society" (1989), and "A Fantastic Fear of Everything" (2012). This exposure has undoubtedly contributed to the brand's recognition and appeal worldwide.

In addition to their on-screen appearances, Gloverall has also collaborated with renowned designers and brands to create exclusive collections. For instance, they joined forces with Tony Sylvester, owner and designer at AWMS, to create a three-piece collection that blends signature branded colours with traditional designs. Gloverall has also collaborated with global designers such as Comme des Garcons and the legendary Vivienne Westwood, further elevating their reputation in the fashion industry.

Moreover, Gloverall coats are known for their unique design and craftsmanship. The brand introduced a slimmed-down version of the duffle coat for women and later for children, making the style more accessible and desirable. The introduction of the two-piece horizontally split 'pancake hood' and the iconic 'Original English Duffle Coat' further propelled Gloverall's success. The company's commitment to quality and attention to detail has solidified its position as a fashionable and desirable outerwear brand.

The global demand for Gloverall coats led to the opening of a state-of-the-art factory in Wellingborough, Northamptonshire, reinforcing its "Made in UK" credentials. The brand has achieved significant global sales in over forty countries, with major markets in North America, Scandinavia, and Japan.

Gloverall coats have become a staple in the wardrobes of people worldwide, with their timeless design, high-quality materials, and craftsmanship. The brand's ability to adapt to changing trends, collaborate with diverse designers, and maintain its commitment to quality has contributed to its enduring global popularity.

The materials used to make Gloverall coats

Gloverall coats are made from a variety of materials, depending on the style and the year of production. The company is known for its use of high-quality materials and fabrics, with a focus on craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The Original Monty duffle coat, first produced in the 1950s, is made from a heavy, coarse woollen fabric, typically with a weight of 34 ounces per yard. This fabric is double-faced, boiled wool with a twill structure, creating a warm and durable coat. The fabric was sourced from Italy and, later, modified to include synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyamide, blended with wool. The inclusion of synthetic fibres enhances the water-repellent properties of the fabric and makes the coat more hard-wearing.

Some Gloverall coats feature a checked inner side, made from wool with some addition of synthetics. This checked inner side is not a lining, as the layers of fabric are not agglutinated but seamed, allowing the coat to be breathable while still retaining warmth.

In the 1950s, when the company first started, the fabric used was a 34-ounce Tyrolean Loden fabric. Loden is a type of woollen fabric that is woven and then felted, providing a water-repellent finish that is durable and ideal for outdoor use.

Over the years, Gloverall has also used other traditional fabrics such as camel hair, tweed, gabardine, and popeline for summer coats. The company has also experimented with different materials, such as corduroy, and collaborated with other brands to create unique fabric combinations. For example, their collaboration with the South Korean brand Bastong resulted in the use of Casentino, an Italian woollen fabric with noticeable pills, giving the coat an unusual look.

In terms of colour, Gloverall coats come in a variety of shades, including navy, sandy, beige, camel, burgundy, loden, brown, black, grey, red, racing green, olive green, fawn, yellow, and white.

The different styles of Gloverall coats

Gloverall coats are renowned for their classic British design and heritage. The brand's iconic duffle coats are a cornerstone of practicality and style, working for both men and women across formal and informal settings. With a range of colours, styles, and collaborations, there is a Gloverall coat for everyone.

The Original Monty Duffle Coat

The Original Monty Duffle Coat is a classic, with colours including charcoal, navy, black, brown, pine green, camel, and grey. The coat is also available in a tartan pattern.

The Mid Monty Duffle Coat

The Mid Monty Duffle Coat is a shorter version of the Original Monty, with the same range of colours, as well as burgundy. This coat also features Union Jack designs in charcoal, navy, and camel.

The Morris Duffle Coat

The Morris Duffle Coat is available in a variety of colours and patterns, including black, brown, grey, camel, and navy. The coat also comes in several different tartan patterns, including Black Stewart, Brown Tartan, and Loden Check.

The Harrison Duffle Coat

The Harrison Duffle Coat is a more limited style, with only three colours: camel, rust, and navy.

The Drake Duffle Coat

The Drake Duffle Coat is a more niche style, with only two colours: charcoal and navy. There is also a Cashmere Drake Duffle Coat in Midnight.

The Mersey Duffle Coat

The Mersey Duffle Coat is a lightweight, breathable, and showerproof summer raincoat. It is available in Poseidon Blue, Tie Dye, and Khaki.

Traditional Jackets

Gloverall also offers a range of traditional men's jackets, including chore jackets, safari jackets, parkas, and blazers. These jackets are ideal transitional garments, offering the option to layer and combine style with form and function.

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