The Evolution Of The T-Shirt Name

The T-shirt is a ubiquitous piece of clothing today, but its history is often overlooked. The T-shirt started as an item of underwear in the 19th century, when labourers in America cut their jumpsuits in half to cope with the summer heat. The first manufactured T-shirt was invented between the Spanish-American War in 1898 and 1913, when it became standard issue in the US Navy’s uniform. But where did the name come from?

The T-shirt's origins as underwear

The T-shirt started as an item of underwear. In the 19th century, labourers in America cut their jumpsuits in half to keep cool in the summer heat. The first manufactured T-shirt was invented between the Spanish-American War in 1898 and 1913, when the U.S. Navy began issuing them as standard undershirts. The Navy specified that sailors should wear these buttonless undershirts under their uniforms.

In 1904, the Cooper Underwear Company ran a magazine ad for a "bachelor undershirt" that was stretchy enough to be pulled over the head. This type of crew-neck shirt had evolved out of the long johns that men wore in the 19th century, when garment makers experimented with methods to allow the fabric to stretch over the head and then snap back into shape. In the 1890s, the cotton pullover still looked like underwear to most people, and wearing it in public was considered scandalous.

In 1913, the U.S. Navy began issuing T-shirts as standard undershirts. These were crew-necked, short-sleeved, white cotton undershirts to be worn under a uniform. It became common for sailors and Marines to remove their uniform jackets, wearing only the undershirt. They soon became popular as a bottom layer of clothing for workers in various industries, including agriculture. The T-shirt was easily fitted, easily cleaned, and inexpensive.

By the 1920s, the T-shirt was often the default garment to be worn when doing farm or ranch chores, as well as other times when modesty called for a torso covering but conditions called for lightweight fabrics. Following World War II, it was common to see Navy men and veterans wearing their T-shirts as undergarments, tucked into their trousers. Slowly, the T-shirt became common as casual clothing.

F. Scott Fitzgerald's use of the term T-shirt

The T-shirt, named after the T shape of its body and sleeves, has a long history that dates back to the 19th century when it was used as an undergarment. Over time, it evolved from being an undergarment to becoming a staple in casual clothing. F. Scott Fitzgerald, the famous American novelist, played a significant role in popularising the term "T-shirt".

In 1920, Fitzgerald used the term "T-shirt" in his novel, "This Side of Paradise". The term appeared in a list of items that the protagonist, Amory, packs before heading to boarding school:

> "So early in September Amory, provided with 'six suits summer underwear, six suits winter underwear, one sweater or T-shirt, one jersey, one overcoat, winter, etc.,' set out for New England, the land of schools."

Fitzgerald assumed that his readers would be familiar with the term "T-shirt" and associate it with the "white-flannelled, bareheaded youths" of New England prep schools. This assumption suggests that the term "T-shirt" was already in common usage, even if it had not yet been documented in print.

By the 1940s, T-shirts had become a ubiquitous part of high school students' wardrobes, with teenagers customising their T-shirts with sew-on patches, fringe, and even inscriptions. The T-shirt had transitioned from being an undergarment to a form of self-expression and a stand-alone piece of clothing.

Today, T-shirts are widely popular and are often used for self-expression, advertising, and souvenirs. They are inexpensive to produce and are a significant part of the fashion industry, with various designs, fabrics, and styles available.

Marlon Brando and James Dean's influence

The T-shirt's evolution from undergarments to outerwear was influenced by several factors, including the adoption by the US Navy as standard undershirts in 1913, their use by Navy men and veterans as casual clothing following World War II, and their growing popularity as outerwear among boys. However, it was Marlon Brando and James Dean's rebellious on-screen personas and their embrace of the T-shirt as a fashion item that propelled it to iconic status.

Marlon Brando's portrayal of Stanley Kowalski in the 1951 film "A Streetcar Named Desire" is often cited as a pivotal moment in the T-shirt's journey from undergarment to fashionable outerwear. Brando's character, a gritty and brutish New Orleans labourer, wore a tight-fitting T-shirt to showcase his muscular physique and raw sex appeal. This image of Brando in a T-shirt, exuding masculinity and rebelliousness, captured the public imagination and inspired a generation of young men to adopt the T-shirt as a symbol of youthful rebellion and freedom. Brando's influence on the popularisation of the T-shirt cannot be overstated, as he helped transform it from a utilitarian undergarment to a powerful statement of personal style and attitude.

James Dean, another iconic actor of the 1950s, also played a significant role in the rise of the T-shirt as a fashion staple. Dean's performances in films like "Rebel Without a Cause" (1955) and his off-screen persona as a brooding, rebellious youth, often clad in a T-shirt, jeans, and a leather or red windbreaker, further solidified the garment's association with youthful rebellion and individualism. Dean's tragic and untimely death in a car accident at the age of 24 only added to his allure and the allure of the T-shirt as a symbol of non-conformity and freedom.

Both Brando and Dean embodied the restless and defiant spirit of post-World War II youth, and their on-screen personas challenged traditional ideals of masculinity and respect for authority. Their influence extended beyond the silver screen, shaping not just fashion trends but also societal attitudes and behaviours. The T-shirt, as a result of their influence, became more than just a garment; it became a symbol of a cultural shift, a rejection of the past, and an embrace of individual expression and freedom.

Today, the T-shirt remains a wardrobe staple and a powerful vehicle for self-expression, thanks in no small part to the enduring legacy of Marlon Brando and James Dean. Their influence continues to be felt in popular culture, and their association with the T-shirt has ensured their place as enduring style icons.

T-shirts as a form of self-expression

The T-shirt has come a long way since its inception in the 19th century. Initially an undergarment, it has since become a ubiquitous item of clothing, often used as a form of self-expression.

The T-shirt's evolution from undergarment to outerwear is largely attributed to Hollywood icons Marlon Brando and James Dean, who wore them in "A Streetcar Named Desire" and "Rebel Without a Cause", respectively, in the 1950s. This marked a turning point in the perception of T-shirts, as they became associated with rebellion and masculinity.

The T-shirt's role as a form of self-expression was further solidified in the 1960s and 1970s, when advancements in printing technology, such as the invention of Plastisol ink, made it easier and more accessible to print on T-shirts. This opened up new possibilities for customisation, allowing people to use T-shirts as a blank canvas to showcase their personalities, interests, and beliefs.

The punk movement of the 1970s played a significant role in establishing the T-shirt as a powerful messaging platform. With their anti-establishment attitudes, punk rockers embraced graphic T-shirts as a means to shock, outrage, and challenge the status quo. The rising popularity of rock band logos and protests against the Vietnam War also contributed to the T-shirt's status as a vehicle for self-expression.

Since then, T-shirts have become an integral part of fashion and self-expression across the globe. They serve as a medium for individuals to convey a wide range of messages, from political and social statements to humorous and ironic designs. The T-shirt's versatility allows it to be worn as high fashion or casual wear, making it accessible to people from all walks of life.

Today, T-shirts continue to be a popular choice for individuals looking to express themselves and connect with others who share similar interests, beliefs, or causes. Whether it's supporting a favourite band, promoting a political cause, or simply making a fashion statement, the T-shirt remains a powerful tool for self-expression in modern culture.

T-shirts as high fashion

T-shirts have come a long way since their humble beginnings as undergarments for the US Navy in World War I. In the 1950s, the T-shirt became widely accepted as daywear, thanks in part to Marlon Brando's smouldering performance in 'A Streetcar Named Desire'. Brando's portrayal of Stanley gave the T-shirt sex appeal, and it was quickly adopted by musicians and advertisers.

In the following decades, the T-shirt became a blank canvas for political and social movements, from the psychedelic tie-dye of the 1960s to the politically charged T-shirts of the 1970s and 1980s, and Vivienne Westwood's punk aesthetic. The rise of athleisure and luxury streetwear in the 1990s further elevated the T-shirt's status in the fashion world, with fashion labels collaborating with sportswear brands.

Today, T-shirts are considered essential to any fashion house's collection. They have become the new entry-level purchase, allowing consumers to own a piece of a luxury brand without the high cost of ready-to-wear lines. Designer T-shirts can now be worth upwards of $750, and luxury brands have recognised the appeal of these simple garments, creating one-off items and limited "drops" to increase their desirability.

The T-shirt's popularity in high fashion can also be attributed to the rise of social media. An instantly recognisable logo on a graphic T-shirt is a powerful form of advertising, and traditional luxury brands are embracing the move towards streetwear to capitalise on this trend. With streetwear designers like Virgil Abloh being appointed artistic director of Louis Vuitton, and Ralph Lauren collaborating with Palace, the fusion of high fashion and T-shirts shows no signs of slowing down.

The versatility and affordability of T-shirts have made them a staple in wardrobes around the world. They can be dressed up or down, layered, or worn on their own. The best T-shirts for men, for example, should be a mixture of style, comfort, and versatility, transitioning seamlessly from casual outings to semi-formal gatherings. Whether made from moisture-wicking fabrics or heavyweight cotton, great T-shirts are durable, comfortable, and flattering.

T-shirts have become a powerful medium for self-expression, allowing wearers to showcase their personality, make political or social statements, or advertise a brand or event. From high-end designer logos to graphic prints, vintage-inspired boxy cuts to physique-flattering slim fits, the T-shirt has truly evolved from its humble beginnings and established itself as a cornerstone of high fashion.

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