Buttoning Your Sport Coat: Which Button?

There are many rules when it comes to buttoning a men's sports coat, and they vary depending on the number of buttons and the style of the jacket. For example, a single-breasted jacket with two buttons should always have the top button buttoned and the bottom button left open. This is because leaving the bottom button open allows for more freedom of movement and makes the suit look fitted and snug. On the other hand, a double-breasted jacket should always be buttoned, except for the bottom button, as leaving buttons open will make the wearer look disorganized.

Single-breasted jackets

One-Button Single-Breasted Jackets

Button up when standing to avoid looking sloppy, and unbutton when sitting to prevent unflattering bunching, wrinkles, and creases.

Two-Button Single-Breasted Jackets

The top button should be buttoned when standing and unbuttoned when sitting. The bottom button should never be buttoned. Modern suits are designed on the assumption that the bottom button will be left unfastened, so fastening it will look inelegant.

Three-Button Single-Breasted Jackets

The rule for three-button jackets is: "sometimes, always, never". That is, the top button is optional, the middle button should always be buttoned, and the bottom button should never be buttoned.

One-button jackets

The rule for one-button jackets is that they should always be buttoned when standing. This maintains a balanced proportion and creates a streamlined silhouette, forming a fine V-shape on the jacket. However, when you sit down, the jacket should be unbuttoned to avoid creasing. Leaving the jacket buttoned when sitting down can cause the fabric to stress and make the jacket feel uncomfortable.

It is important to note that not buttoning a one-button jacket when standing can make you look crass, especially at a formal event.

Two-button jackets

The rules for buttoning a two-button jacket are simple:

The top button is the only button that should be buttoned, and only when standing. When sitting, the jacket should be unbuttoned to avoid creases. The bottom button should never be buttoned. This is because modern suits are designed with the assumption that the bottom button will remain unfastened, so buttoning it will look odd and ill-fitting.

There are a few exceptions to the rule. For example, very tall men may need to use the lower button to prevent the jacket from spreading out above their waist and exposing their belt buckle. In this case, a three-button suit jacket is preferable.

Additionally, men who like a very long lapel may button the lower button and fold the lapel down past the top buttonhole. An unusually high-stance jacket might also look more proportional buttoned at the lower button.

It's worth noting that these rules are more relaxed for sports jackets than suits, as sports jackets are a more casual style.

Three-button jackets

The three-button jacket is a classic style that can be tailored to the wearer's preferences. When it comes to buttoning a three-button jacket, the traditional rule is "sometimes, always, never", referring to the top, middle, and bottom buttons, respectively.

The top button is optional to button, depending on the wearer's preference and the jacket's style. Closing the top button can create a more formal look, but it may need to be left unbuttoned if it interferes with the lapel's natural fold. The middle button should always be buttoned to pull the jacket together at the wearer's natural waist, allowing the bottom to flare out stylishly around the hips. The bottom button should never be buttoned, as doing so would ruin the jacket's intended tailoring and flare.

It is important to unbutton all buttons when sitting down to prevent creasing and maintain the jacket's shape. Additionally, leaving the bottom button unbuttoned is generally recommended for all suit jackets, as it allows the jacket to fall more naturally across the body.

Double-breasted jackets

However, the bottom right button can be left open. Double-breasted jackets are described according to their button configuration. For example, a 6x2 jacket has six buttons but only two buttonholes.

The two-button double-breasted jacket is not commonly seen today because it is thought of as a relic of the 1980s. Button the one (and only) working button.

The four-button double-breasted jacket is not the most popular style, but it is timeless and classic. The 4x1 is more common than the 4x2. For the 4x1, you only need to fasten the bottom working button. For the 4x2, fasten either the top, bottom, or both buttons.

The six-button double-breasted jacket is the most popular style. The most common six-button double-breasted silhouette is two rows of buttons that are parallel with the top pair spaced further apart. It creates a nice V-shape that accentuates the male attractive silhouette. Traditionally, you’d button both of the bottom buttons for a very classic look. However, most men leave the bottom button undone for a more nonchalant air.

For jackets with more than six buttons, it’s important to pay attention to how you button both the inside and outside buttons, as the wrong button fastened can pull the fabric and make it look off-kilter.

Frequently asked questions