The Wonky Tail Coat: A Unique Style Statement

Willy Wonka, the eccentric chocolatier from Roald Dahl's Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, is known for his flamboyant and distinctive fashion sense, which includes a bright purple or violet tailcoat. The character's unique attire has made him a popular choice for cosplay and Halloween costumes, with many fans wanting to replicate his iconic look.

Tailcoats are the most formal option for evening events

The tailcoat is the star of the white-tie ensemble and is considered the "king of all male civilian garments". It is a black tailcoat, also known as a dress coat, worn over a white dress shirt with a starched or pique bib, a white piqué waistcoat, and a white bow tie. The lapels are always peaked and substantial in breadth, and the coat is double-breasted with two buttons and a single vent at the back. The trousers are mid or high-waisted black trousers, and the outfit is completed with court shoes.

The tailcoat is always cut on a straight line to the knee, with the front points finishing at the hipbone. It should be somewhat snug across the chest, and the buttons at the back should sit just above the hips. The coat's tails should fall straight down the legs and end just below the back of the knee. The collar should be high enough to cover the stud at the back of the dress shirt's collar and the bow tie's band, while leaving at least 3/4 inch of the wing collar exposed.

The history of the white-tie dress code can be traced back to the end of the 18th century, with the emergence of more austere clothing inspired by the dark hues and simpler designs adopted by country gentlemen. By the early 19th century, dark dress tailcoats with light trousers became standard daywear, while black and white became the standard colours for evening wear. Despite the emergence of the more comfortable semi-formal black-tie dress code in the 1880s, full evening dress tailcoats remained popular.

Today, white tie is reserved for the most formal evening occasions, such as banquets, state dinners, formal balls, traditional weddings, and certain university events. It is also the formal dress code for royal and public ceremonies, as well as a select group of other social events in some countries.

Tailcoats are not suitable for black-tie events

The black-tie dress code is a step up from the standard suit and tie of the business/lounge/wedding suit. It is a formal evening wear code that requires a specific set of garments and accessories.

The black-tie outfit typically includes a white dress shirt with a Marcella front, a wing collar, and double cuffs with cufflinks. The trousers should be formal, pressed, and ideally with a single row of braid or satin fabric on the outside of each leg. They should be black, fitted, and tapered. For shoes, black patent leather shoes or velvet slippers are recommended.

The jacket is the key component of the black-tie outfit. It is known as a dinner jacket and is traditionally made of barathea wool in black. It features satin lapels, buttons, and pockets.

The tie is always a bow tie, and while it can be in colours other than black, white is reserved for the white-tie dress code. A waistcoat is optional but should match the jacket and should never be worn with a cummerbund.

The black-tie dress code is often associated with important events such as awards ceremonies, milestone birthday parties, grandiose weddings, and prestigious balls. It is a formal event that requires a certain level of formal behaviour and etiquette.

While the term "tuxedo" is sometimes used interchangeably with a black-tie dinner jacket, it specifically refers to the latter. The tuxedo is intended to be worn with black-tie, not white-tie.

In summary, tailcoats are not suitable for black-tie events as they do not adhere to the specific dress code requirements. The black-tie dress code has a well-defined set of garments and accessories that should be followed to ensure a polished and elegant look.

Tuxedos are historically casual garments

Tuxedos, or "dinner jackets" as they were originally known, were introduced in 1865 by trend-setting Prince Edward VII as an alternative to the more formal tailcoat. The garment was designed to be worn in dining rooms and informal settings, and typically featured a black shawl collar and matching pants.

By the early 20th century, the tuxedo had become popular in America, with millionaire James Brown Potter wearing it to the Autumn Ball in Tuxedo Park, New York, where the American moniker of the suit was popularized. At this time, the tuxedo was acceptable in formal situations and was typically paired with black accessories and a peaked lapel.

The tuxedo continued to evolve over the years, with midnight blue and grey tuxedos gaining popularity in the 1930s, and white tuxedo jackets becoming a staple in the 1940s, particularly in warmer seasons and climates. The 1960s and 1970s saw the introduction of new materials, such as polyester, and more intricate patterns and colours. This era also saw the rise of disco, which influenced tuxedo styles with huge, floppy bow ties, colourful patterned jackets, ruffles, and lace.

In the 1980s, a more conservative look returned, with dark colours, slim cuts, and minimal accessories becoming popular once again. Today, the tuxedo is experiencing a resurgence, with young men adopting the black-tie styles of the '30s and '40s, and period dramas like "Mad Men" inspiring a return to classic styles.

So, while the tuxedo has certainly had its moments of formality, it has also been considered casual attire at various points in its history, especially when compared to more formal tailcoats and white-tie attire. Thus, the tuxedo has been a versatile garment that has adapted to the changing trends and needs of each era.

The difference between a morning coat and a tailcoat

The morning coat, also known as morning dress or morning suit, is formal men's attire worn during the daytime. It is the traditional garment for men at weddings, daytime events, official functions, and formal memorial services. The jacket is always referred to as a morning coat and is single-breasted with link closure, one button, or rarely, two buttons. It has pointed lapels and may include silk piping on the edges of the coat and lapels. The trousers should sit high, and the legs should be just long enough to break once above the shoe. The waistcoat is usually buff, grey, or blue and can be double or single-breasted. The shoes are typically highly polished black lace-up or smart slip-on shoes.

The tailcoat, on the other hand, is worn for white tie events, which are the most formal of dress codes. It is typically paired with high-waisted trousers, a white waistcoat, a wing-collared dress shirt, a white bow tie, and patent leather pumps. The tailcoat is invariably double-breasted and cut small so that the fronts don't fasten, even with three buttons on each front. It has a peak lapel faced in satin, which the morning coat lacks. The waistline of the tailcoat follows the wearer's natural waistline, and the coat and waistcoat end shortly after the waist.

In summary, the key differences between the morning coat and the tailcoat lie in the formality of the occasion, the cut and style of the jacket, and the specific accessories that complete the outfit. The morning coat is worn for formal daytime events and has a single-breasted jacket with pointed lapels and no satin facing. The tailcoat, reserved for white tie events, is more formal and features a double-breasted jacket with a peak lapel and satin facing.

Tailcoats are worn for white-tie events

The tailcoat is worn over a white dress shirt with a starched or pique bib, a white piqué waistcoat, and a white bow tie. The trousers are mid or high-waisted and black with a galon – a braid of trim consisting of two silk stripes to conceal the outer seams of the trousers. The shoes are typically court shoes (or pumps in American English). Orders, decorations and medals may be worn, as well as accessories such as a black top hat, white gloves, a white scarf, a pocket watch, a white pocket square and a boutonnière.

White-tie events are rare, but they include banquets, state dinners, audiences, formal balls, weddings and certain university events.

Frequently asked questions