Tailoring Sport Coats: A Guide

Whether you should get a sports coat tailored depends on a few factors. Firstly, it's important to note that the shoulders of a sports coat are very difficult to alter, so if the shoulders don't fit, it's probably not worth tailoring. If the shoulders fit, you can typically tailor a sports coat up or down by one size without too many issues. Other alterations that are usually possible include shortening the sleeves, taking in or letting out the waist, and tapering the legs. However, it's important to keep in mind that the cost of alterations can add up quickly, so it may not be worth it if the coat is very inexpensive.

Shoulder fit is key: the jacket's shoulder seams should sit on the end of your actual shoulder

When it comes to sport coats, the fit of the shoulders is crucial. The jacket's shoulder seams should sit at the end of your actual shoulder, not beyond it. This is the most important thing to pay attention to when buying a suit jacket, sport coat, or blazer.

If the shoulder seams are too far past your natural shoulder, you will see extremely visible "shoulder divots" when you lift your arms even slightly. This is a telltale sign that the jacket doesn't fit you. The amount of padding in the shoulder will also affect the smoothness of the shoulder. A structured shoulder with more padding will result in less rumpling, whereas an unstructured, unpadded jacket will have more rumpling.

Shoulder alterations are often impossible and can be very costly. Most tailors won't even attempt them, as they can make the suit look worse. Therefore, if the shoulders are too wide or narrow, it's best to choose a different jacket.

To achieve the ideal fit, the line that forms from your shoulders down your arms should be as smooth and uninterrupted as possible. The jacket should follow the lines of your body smoothly.

If you're buying an off-the-rack jacket, you may have to try on several jackets from different brands to find the one that fits your shoulders perfectly. Going for a custom or bespoke suit is another option to ensure the best fit.

Basic adjustments are easy and cheap: the waist should be suppressed, the pants hemmed, and the sleeves shortened

When it comes to tailoring a suit jacket, sport coat, or blazer, basic adjustments are easy and cheap to make. Here are three essential alterations that can significantly improve the fit of your jacket:

Suppressing the Waist

The waist of the jacket can be taken in to create a slimmer silhouette. This alteration is simple for any tailor to handle and can make a big difference in the overall fit of the jacket.

Hemming the Pants

Ensuring the pants are the correct length is crucial. Hemming the pants to the appropriate length for your body will create a more polished and put-together look.

Shortening the Sleeves

Adjusting the sleeve length is a common alteration. If the sleeves are too long, they can be shortened from the wrist or the shoulder, depending on the type of sleeve buttons. Shortening the sleeves from the wrist is typically easier and cheaper if the jacket has non-functional sleeve buttons.

These basic adjustments are a great starting point for tailoring your sport coat to ensure a better fit. However, for a truly perfect fit, you may need to consider additional alterations to address specific problem areas.

A suit jacket is complex and can't be shrunk multiple sizes: proportions will be altered, and the structure will need to be reconstructed

A suit jacket is a complex garment, and its size cannot be reduced significantly without altering its proportions and structure. While a tailor can make small adjustments to the jacket, such as shortening the sleeves or taking in the waist, they cannot simply shrink it down multiple sizes.

The construction of a suit jacket is intricate, involving multiple components such as lining, canvas, padding, and pockets. When altering the size of a suit jacket, each of these elements needs to be adjusted accordingly, which can be a challenging and costly process. In some cases, it may be more cost-effective to purchase a new jacket that fits better rather than attempting to alter the existing one by multiple sizes.

Additionally, the fabric and structure of a suit jacket are designed to work together harmoniously. Shrinking a suit jacket by multiple sizes can disrupt this balance, affecting the drape and overall appearance of the jacket. The fabric may not shrink evenly, resulting in an uneven fit that is challenging to rectify.

Furthermore, the shoulders of a suit jacket are particularly challenging to alter. If the shoulders are too wide or narrow, it is usually best to choose a different jacket rather than attempting to adjust them. Altering the shoulders can affect the overall structure and balance of the jacket, and it is often a costly and complex process that not all tailors are willing to undertake.

In conclusion, while a suit jacket can be tailored to achieve a better fit, there are limitations to how much it can be altered. Reducing the size of a suit jacket by multiple sizes is not advisable, as it would require significant changes to the proportions and structure of the jacket, which could compromise its overall appearance and functionality.

A tailor can take in seams to make your suit slimmer or let them out for a more relaxed fit

A tailor can make your suit slimmer by taking in the seams, and they can let out the seams for a more relaxed fit. This is a cheap and easy alteration that can be done by any decent tailor, and even some dry cleaners.

If you're looking to make your suit slimmer, the tailor will "take in" the seams, making the garment smaller. This is done by un-sewing the seam and then re-sewing it deeper into the garment, further away from the edge of the fabric. The tailor will balance the proportions of the garment and reshape the connecting pattern pieces to accommodate the desired change.

If you want a more relaxed fit, the tailor will "let out" the seams, making the garment bigger. This is done by un-sewing the seam and re-sewing it further out, towards the edge of the fabric. The tailor will only be able to let out the garment if there is additional fabric available to work with under the seam. Most ready-to-wear manufacturers cut costs by leaving as little excess fabric in the garment as possible, so a bespoke suit is usually a better option if you're looking to let out the seams.

When buying a suit, it's important to pay attention to how the shoulders fit. Ideally, your jacket's shoulder seams should sit at the end of your actual shoulder, not past them. Shoulder alterations are often impossible and will only make your suit look worse, so if the shoulders are too wide or narrow, don't buy the jacket.

The fabric availability and original cut will determine the degree of alteration possible

When it comes to tailoring a sport coat, the fabric availability and original cut will determine the degree of alteration possible. While it is generally possible to take in or let out seams to achieve a slimmer or more relaxed fit, the amount of fabric available within the seams will dictate the extent of adjustment. For instance, if you require significant adjustments, there may not be enough fabric within the seams to accommodate the desired changes. In such cases, the tailor would need to utilise fabric from other parts of the garment or source additional fabric that closely matches the original.

The original cut of the sport coat also plays a crucial role in determining the feasibility of alterations. For example, the structure of the jacket's shoulder is intricate, and alterations to this area are notoriously challenging. Adjustments to the shoulders often require significant modifications to the sleeve, armhole, and back of the jacket, which can disrupt the balance and proportions of the entire garment. As a result, shoulder alterations are typically discouraged, and not all tailors are willing to undertake such complex work.

Furthermore, the style of the lapels can be altered, but it is a complex process that may drastically change the original design and integrity of the sport coat. Other aspects of the jacket, such as the button profile and the vent openings, can also be modified but are generally not recommended due to the intricate construction of these features.

In summary, while basic adjustments like suppressing the waist, hemming the pants, and shortening the sleeves are common and relatively easy to perform, more extensive alterations are dependent on the availability of extra fabric and the complexity of the original cut. It is always advisable to consult with a skilled tailor to determine the specific alterations possible for your sport coat, as their expertise will help ensure the desired outcome while preserving the integrity of the garment.

Frequently asked questions